A little Technics project.....

[Smokey McPot]

I just bought a pair of SL1210's for £30.

Anyone got a Service manual? Longshot i know

 

[Smokey McPot]

I like your thinking. Cheers man.

 

[Smokey McPot]

Both are missing on/off switches and one's target light is no longer working, other than that they're working fine .

They came from a cupboard in HMV thanks to my little brother

My plan is to strip them down so I can get to the case and then have it powdercoated in a custom colour, and put them back together again.

I found a parts place inthe states that sells parts for peanuts. Technics got back to me to say they advise I dont do it myself but use a preferred service centre. Pfft.

 

[Smokey McPot]

Just Arrived

 

[Smokey McPot]

They're an old set of stylii i have scuffing about

one has an issue with the audio channel i need to sort out. Bah.

 

[Smokey McPot]

So the bottom case is off, and I have hit a small soldering related problem. Grrrreat.

Heres some pics so you can see the oh so exciting interior of a turntable.

This is the underside of the tonearm housing, where the problems with the soldering as you can see.

One of the decks has an issue with audio only coming from one channel. Having done some research I thought the problem may be related to the RCA connection. Hmm.

 

[Smokey McPot]

So I continued to fiddle, I think I've established that the problem lies with the tone arm not the RCA, which is more expensive than I wanted to pay, but life goes on. Gonna order some parts next week, a new tonearm and RCA cable I think and other sundries.

Some more pics of dismantled parts and what not.

Tonearm and housing

The workings were filthy and the height adjustment mechanism was locked, so i took that to bits, freed it up and cleaned it as best i could. Dont look too bad.

The top shell without the tonearm. oooooh.

Rubber base, inner weight/support and outer shell.

 

[Smokey McPot]

Its all in the plan, depends on what colour finish i choose for the cases though.

I've pretty much decided to fit pitch controls from MK3D's though.

 

[Smokey McPot]

£30?!? You defiantly got a bargain there. You even got some MAW slipmats thrown in, quality!

Yup, unfortunately they've got spindle holes bigger than your grans ladybits. But for that price I'm not complaining.

Progress will be slow for a bit now as im broke and dont get paid for four weeeks :S

 

[Smokey McPot]

Right managed to fix 2nd decks problem of jumping halfway through playing a tune. It turns out when they were serviced the pivot screws on the gimble were too tight preventing free movement of the tonearm, so some dismantling later....

This shows the gimble mechanism that holds the tonearm steady while allowing it to have 2 axis's movement.

I've removed the pivot screws to separate the mechanism and give everything a bit of a clean. The spastic that serviced these for HMV mangled them, all the screws on the underside were either cross threaded or not properly screwed in. Grr :angry:

 

[Smokey McPot]

This is the centre pin that prevents the tonearm moving too far, inside are two buffers either side to stop excessive movement.

I noticed that this one was filthy inside, I unscrewed the motor case cover and vaccuumed it. At some point I'm gonna have take all this stuff out to get the metal case powder coated.

And now it works perfectly. Guess the record

 

[Smokey McPot]

A little update.

I decided today I'd have a crack at removing the click from the pitch slider zero position.

I took the decks to bits, firstly removing the motor cover and disconnecting the pitch from the PCB.

Then I flipped it over and removed the usual 50 million screws. Detached the pitch and took it out...

On the pitch there are 3 screws holding the cover plate over the sliding mechanism, ordinarily you have to do some desoldering, however with some careful jiggery pokery you can take it to bits without that trouble. In the pitch control is a spring and bearing, when this gets to zero position, the bearing locks into a hole in the pitch block.

Removing this stops the lock but still keeps the quartz lock and light mechanism working

Here you can see the bearing and spring. Whilst it was in bits I gave it a clean from all the dust and skank that had accumulated. Excuse the photo, my lense doesn't like closeups.

This it back together the top piece has clips on the underside, its these you bend open to remove the cover, its easy enough, but theres a slight risk of snapping the PCB its soldered to.

There you have it, how to remove the click with no soldering!

 

[Smokey McPot]

Remember this....I got one nearly finished...
So this is how we got to the end

ghetto soldering

final check to make sure everything was re-attached properly

name the tune

just waiting on some new target light bulbs to arrive

the yellow LED doesnt exactly work with the rest of the lights, but ****** are gays.

 

[Smokey McPot]

No idea, not a lot, maybe £80 in parts for both decks. Not really kept a tab on it.

 

[Smokey McPot]

yeah, 6:2

 

[Smokey McPot]

I have a set of 1200's already, and 2 CDJ1000's. The 1210's were something to mess about with.