8350: closed or open loop?

Fragg

Fragg

Fragg

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Im currently rocking a black venemous x air cooler on a 1100t and through knowing a person who knows a person, I have gotten myself an 8350 out of the factory so is w/o a heatsink.

I never had much success overclocking the 1100t due to being limited by an air cooler and would like to experiment in water cooling.

Ive read of people receiving nice figures of 4.7+ on the 8350 using the h100 and h100i. They are very reasonably priced but I would prefer to be able to say, yes I built that! add a nice coloured coolent and possibly change out bits and pieces in the future.

I was looking at OcUK Tech Lab - V6 Watercooling Kit 120 and it suits me down to the ground. It however, is good bit more expensive and only has a single 120mm rad with a pump and tubing that has a mixed response.
I would swap out parts in the future and would like to know, if this kit would be capable of producing similar figures to the h100/h100i?

I dont want to spend anymore on the kit than necessary and would just like the basics for now.

I only have planned to cool a cpu, although unlikely, this could be subject to change.

Recommendations of alternate loops are greatly accepted

thanks.
 
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http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-041-OE&groupid=962&catid=1532

If you could stretch the extra £20 it would be a great improvement. Should provide much better temps than the h100 with only a 120 rad I think you'll struggle to beat the H100.

I'm not too convinced by the pump but it will be fine for this kit. If you add more rads or a vga block you might want to consider a new pump.

If funds allow always go the open loop way :) Not only is it much more fun you can upgrade at a later date which you wont have the option with a h100
 
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Mynight said:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-041-OE&groupid=962&catid=1532

If you could stretch the extra £20 it would be a great improvement. Should provide much better temps than the h100 with only a 120 rad I think you'll struggle to beat the H100.

I'm not too convinced by the pump but it will be fine for this kit. If you add more rads or a vga block you might want to consider a new pump.
Click to expand...

gee, i missed that one. Thanks!

So do you reckon then I could overclock to 4.6-4.7 and stay within reasonable temperatures?

__

Yeah thanks, I will find the extra £20 somwhere ;) I would really like to play about with it and I would consider the Swiftech mp655 pump in the future
 
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With the 240mm I would almost guarentee it :)

Obviously some chips are not as capable as others but you should be fine:)

If it were me I'd swap out the pump/res for a ek dcp 4.0 and a tube res but you're looking at say £33.98 extra (including the £20 from upgrading to a 240).

I love the pump and its a solid performer with room for expanding later on if you'd like to :)

The 280 has a bigger radiator using 140mm fans which some cases don't accept.

What case do you have?
 
okay thankyou, i will keep that in mind.

I have a haf922 with the large v formula motherboard. There about and inch and half gap between the top of the motherboard and the 200mm fan that is currently at the top of the case.

Sorry my knowledge of how much room I will need is beyond me
 
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youd need about 60mm with fan and rad up top.

Is that 1.5inches from the bottom of the fan thats already there? If so you've only got 38mm to play with :(

Edit: If its the fan that came with the case cooler masters site gives the impression the fan is 30mm height so you've got enough room for that rad and fan set up :)

You could also consider mounting it at the front if its easy to move the HDD cages. With my old antec 300 (much smaller) I ripped the cages out put the rad there and mounted my hard drives in the spare 5.35 bays with bungee cord (thanks to a thread on this site) wiped out the noise of the HDD as well :)

Tape measure :) better safe than sorry.
 
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my mistake.

I have about 2.3cm from the bottom of the 200mm fan to the top of the motherboard.

The 200mm fan is three 3cm in height.
 
Going to be a bit tight then especially with the dimm slots right at the top of that mobo :(

Three choices a thinner rad, consider mounting it in the front or mount one externally.
 
damn, i never thought this through when i first bought all my components two years ago.


Do you think the 240 would still be a squeeze?
Could i mount the rad on the top of the case and have the fans blowing through the mesh between it?

thanks for the help mynight
 
No reason why not. You'd have to cut holes for tubing though.

Easier one you could have the rad inside the case and then fans on top of the mesh. Should keep the rad cleaner as well. They love dust in my experience.

That way you wouldn't have to mod the case at all.

No worries helping myself here as well :) Keep spying parts when I'm searching for dimensions and thinking "ooo I want that" :D

Search "haf envy" on google that will get your creative juices flowing :D
 
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Yeah, or that too :) il have to pick up a couple of dust filters for the case.

So for a final question before i make a purchase tomorrow, for an extra 60p should i go for the 280 or the 240? Id have to mount the rad to the mesh and the fans on top in either situation.

Haha, that is me all too often
 
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Id stick with the 240 at least the mounts are there for it :)

just double check your measurements and plan your loop out on paper before going for it :) You'll find it a lot easier :)

and if you use that res/pump you'll need two free 5.25 bays :)

Double check here tomorrow before you order, someone will probably come along and blow my suggestions out the water with a better option :D
 
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alright, thanks for your help.

Okay, will do :)

i have four free bays, im happy to use a couple up. I let you know how it goes :)
 
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Mynight said:
Look forward to it :)
Click to expand...

i will update later with the temperatures.

The two fans had to sit outside the case as one overlaped the motherboard by about 3mm...meaning i had to cut the mesh to allow for power.

I found two red led 120mm fans lieing about and one, i could attach to the underside of the rad but the other one I plan to take two leds from and replace the stock blue leds to light up the underside of heatsink

I cut the pump out/cpu in pipe a bit short and will have to replace it soon as it is a leakage hazard!!

Positive criticism is greatly accepted, hope you like it

2013-07-08203609.jpg


2013-07-08203528.jpg


2013-07-08203805.jpg
 
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Great color choice fits rather nicely with that motherboard :)

Those fans don't look as out of place as I'd imagined them too. Fits in quite well :)

Only thing that would bug me ascetically is having the return tube going over the cpu block again. Don't get to show of the xspc block goodness.

I look forward to the temps :)

That monster gpu needs to be under water ;) Could fit a 140 or 120 mm rad in the bottom intake there.
 
Thankyou. I specifically chose the clear tubing with the blood red fluid to match the red/black colour scheme i have going in the top of the case.


I am very pleased with the corsair fans OCUK chose actually. They pull a good a mount of air, are quiet, thin and you can change the colour of the ring from blue to red or white to match all colour schemes

You know, that wouldnt be a bad idea, as I cut the tubing to short and turning the rad around would give a lot more slack but im dreading emptying the fluid..

and yeah the xspc block is one of the better that i have seen, hopefully soon i will have red lights under it.
I also plan to put a few red leds inside the xspc pump as i believe it has a clear plastic interior which would light up the fluid in the resevior.

haven't performed a prime95 test yet but i do know i receive roughly 18-20C idle at stock 4ghz.

hahah maybe someday, some nice gold tubing would look well there but thats for another months wages ;)

---

Plexiglass, uchannel and scotch tape arrived this afternoon, hope to get a window installed on the sidepanel over the weekend, replacing the mesh.
 
Haha I know that feeling :( Use your fill port on the bay res to empty it out. Tilt the case forward while you're at it and you should be able to drain the vast majority. Paper towels for the rest of it :)

20C is great :) Especially in this weather I'm rather jealous haha.

xspc blocks work well with leds I'm not the biggest fan of case lighting but I put the ones that came with the block in and I refuse to take it out again now haha.

Look forward to future work :)
 
Nice setup there. Being a CH 5 owner myself unles syou have changed stuff around you have your ram in the wrong slots. You need the ram in both red slots otherwise your only running single channel not duel channel.

Personally I would also remove the single red led fan as it isnt the same specs as the excellent corsairs so could be doing more harm than good.

Also one thing i noticed is that the northbridge can get a bit toasty without any aditional airflow on it. Either add a small fan to blow on it or consider later adding a EK Water Block: EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z like I just have. Its for the newer Z model but fits the older non-Z models perfectly.
 
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