Adding electronics

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When adding to your electrical circuits, what connections do people prefer? Soldering or crimps. I'm going to plumb my tracker in tomorrow and crimps would be the easiest but I'm concerned they'll be naff.

Also, which circuits do you guys tap in to? I was thinking horn for +ve as its at the front of the bike and easy to get to/hide the tracker and then whatever is easiest for the -ve...
 
When adding to your electrical circuits, what connections do people prefer? Soldering or crimps. I'm going to plumb my tracker in tomorrow and crimps would be the easiest but I'm concerned they'll be naff.

Depends, for tapping into an existing circuit, i use crimps, everything else is soldered.

Also, which circuits do you guys tap in to? I was thinking horn for +ve as its at the front of the bike and easy to get to/hide the tracker and then whatever is easiest for the -ve...

If i need switched power, its to the ignition (ie a dash camera) but if its an always on thing, straight to the battery (sat nav connector, id probably do this for a tracker)
 
For +ve any earth I can get to, and for -ve I prefer to use the brake light or day light running light. Crimps and heat shrink are my preferred method, I'm no good with solder.
 
I went with connecting it directly to the battery in the end as Dockie recommended. I was hoping that with a good charge the internal battery would keep it running between rides but it went from 50-0% in around 12 hours.
Connected it up using the circular crimp connectors through the terminal bolts, couldn't have been easier really!
 
crimps tend to always come off for me,maybe if you had a good crimper they wouldn't

you can also get those with a metal plate that slides down and squishes the wires,there in a plastic block,forget what they are called

but for neatness and longevity I think solder and heatshrink is the best/neatest job
 
I use choccy blocks and insulation tape and never had issue although stuff like this is hidden under the seat and well protected from the elements.
I wouldn't make a permanent live to the battery though, just put a relay in and trigger it from the horn.
 
they use crimps so you can remove things like indicators ect,nothing wrong with a soldered joint imo

Nothing prevents them soldering the connectors on, yet they do not do it. Precisely for the same reasons, solder is prone to cracking and breaking in the demands of a moving vehicle.
 
they use crimps so you can remove things like indicators ect,nothing wrong with a soldered joint imo

they can crack with vibration, but a big things is most people suck at soldering especially wire joints :p

a lot of people end up making cold joints etc, crimps are long lasting and very effective you can even get waterproof ones that you can reinforce with some adhesive heat shrink if you want to be extra cautious.
 
Nothing prevents them soldering the connectors on, yet they do not do it. Precisely for the same reasons, solder is prone to cracking and breaking in the demands of a moving vehicle.

also it takes more man time.

crimps are very quick and easy in a production environment, soldering wires can be a pain.
 
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