65-75oC on idle...what?

CraigRobbo · 4 Nov 2013 at 10:58

Hey guys.

This thing has been driving me crazy for a while now and i just cannot fathon whats going on.

I have reseated my stock clock (3.5ghz) De-lidded i7 3770k on the water block countless times now using 3 different thermal compounds (stock that came with it, CF3 and another unbranded I had lying around)

I have re bled the system 4 times now and even tried opening up the water block for the CPU to check for air bubbles(there was no bubbles)

Now I have in the loop 2 x GTX660 cards and they run between 28-30oC on idle and have never peaked past 60oC on full load (and overclocked)

Why would I be idling at 75oC and then in the high 90's on full load?

Now I have been doing water cooling for about 6 years now and my other system which is also an I7, with a GTX 660, watercooled chipset and VRMS runs around 35oC on idle.

at first I thought it was the radiator but it builds upto 75oC after about 60 seconds and the rest of the system including the carbs are nice and cool.

The water temp is cool too.

Any ideas?

Craig

Make · 4 Nov 2013 at 11:30

Your CPU is at 60 idle? Sounds like your delid has gone bad.

ubersonic · 4 Nov 2013 at 11:38

That sounds like bad contact to me...

A quick test if you have spare time and TIM would be to replace the IHS and then recheck temps, if their lower it's the contact between the die/waterblock that's the issue.

CraigRobbo · 4 Nov 2013 at 11:49

ubersonic said:
That sounds like bad contact to me...

A quick test if you have spare time and TIM would be to replace the IHS and then recheck temps, if their lower it's the contact between the die/waterblock that's the issue.

I don't have the IHS anymore - We moved house a few week ago and lost it

However if my memory serves me correctly I think I did try this and IIRC it didn't make any difference.

Thanks

Craig

mmj_uk · 4 Nov 2013 at 12:06

Did you remove the socket? I've not delidded before but I assume the die will sit lower than the actual socket without the IHS?

Makhaira · 4 Nov 2013 at 12:25

From what you've described in that the rest of the system and the graphics card are fine from a cooling point of view, it has to be the CPU waterblock, just by elimination.

Bad contact is almost certainly the issue - are you using mounts for a de-lidded chip? Failing that, I'd post in the MM for some kind soul who has also de-lidded to send you their IHS.

CraigRobbo · 4 Nov 2013 at 12:25

mmj_uk said:
Did you remove the socket? I've not delidded before but I assume the die will sit lower than the actual socket without the IHS?

Hello,

Yeah, I bought the EK Post kit and removed the socket so its waterblock direct to DIE.

Craig

CraigRobbo · 4 Nov 2013 at 12:27

Makhaira said:
From what you've described in that the rest of the system and the graphics card are fine from a cooling point of view, it has to be the CPU waterblock, just by elimination.

Bad contact is almost certainly the issue - are you using mounts for a de-lidded chip? Failing that, I'd post in the MM for some kind soul who has also de-lidded to send you their IHS.

Thanks for that, I have reseated countless times so far (so much I could do it with my eyes closed...proberbly)

When I have removed the Block the paste is always spead evenly as expected and there has been no variances in temp each time I tried to reseat (I even tried with no mounts at all and just using my hand to hold the block on again exactly the same result!)

I am starting to fear i have damaged the Die somehow.

ubersonic · 4 Nov 2013 at 12:29

Probably extremely unlikely but you haven't plumbed the CPU block in backwards have you? (water should be going in through the port closest to the center).

CraigRobbo · 4 Nov 2013 at 12:31

ubersonic said:
Probably extremely unlikely but you haven't plumbed the CPU block in backwards have you (water should be going in through the port closest to the center).

I have tried both ways around when I last reseated the CPU block, again differences where very very minimal )a couple of degree either way)

Thanks for the input guys and I hope I can get to the bottom of this.

Craig

Makhaira · 4 Nov 2013 at 12:33

BIOS reset to check you're not forcing a high voltage somehow maybe? I know you're not knowingly overclocking, but looks like we're into "clutching at straws" territory here!

CraigRobbo · 4 Nov 2013 at 12:35

Makhaira said:
BIOS reset to check you're not forcing a high voltage somehow maybe? I know you're not knowingly overclocking, but looks like we're into "clutching at straws" territory here!

I will give that a try, I am running in 'Normal Mode' on my MSI G65 Mobo and not OC mode.

I will reset to defaults just incase. Voltage, that is something I did not think of!

Craig

mmj_uk · 4 Nov 2013 at 14:58

When you opened up the water block did you make sure to put it back together with the water canals facing the correct way? (these I mean)

Not trying to insult your intelligence but **** ups do happen.

CraigRobbo · 4 Nov 2013 at 22:26

Hello, to report.

Adjusting Bios and resetting it did not do anything to the temps.

Having the block Rotated either 0Degrees or 90 degrees made no difference to the temps.

I tried reseating again tonight and really putting some high pressure on the clamps again made no difference.

I have tried the tubing in standard flow direction (inlet being center) and reversed flow direction(inlet on outer side).

Non of the above made enough of a noticeable difference.

I really am starting to think I have diffed the processor.

Before I went WC and De-LID I ran stock cooler with temps in the normal 30's but Since Delidding and WC the problem arisen.

I might have to look for a stock cooler to try and hold it onto the DIE directly and see what results I get.

Thanks for all the help

Craig