AIO recommendations for 5950x

gsf600y said:
Thanks, having a read of that link now.
Not sure why images not displaying...put links there now too.

"block any openings not covered by intake fans so air they push into case cannot loop around "
Do you mean block any openings on the front, not covered by fans, to stop the fans immediately blowing air back out again?
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I see them now.

Yes, so air can't loop around.

Difference between 360mm and 280mm radiators is minimal. There's often more difference in heat transfer from base into waterblock than from radiator to air. ;)

My Enthoo Luxe White is air cooled. The Phanteks case thread linked below with lots of knowledgeable and helpful owners.
https://www.overclock.net/threads/o...lovers-owners.1418637/page-1054#post-28671449
 
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So, the 420mm Arctic Liquid Freezer II arrived.....turns out it does fit inside the Enthoo Luxe case :)

Phew.
I think I'll even squeeze 2 or 3 fans pushing air through and out as well - currently got the 3 above pulling through and out.

[Note, that's still the old motherboard and heatsink. Not had chance to put new MB and 5950x in - awaiting RAM and thermal paste.
The pump is just in mid-air currently.]

Fans seem good - certainly can't hear them over the other fans.

Thanks for advice all.
 
Space Monkey said:
Can the fans be replaced on this cooler, aren't some of the cables inside the tube sleeving?
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I believe the cable that runs down the sleeve is just like an extention cable and that the fans just have a short cable that plugs into this so swapping the fans shouldn't be an issue.
 
Joxeon said:
I believe the cable that runs down the sleeve is just like an extention cable and that the fans just have a short cable that plugs into this so swapping the fans shouldn't be an issue.
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Yep, correct. You can easily replace.

The PST fan daisy chaining though is a great idea. Up to 5 fans, just 1 cable effectively.
 
Re the fan daisy chaining
Will power draw become an issue adding more fans?
I mean it is already powering 3 fans and a pump from 1 fan header
 
ANDARIAL said:
Re the fan daisy chaining
Will power draw become an issue adding more fans?
I mean it is already powering 3 fans and a pump from 1 fan header
Click to expand...

Most fan headers are 2A these days. Just check what they draw before you go daisy chaining.
 
Gee said:
Most fan headers are 2A these days. Just check what they draw before you go daisy chaining.
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I got the artic ii 360 and was concerned when it powers on 3 fans and a pump from the 1 cpu fan header.Been running fine since june though
 
Just remember if you're putting it on the pump header, you'll need to disable the check for CPU_FAN in the BIOS, else you'll get a warning every time you boot up.
 
gsf600y said:
Ah, thanks for the tip. That would have confused me for a bit :D
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Pleasure. Had a few people mention similar issues on the Underclockers UK Discord. Probably worth keeping it in the CPU_FAN header though as I'm not sure if you'll get error reporting through the AIO/PUMP header.
 
Finally got the new gear built. 5950x + Asus Crossfire VIII Hero.

So, plugging the Arctic into the AIO_PUMP header is not a great idea it turns out. The pump fan, AND all 3 rad fans run at 100%, all the time.
Ideally, I'd plug the pump back into AIO_PUMP, but I can't split the fans onto the CPU_FAN header yet, as I'll need a new extension cable I think.

I've now plugged it all into the CPU_FAN header instead, so I can apply a fan profile. Much quieter.

Temps about 32 on idle. Went up to about 60 whilst gaming.
 
For anybody else that's planning to fit the Arctic 420mm radiator to a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, I wouldn't recommend it. The radiator is thicker than the standard size was when the case was designed/manufactured. This means that push/pull or push isn't really possible. The bottom of the fans crush the 4+4 CPU connectors on my AMD motherboard.

I fitted the radiator and fans to the top panel and then fitted the top panel back into the case. The case screw that connects the top panel to the rear panel, closest to the motherboard, was about 5mm out of alignment. I had to force the case's top panel down which is putting pressure on the 4+4 connectors.

Everything is working, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Perhaps look for a 420mm AIO that's a standard thickness.
 
Interesting.

I've only got 3 fans pulling, and none pulling - had no issue fitting and didn't have to force anything in.
I don't know if we've got different versions of the Enthoo Luxe (I think there might have been a later revision), but I didn't have to unscrew the top panel to fit mine. Radiator I put in from below, and fans all dropped in from above.

Mine has been working absolutely brilliantly. Temps sat about 30 degrees when idle.
I did think I'd be able to connect another 2 fans underneath the rad, pushing, but haven't needed to.

Edit:
Looking at the photo I took before (with old motherboard), I think there's room for 2 fans underneath. I'll check the new motherboard though....
Edit 2: Yeah....it would be tight.... I measured 25mm between motherboard edge, and bottom of rad. And the Phanteks 120mm fans are 25mm. Where the 4-pin connector is, like you say the clip sticks out from the top of the motherboard, so no chance fitting a 25mm fan at that end.
I don't know if there are any slimmer fans out there.
 
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I had to take the top panel off to remove the front drive cage, so it seemed sensible to fit the fans and radiator before replacing the top panel. That allowed me to fit the radiator without removing the motherboard and other components. There's no way I'd have been able to refit the motherboard with the radiator and fans already in position.

I have six fans fitted as push/pull.

I'm not entirely happy with the CPU mounting and temperatures seem a little high (3700x = 75°C @ 4.3ghz all core overclock). I'm waiting for Arctic to send out the Rev.4 version of the mounting kit and then I'll try again.

To be honest, I wish I'd done a bit more research and realised the radiator was thicker than standard. I'd previously had a 12cm Corsair AIO fitted in the top left to cool a Radeon 290X without any issues and I'd assumed this would just be the same but longer. It isn't.

I'm tempted to cut off the clips on the 4+4 power connectors to relieve the pressure. My PSU is fully modular so, if I've got some spare cables, it shouldn't be a problem.

IMG-20210411-WA0001.jpg
 
Ah, yes, I see - yeah, I'd stripped out the upper drive cage already. I'd forgot that.

Yeah might be worth cutting that clip off - those cables tend to be reasonably snug/tight fit, so I doubt they'd fall out accidentally.
Probably better than having any pressure applied to the connector on the motherboard....last thing you want is those solder joints failing/breaking or something.

Either that or remove the push fan nearest the back of the case. You might find it makes little to no difference to temps.
 
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