Advice on adding internal siren to Honeywell alarm

azibux1

azibux1

azibux1

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Hi all

I have a Honeywell Intellisense ST800L+ and have ordered a Pyronix Twin Alert to add to it.

Anyone got experience with alarms that could maybe point me in the right directions re the connections please? I'm a bit unsure (although I get the general idea), just don't want to blow / overload anything.

One pic of the panel below, can post up more pics of the wiring and diagram etc if someone comes back to say they don't mind assisting :)

The twin alert acts as a speaker (to repeat keypad tones) and a siren... I think I'm right in saying it can be wired in parallel to the existing siren outside, but not 100% on which connections they are on the panel and where to get power from (manual says it needs to be AC driven speaker)

Thanks! :)

VZ2ULGhl.jpg
 
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So below is the relevant snippet from the Honeywell manual and also the pyronix manual. It seems to have individual connections for tamper, siren, speaker and power?

The power however is marked as aux power, but the honeywell manual says the 'aux power' on the board of the panel is for DC, whereas the diagram for the speaker part of the manual says 'AC driven'... so I don't think I can / want to be connecting the aux power on the pyronix to the aux power on the panel... as one is DC and the other is AC

nf5xNMY.png

http://imgur.com/nf5xNMY

UrZPgFi.png

http://imgur.com/UrZPgFi

Not too fussed if the tamper feature for the internal siren doesn't work, as it is all internal anywhere so nobody will mess with the wires... As long as if somebody tampers with the EXTERNAL siren, the tamper will still set the alarm off and won't be any way affected by the addition of the pyronix.

Main aim is to have the pyronix sound when the alarm sounds. Having it copy the keypad tones (speaker function) is just a bonus

Any advice would be much appreciated! :)
 
12+ = Aux +
12- = Aux -
BA = S -
SPK is the only one I'm not 100% sure on.

Tamper just goes in with your tamper loop (probs to the right of connections on your photo)
 
ZG002 said:
12+ = Aux +
12- = Aux -
BA = S -
SPK is the only one I'm not 100% sure on.

Tamper just goes in with your tamper loop (probs to the right of connections on your photo)
Click to expand...

Thanks very much

Tamper is one whole loop round the entire setup then?

SPK is not a major issue it it doesn't work, as the keypad has its own tones anyway. Would it do any harm to put SPK to the speaker+ to see if it works?

Also I believe I'm correct in saying that the tamper would be optional?

Can't test yet as it is being delivered tomorrow :)
 
The tamper is just a continuity loop, the tamper switches are normally closed until tampered with where they become open and alarm.
Because of this they have to be wired in series. It is also optional to which ones you want wired into that providing the circuit is a closed loop in normal conditions.

I would try the SPK to ext SPK - first as you will either put no voltage on it or it would work. Ideally you need a multimeter to check the voltages on that.
 
Great thanks!

I have a multimeter, so just put one to ground and one to ext- and then ext+ and see what readings I get?

Maybe won't get anything though until a key at the keypad is actually pressed?
 
You can check the output voltage from the Honeywell but by going between ext- & + you should get the 12V required when the keypad is depressed.
You already have the 12v supply to the twin alarm via the aux- & aux+
You then have the negative switched for the siren via S-
I would take a good punt on the speaker needing a switched negative as well from ext SPK -
(See install instructions ademco & dsc requiring a negative 12v for speaker)

Where a multimeter will come in handy is if the 12v + isn't linked somehow, if this is the case then you'd need to link the + side together. I wouldn't attempt this until you've tried the above though.
 
OK

Will give the below a go then when it arrives

Pyronix -> Honeywell

12+ = Aux +
12- = Aux -
BA = S -

Then test. Then try adding in the SPK = EXT- (just marked as speaker minus on the actual PCB pic) and see how it goes and report back

Have I understood correctly?

Thanks for the help, appreciate it! :)
 
Actually, looking at it again you may only get a 12v between aux- & + only when the keypad is depressed. So you won't have a constant 12v to the twin alarm.

When keypad depressed AUX - & + give 12v to power speaker.
When alarm is off negative S- is switched and you have 12v between AUX+ and S-

So try either Speaker - to SPK if no luck get your multimeter and test between 12v - &+ on the twin alarm, do you get 12v all the time or only when the keys are pressed. If it's keys only then link the 12v- to the SPK. If neither work come back on here!

Hope I've not confused you!
 
mattyy said:
Actually, looking at it again you may only get a 12v between aux- & + only when the keypad is depressed. So you won't have a constant 12v to the twin alarm.

When keypad depressed AUX - & + give 12v to power speaker.
When alarm is off negative S- is switched and you have 12v between AUX+ and S-

So try either Speaker - to SPK if no luck get your multimeter and test between 12v - &+ on the twin alarm, do you get 12v all the time or only when the keys are pressed. If it's keys only then link the 12v- to the SPK. If neither work come back on here!

Hope I've not confused you!
Click to expand...

A little bit confused if I'm honest haha

Would you mind please writing it out with pyronix -> honeywell as we did earlier? The connections I should try first, then what I should check and rewire if necessary? If you don't mind it would be a great help

Thanks
 
Ok
First try this

Honeywell to Pyronix
AUX+ to 12V+
AUX- to 12V-
S- to BA
Speaker - to SPK

This can be tested by testing between AUX+ and Speaker- on the Honeywell with the key pressed. Voltage here would indicate the correct connections.
If no voltage present test between the AUX+ and AUX- with NO keys pressed - is there 12V present?
If not do the same but with a key pressed to enable the speaker and note if you have voltage. If you do then the AUX- is the switched negative for the speaker. In this situation you can link 12V and SPK on the Pryonix.

If you still have no luck jump back on here and let me know.
 
Perfect, thanks!

Also one small question, I've never really done any 'work' on the alarm apart from going into engineers mode and changing the rechargeable battery in the panel which had failed and also changed a fuse once (can't remember how it blew).

Do I need to turn anything off? Or is it safe for the system for me to just go into engineers mode and start connecting wires as is?

Don't really want to turn anything off unnecessarily in fear of losing the programming

Thanks :)
 
Personally I would make your connections at the Pyronix end first and then at the Honeywell.
Seeing as you're only dealing with 12V here it will be fine without turning off.
I see there are already connections on the AUX outputs so just be weary that the alarm may go off when you do those connections and be careful not to get those mixed up if they pop out.

As for the tamper, if you choose to add the Pyronix into that loop then obviously the alarm will go off when you break that. If you are going to leave it as is then no alterations are required :)
 
mattyy said:
Personally I would make your connections at the Pyronix end first and then at the Honeywell.
Seeing as you're only dealing with 12V here it will be fine without turning off.
I see there are already connections on the AUX outputs so just be weary that the alarm may go off when you do those connections and be careful not to get those mixed up if they pop out.

As for the tamper, if you choose to add the Pyronix into that loop then obviously the alarm will go off when you break that. If you are going to leave it as is then no alterations are required :)
Click to expand...

Great thanks for the advice!

Will put it into engineers mode so hopefully won't sound any alarms, but will see how it goes

Will report back probably tomorrow evening :)
 
Indeed! More helpful than a dedicated alarm section on a DIY forum I posted in lol

Mini review of the pyronix if anyone is interested:

To be honest in speaker function it is a bit loud even at the lowest settings. But that wasn't my reason for purchasing it anyway, I really wanted it as a siren for which it is perfect. So I may end up disconnecting the speaker wire.

Very nice build quality and reasonbly discreet looking too!

My panel has an individual volume control of it's own for the speaker, but I think it isn't working as I don't have a + and - from the panel, I've only connected the minus as the power is coming from the auxiliary power (turning the volume control on the panel doesn't seem to have any effect)
 
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