Air bubbles in monoblock

Bartacus

Bartacus

Bartacus

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30 Dec 2017
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Any advice for getting the air bubbles out of a monoblock. I've spent all day running the loop trying to get them out. Gentle shakes, running the loop with the pc faced on all sides tilted & flat. Changing the rpm of the pump at alternate levels. Nothing seems to work. These air bubbles are so stubborn, not moved a micro mm.

This is a new build & I'm using a rampage vi extreme ek monoblock & enermax neo changer pump/res combo. What kind of negative affect would leaving the air bubbles in have ?
 
I've been on the google exploration. I've come across posts of people saying to put soap/dish washing liquid into the loop. Like 2-3 drops of it. Apparently it helps to get stubborn air bubbles out. I thought doing such thing would turn the loop into a bubble bath foam party... but hey what do I know, this is my first custom loop. Can anybody shed some knowledge on this practice. Why it may be a good idea or a bad idea. What type to use, Fairy washing up liquid or will any do, what evers in the cupboard. I've got this far with my new pc build, but I don't wanna **** it up or back pedal, yet I want those pesky bubbles out of my monoblock.
 
Just keep moving the computer around to get it to shift, I know what you mean they are a pain these mono blocks, I have a desk pc so I have a bigger problem with them !

I don't suggest putting washing liquid in it, in fact DON'T DO IT
 
I've spent 8 hours today moving the computer around. I got the thermaltake 900 case so it's no easy task either. It's like a build up of tiny air bubbles near the centre of the block. They will not budge at all. So I'm not even feeling any hope that I'm getting any where. These monoblocks really are a pain. I'll stay clear of the washing liquid idea then.
 
Run the rig with the cap off the res and let it heat it up, the loop will bleed itself over a day or two then top up as needed.
 
They will go in time mate don’t panic... they tend to show where the plastic shaping is on he inlet but has no effect on the flow over the block.

Sometimes it’s a few weeks before it’s all vanished but keep running the pump on a high setting and open the full port or top of res.
 
Well I've just made the situation worse. I used the tube pinch method to create some pressure flow. Instead of moving the air pockets I've just created loads more in the block Grrrr lol.

Yeah Smffy I got clusters of tiny air bubbles around the block centre edges, near the inlet. All those nooks & crannies the monoblock makes with it's weird shaping is air bubble paradise.

I'm rather fed up now & would like to start wiring everything up so I can boot for the first time before my scan insurance runs out on my cpu.

So to clarify I shouldn't worry about the trapped air...I can get on with the build. Even if these tiny air bubbles are the type that don't vibrate let alone move...time will take care of them in a few weeks ?
 
Pinching the tubing won't "create" more air bubbles unless your pump is sucking air.

Fill port open, cycle pump on/off a few times to get things moving then leave loop running overnight. By the morning the majority of bubbles should be either in the reservoir or already gone through the fill port. For really stubborn ones close up the fill port, and tilt around until the bubbles are in a better area (straight tube or reservoir) then open the fill port again and let it run. If bubbles aren't going straight out the fill port (coolant level dropping as bubbles leave) let them gather up wherever they do naturally and then carefully tilt them out through the fill port.
 
It would be great if the bubbles in my monoblock were the kind that moved. These blighters won't wobble, vibrate, nothing. I've had my pc upside down, side to side, on it's back, on it's front, lil shake here, lil shake there. Still not so much of a twitch off the bubbles. If they were the moving type I could work with them. Sadly I just wanna shoot them with my foot but that would be costly lol
 
Not at the stage of temps. So I wouldn't know. Still have to connect more hardware & wire everything up. Wanted to be satisfied with my loop before I went ahead.
I gave my rad a rinse with distilled water before installation. Then I flushed the loop twice with distilled water. Then I added XSPC EC6 blue uv coolant. (I know a lot advise distilled water to run the loop)
They are definitely air bubbles, mostly micro bubbles. Seem to have a lot of them in the block. I've seen many posts of others going crazy because they cannot get rid of 1 air bubble from their block. I have bloody loads in my monoblock in comparison to 1. Which is why I'm worried before continuing my build.

I'm going to leave the pump running at full throttle with the reservoir cap off or loose for a few more hours. If there's no difference & the air bubbles are still sticking to their same spot. I'm just going to go ahead & continue the build tomorrow & pretend they are not there. Spent a few days on this stage already.
 
Bartacus said:
Not at the stage of temps. So I wouldn't know. Still have to connect more hardware & wire everything up. Wanted to be satisfied with my loop before I went ahead.
I gave my rad a rinse with distilled water before installation. Then I flushed the loop twice with distilled water. Then I added XSPC EC6 blue uv coolant. (I know a lot advise distilled water to run the loop)
They are definitely air bubbles, mostly micro bubbles. Seem to have a lot of them in the block. I've seen many posts of others going crazy because they cannot get rid of 1 air bubble from their block. I have bloody loads in my monoblock in comparison to 1. Which is why I'm worried before continuing my build.

I'm going to leave the pump running at full throttle with the reservoir cap off or loose for a few more hours. If there's no difference & the air bubbles are still sticking to their same spot. I'm just going to go ahead & continue the build tomorrow & pretend they are not there. Spent a few days on this stage already.
Click to expand...

It’s going to clear much faster when you use it pal, if you strip the block down you will see that they cling to the plastic insert under the inlet, that’s what that strange shape is. It’s got all kinds of narrow channels but ultimately they sit there because I think the flow is being directed away.

Generally speaking most will clear with use as it gets warm, a few weeks sometimes. Running the pump on high will clear the big air pockets but may create more small ones.

Don’t worry about them though mate, take it from someone that has stripped these, that area is not close to the metal plates which are well under your fluid cooling. That side of the plastic chunk is a good 2cm from the jet plate and CPU cooling fins. You will Start with ‘loads’ and no doubt there will be one sitting in that let or right bottom corner of the shape.

Crack on a build, they will clear with temperature and time I promise ;)
 
Thanks mate, that's reassuring. I have cracked on with the build & stopped stressing about bubbles. Currently at idle I'm getting temps of between 27-30C. That's without the fans or pump being set to max. Obviously it's all about the load temps. I will check them later.

Currently my new problem is attempting to get the monoblock light to work now. It's always the water cooling equipment with the problems LMAO. All other rgb lighting & fan control are working just fine. I've connected it to mobo rgb header pins & no luck. Only once in my tinkering have I seen light come from the block... for about 3 seconds then went out. Scratching my head on this one. Now is it the hardware or the software :confused:
 
Bartacus said:
Currently my new problem is attempting to get the monoblock light to work now. It's always the water cooling equipment with the problems LMAO. All other rgb lighting & fan control are working just fine. I've connected it to mobo rgb header pins & no luck. Only once in my tinkering have I seen light come from the block... for about 3 seconds then went out. Scratching my head on this one. Now is it the hardware or the software :confused:
Click to expand...

You’re lucky the usual problem is they won’t switch off :). Check in BIOS that aura effects are on, off in soft states. You will need to install Aura to control, if you download it the install will not work UNLESS you right click the properties of the zip folder and ‘unlock’ before extracting. Windows 10 security breaks it otherwise, took me ages to figure that out.

Aura will let you control it so once installed and rebooted it should appear in there to configure.
 
Confirmed aura effects switched on in bios. Off in soft states. Have aura software installed. Had no problems with installation using current version on win 10. Using version 1.05.28. Using rampage vi extreme bios version 1004.

Aura software window : At the top I have a motherboard icon & an add strip icon. The motherboard icon is dimmed out. Clicked add strip, doesn't actually do anything apart from asking if I would like to save or not.
Shouldn't I be seeing another icon at the top like cpu or something to indicate the monoblock rgb feature. I've seen in a picture online a VGA icon up top next to the motherboard/add strip.
 
I think it shows as an area of the motherboard - just try changing colours and applying to test.

It might be VRM for example, all testing will do is change colour so can be reset. Should be a header close to there no?
 
I've given up now mate. The final straw was today when my corsair mouse decided to die for no reason closely followed my creative speakers. Happens in 3's they say.

thanks for the help provided. Didn't quite get there but appreciated none the less.
 
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