Adjusting Chain Tension - Sticking Point

BennyC

BennyC

BennyC

Soldato
Joined
25 Sep 2006
Posts
14,421
I tried to adjust the tension on my chain yesterday as it was quite slack. I realised that my adjuster blocks did have a marker in the middle which was a bonus! (Had thought they didn't as they are differen either side)

However just when I thought I had it right I would tighten it all up give the rear wheel a spin and find that there was a spot where the chain tension would increase quite tight and stop the rear wheel spinning freely. If I kept turning the wheel past this point the tension would ease and the chain relax to a healthy level of movement. What could be causing this?

I ended up leaving it still fairly slack as I didn't want to put unnecessary tension on the chain.

Thanks,

BennyC
 
bullit in head said:
I would say the chain is toast. you dont say how old it is, are the sprockets hooked in any way and have you done anywork on the sprockets recently.

bullit
Click to expand...

Bought the bike 2 months ago, so it was 'serviced' very poorly, by the dealer I bought from.

The rear sprocket doesn't look like it's done very many miles, can't say about the front one as everything was covered in crap when I bought it.

I was thinking that it's not the aligntment as the tension should stay the same the whole way around.

Am I right in that chain & sprockets should be changed together?

Bike is a 05 ZX6R on just over 21,000 miles.
 
Last edited:
Am I right in that chain & sprockets should be changed together?
Click to expand...

it is generally agreed that this is correct. however I do it on a case by case basis. mainly as I have changed just the parts and componants that I see worn, eg the front sprocket lasts about 10 k but the chain will last 20k.

you can test the chain to see if there are tight spots or worn spots, using a caliper or vernier meassure the link distance the book should tell you what is acceptable or not, do it over several points as is sounds if there could be variable wear in your chain.


bullit
 
Thanks,

Looks like chain & sprockets is about £100ish. There's a local garage to me that come highly recommended that I might ask to have a look at it.
 
Is the chain dirty? Give it a good clean down with wd40 and a cloth then finish off with some chain lube.

The blocks should both have a line in the middle, if one doesnt then id suggest its on the wrong way round just. Pop the rear axle out and make sure theyre both on right with the line going vertically...!

my wheel will spin a few full rotations after spinning with the chain on. Without the chain itll spin and spin until you stop it - perhaps you should slack your chain right off and see if the wheels spinning OK without it to rule out bearings.
 
bullit in head said:
dont use wd40.... it' eats the x or o rings in the chain, as it's a petrolium distilate it literally melts the rubber.


bullit
Click to expand...


No it doesn't, this is yet another internet myth. The O/X rings are made from nitrile rubber which has excellent resistance to hydrocarbons (which is why oil seals are made from the same stuff).
 
BennyC said:
Thanks,

Looks like chain & sprockets is about £100ish. There's a local garage to me that come highly recommended that I might ask to have a look at it.
Click to expand...

You dont particularly need a highly reccomended garage, anywhere will change a chain + sprocket set for you no problem, my local tyre place even does it.:)
 
Dogbreath said:
No it doesn't, this is yet another internet myth. The O/X rings are made from nitrile rubber which has excellent resistance to hydrocarbons (which is why oil seals are made from the same stuff).
Click to expand...

Using WD40 on ANY form of bike chain, push bike or motorbike is a bad idea.

Use a proper de greasing agent, and a correct spec bike lube.
 
It depends how bad the tight spot is. Normally chain tension is set to the tightest point "providing the uneven stretch isn't too bad". Chains can and do stretch unevenly, it just depends by how much. If its severe and stops the the wheel from rotating or if you have any seized links these can be freed by cleaning and lubricating but you'll probably have permanent tight spot at that point. If you suspect the chain has had it, try lifting/ pulling the chain away from the rear sprocket, if comes away more than a few mm, then the links have stretched and they won't be sitting at the botton between the teeth of the sprocket, you'll probably see deformation or hooking of the teeth if this is the case. If it were me, I'd replace the chain and sprockets.
 
I checked the bearings this morning in the rear wheel. It spins freely when the chain is lifted off the sprocket. I replaced the chain on the sprocket, obviously in a different place. The tight spot was still evident but not as bad. Though for peace of mind I'll probably replace them due to the sheer state they were in when I bought the bike, absolutely filthy.

There's no hooking etc, just a neglected chain it would seem.
 
A local recommended garage quoted me £160 for a C&S kit (x-ring) chain. Sourced the same thing on line for £115 including VAT & delivery. Quoted a further £45 for fitting, which is reasonable I guess if you weren't up for the task yourself.

I've a friend who's a mechanic I'm getting to check it is my C&S that need replacing which I'll chuck £20 for helping.

£200 for chain & sprockets made me :eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom