Advice on pump and res for watercooling system in T900 case

[Deleted member 6068]

I have recently returnd to gaming after a long time away and have upgraded a system i purchased of a second hand sight and have now got the system in my sig with a few upgrades yet to come including new gpu and watercooling loop

i have currently purchased the monoblock for my motherboard and cpu the

EK Water Blocks EK-Quantum Momentum² ROG Maximus Z790 Hero D-RGB Monoblock - Plexi​

EK Water Blocks EK-Quantum Momentum² ROG Maximus Z790 Hero D-RGB Monoblock - Plexi

Order EK Water Blocks EK-Quantum Momentum² ROG Maximus Z790 Hero D-RGB Monoblock - Plexi now online and benefit from fast delivery.

www.overclockers.co.uk

motherboard is a ASUS maximus rog z690 hero

case is Thermaltake tower 900 black

Thermaltake The Tower 900 Super Tower / Showcase

Order Thermaltake The Tower 900 Super Tower / Showcase now online and benefit from fast delivery.

www.overclockers.co.uk

the planned radiator is going to be an

Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 560mm radiator​

Technical specifications:
Material internal: Mostly copper
Material casing: Side panels steel, threads brass, copper chambers
Colour: Black
Dimensions (LxWxH): 607 x 144 x 86mm Radiator size: 4x140mm
Connection threads: 6x1/4“
Outlet Connection threads: 1x1/4“
Mounting thread size: M3
Pressure tested: 1.5bar
Weight:3,448kg


from overlockers as part of a b grade sale but everything seems opt be on order apart from one plate which i don't think is need ed and is not displayed in the instructions so beats me as its complete unless the z690 and z790 have a different mounting for the lcd holder as everything is included apart from this one part that's net even in the instructions so cheers overlockers for a great discount of about £50

anyway i am planning on fitting one side of the case with a thick 560 radiator that's very thick over 60 mill thick with large slow fans for quite gaming

problem is with all the pump and res combo's i have no clue which to get i don't really need a big res as the radiator is going to hold a lot of water with its size and thickness but i would prefer the larger size as a bigger water buffer for extended periods of vr gaming as i will be adding the same water loop with a radiator on the opposite side to cool the graphics at a later date so there wioll be two of the same apart from one cooling the cpu and the other the gpu

so could anyone knowing the parts i have recommend a good decent res and pump combo that would be top notch for the system and reliability is key with performance second both if possible that's good to cool a high spec rig

also i have not decided on flexy tubing or hard line if i go hard line i was going to go with fittings for bends as i don't want to spend loads on tubing and getting the bends right on my first attempted to fittings would need to accommodate both flexi and hard line if possible, if any one could recommend fittings that could do both ?



thanks

Steve

 

[hiroofheroes]

The main benefit of a larger reservoir is it can make filling the loop a lot quicker. The additional water volume may slow temperature increase a little, but you end up and the same temperature anyway.

You may also want to think about what coolant you are going to use before considering tube or reservoir material as some may stain or cloud some materials.

Personally I think it's worth going for borosilicate as it's going to remain clear over the long term and is easy to clean.

In terms of fittings you'll need to decide on whether you go hard line or soft tubing, fittings tend to be for one or the other, but you can have both hard and soft tubing in the sand loop, but the appropriate fittings need to be used for the appropriate tubing type.

My personal preference is EPDM soft tubing, and you can cover with cable sleeving if you want it more aesthetically pleasing.

Hard tubing is less forgiving, and makes replacing individual components a bit if a pain - and the cost of fittings adds up quickly if you're using them rather than bending tubes.

My main piece of advise though would be to think about expandability and maintenance in advance and what your drain, fill and bleed routine would look like.

In terms of real world performance other than the radiator selection you're not going to see a huge difference in temperatures whatever components you choose, and it's really all about the look you are going for, and how practical you want it to be.

 

[Deleted member 6068]

Hi hiroofheroes and thanks for the advice i was hoping their was fittings for both but if not as you say for maintenance i do think its going to be better going soft tubing nothing like having to take a complete water colling setup apart just to take a motherboard out or cpu its bad enough with soft tubing , i did have a watercooling setup years ago so have some idea but have been away for so long i just need a few helpful pointers the rad is copper and the block is nickel as far as the specs say so will have to use some form of additive to stop corrosion water coolant will be my last selection was thinking about the GoChiller Graphene Coolant reviewed on another populer youtube site but i need ot look into that further one is premix and the other is additive may go down the additive as the premix is $41 per per litre lol

what would be cool is seeing if the two side glass panels could be used to mount fill side panels reservoir but looking at the price of them that's not going to happen but would look nice and give quite a bit of coolant to warm up as a large buffer.

 

[xybp9]

imho just go for aqua computer ultitube d5 - their glass reservoirs are miles ahead of competition

 

[Deleted member 6068]

xybp9 i have just taken a look at the pump you suggested and its the one i had my eye on at the moment i have a radiator rad combo with 4 140 fans onside and the slandered 3 120 fans on the rad on the other push pull plus the alpha cool monsta 560 80mm rad, with 4 phantek 1800 fans 1.4cfm and its getting good flow but cause i used screw drivers to plug the tubes while filling it. i rubbed some inner coating off the tube and it got stuck in my Monoblock in the fins so need to clean it out by flushing opposite direction and the flow will hopefully unclog it so i will prob save up for the pump you suggested and install that and flush at the same time . i might just try getting mains line blow through it with a couple hose line adaptors then give it a good flush with distilled reverse osmosis water plus change the pump over take the 360 pump and rad out and save for another monsta as at full load for an hour and half at 45watt cpu load it didnt get above 900 rpm on fans and cpu package never went much above 80, VRM temps where nice max around 65 with cinebench 23. but with occt runing as well it can get to about 70 on the vrm's pulling 300 watts according to hardware monitor ( i know its not going to equate to what temps and heat output lower spec vrms would put out though ) so thats 450w plus 300w vrm probably 40 to 80 vrm watts of heat if that going into it and the temps look good for little increase in fan speed , running no load it runs about 25 to 30 no load vrm's ae roughly in the 30 to 40's.

so hopefully next year late on i will have a few more things upgraded another alpha cool monsta to replace the rad pump combo another power supply to upgrade my 750w and then finally rtx 4090 with a water block installed to complete the VR sim rig i always wanted since the voodoo 2 days would love a 3dfx sticker set or a professionally painted 3dfx nvidia design all over the case since their the same company now as they bought 3dfx out

another thing how tight do you tighten the cpu mount for a ek monoblock for the z690/790 hero ? i have tightened them till they screeched at me which was very tight with the thermalright cpu mount installed as i was worried i would not get good contact. good thing about monoblocs is there level out over a wider area and mounted by different mount points so you do get good flush mount. but take a bit of lining up

and also can you get a direct Die kit for the monoblocs ? wouldn't mind another 10 to 20 c drop and was used to direct die from the good ole days just make sure everything is flat and don't tighten one corner more than another cracking the corners off was very easy to do and i did crack a cpu once that way and had to purchase an new one silly AMD mounts at the time ( flat head screwdriver to try prize the metal spring clip over the socket latch ) they needs some right pressure and any lop side install cracked them easy.

also currently hoping to find a good 7900gt laptop for windows 98 xp retro gaming ( unreal tournament quake 3 arena mainly few more recent 98 and xp only games ) or maybe an nvidia go 8600 would prefer 7900 there a lot faster with little disadvantage not been directx 10

any thanks for listening will hopefully update when pump gets installed which will be the next thing to do

 

[SpudMaster]

No point wasting money on premixed coolants. I just use deionised water from Asda, about £2.50 for 5 litres and a few drops of Mayhems Hades+ and Inhibitor+

 

[Deleted member 6068]

i have a reverse osmosis water maker that goes down to about 10 to 15 parts per million then i have an electric distiller from amazon which gets it down to 0 to 4 parts per million so yea don't wont waste buying expensive water i can already make lol made about 3 gallon and have now installed a water in and out temp probs and a flow meter which shows my pump flows from 6l/m to 16l/m si this barrow rad pump combo is really good for flow rates its ment to be used as a AIO with your own block i just added the alpha cool to the loop and hopefully get another with a new pump . but just the barrow 360 rad pump combo has impressed me probably better than most AIO on the market given the pump seems to be really good its much better than the kraken x53 i took out.

did a few more tests for an hour an half with OCCT and Cinebench 23 last night and temps for coolant went up to 28 from 21-22 cpu cores from 25 to 30 went up to 70 to 80 cpu package at 80 to 90 but mostly 80 to 85 with a total wattage on cpu of around 470w constant current draw fans went to about 800- 900rpm out of the 1800 limit which was abit loud but not as loud as some coolers cooling the amount of heat that was with fans on standard i didnt try full speed long enough o get a good idea of temps but water stayed about 3c below 10 c delta so full speed should be a few more degrees better.

i didnt really put any water addative in it but i did get black pipes so no light gets in apart from the monoblock as it passes though.

thanks

 

[flea.rider]

deionised water silver coil .. never had a problem :

 

[Deleted member 6068]

deionised water silver coil .. never had a problem :

flea.rider silver coil ? where do you get a silver coil and whats the science behind it ? obviously i will go have a look though

just nipped out to look and its what i thought it was silver and bacteria don't get along very well good idea will try to find a place that's sells silver coils and pop one in the loop thanks for the advice flea.loop should keep the water clean of gung build up

 

[SirConfused]

I got a couple of coils from OcUK, but that was many, many years ago now... Looks like they don't sell them any more unfortunately. Anecdotal evidence only, but I forgot to stick mine back in after some loop maintenance many years ago and within a few weeks I had stuff growing in the loop.

Probably because I dropped something in the res during maintenance or an equially stupid answer, but I've never had a problem since with the coil in!

 

[Deleted member 6068]

Certainly! Here's the revised text with the added clarification:

Oh yeah, I have a regret. I forgot to rinse a few things out, and I think they got stuck in the block. Hopefully, rinsing it the other way might clear it. I dipped the tip of my screwdriver to pop a bubble that had formed over the hole. It was running around the hole, not into it, so I popped the bubble with a metal-tipped screwdriver with a slight rust problem on the end. Then, I realized what I had done to my pure, nice, clean water.

Reflushing it is no problem, but the pump is a nightmare to get running. I have to fill the loop up as much as possible with it on its side and squish the tubes a bit to get the water to go around to the block. So, refilling it is what I'm not looking forward to, but the system as a whole is running within what is respectable for 470 watts. I just wish I could gather the courage to delid and go direct die for another 10-15 degrees drop. It's not a good clocker, as far as I know. The ASUS automatic AI overclocker tries to push it to 6100 single core and 5.8 to 5.8 all cores, shoving 1.5 volts, sometimes more, through it, and it crashes under load and coming out of load. So, I've left the CPU at stock for now.

I'm trying to get the Corsair 2x32 CAS DDR5 timings better, as I can't overclock to 6600 or 6800 on memory without memory failing. It's at stock 6400 with 1.5 volts to get stable with tight timings. I'm using a Corsair single-fan DDR cooler on them. They reach about 51 to 52 at max load but idle at 34 to 38. Under load and games, anywhere from 42 to 52, depending.

I really wish I could get 6600 or 6800 with stock timings of 32-40-40-40 as they're not bad timings for the speed and size. I can get another 3000 to 5000 on the bandwidth from 29.2 at standard XMP. But with extreme XMP, I can get as high as 34000 nearly. If I don't enable XMP, I get bog-standard 4800 with very lazy loose timings. I've been watching Buildzoid, but I cannot get anywhere near what he gets. I run MEMTEST, OCCT memory and CPU, plus AIDA64 Extreme CPU and memory, and 3DMark, and also Cinebench all at the same time. If there are any faults, AIDA64 Extreme stress test fails. OCCT is a good error test too that comes in second, and MemTest has gone fine while other programs failed, so I don't know about that as it has thrown errors up on its own.

This is how I got my temps by running loads of apps. I do have hyperthreading disabled for X-Plane, as every time I enable and disable it, I can get a very big jump in frame rate, probably 2 to 5 at high detail low fps, around 30-40, and up to 40 fps if I drop the details down at low detail high fps settings. So that's a big jump, it's about 10 percent at least, sometimes more.