Alienware 7500 PC Case Build

mrshinyshoes

mrshinyshoes

mrshinyshoes

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Joined
19 Jul 2009
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I’ve recently come across this case second hand and i’m looking to build it back up as a mid range PC.


Build principles
1) Keep it as stock as possible, the rgb logic board still works (i think)
2) Air cooled (hoping to cram in a legacy Noctua NH-D14)
3) Not a toaster, if it is back to the drawing board.

Initial thoughts
I think this case (soundproofing) is fairly rare, looking online I haven’t been able to find any with what appears to be stock black alienware soundproofing foam.

The case is a standard ATX case with standard mobo headers. My only concern is the top mounted PSU so I intend to oversize the wattage over actual for longevity / ensure airflow is as good as can be.

Thoughts or similar build findings welcome, i’ll be working out the specs soon.

 
I can tell you now you do not want to use the sound insulation. It makes absolutely no difference, apart from maybe lowering the sound of a mechanical drive a tiny bit but turns it into an insulated oven. In one of my many cases the same as this (I've had over 10) I managed to buy it. And yeah... Just trapped dust and made it like an oven.

The main mod people used to do then was to remove the grill from the rear fan. IE carve it out of the back of the case (the plastic cover). Or just remove the entire cover.

I have also run a NHD14 in one too. So you should get away with that.

You don't need to overdo the wattage of the PSU. Just make sure the fan is above the mobo. Do not flip it over or the PSU will not breathe. The original case had a Hipro PSU and was a 80mm fan in the back. So if anything a PSU with a 120 or 140mm fan in will get more heat out of the case.

Also. I am not sure you will get the lighting working either. There were two versions of the small PCB in the bottom of the case. One (the cheap one) had DIP switches on it to change the lighting. This would work no matter what. However.. Looking at your one? that looks like the £90 upgrade. IE, it was active and could be changed in Windows with the command centre software. Great right? well no. Unless your board has been named in its BIOS to be an Alienware it will reject it. IE, only OEM Alienware boards (which back then were either Asus or EVGA) with their BIOS modded with a specific tool from Alienware (which even with friends INSIDE the company I was NEVER able to get).

So yeah, if that wee board has DIP switches on it you can change the lighting and it will work. If it does not? you will basically need to rip it all out and DIY bulbs yourself. The bulbs in there as stock are 4 filament. As in, one red, one green, one blue. And the DIP switches would merge them and allow you to have like purple and yellow etc. It was an extremely over engineered system. Hence the absolute ton of wiring just for a few random bulbs dotted around and the 6 bulb front white panel that sits just in the front.
 
ALXAndy said:
I can tell you now you do not want to use the sound insulation. It makes absolutely no difference, apart from maybe lowering the sound of a mechanical drive a tiny bit but turns it into an insulated oven. In one of my many cases the same as this (I've had over 10) I managed to buy it. And yeah... Just trapped dust and made it like an oven.

The main mod people used to do then was to remove the grill from the rear fan. IE carve it out of the back of the case (the plastic cover). Or just remove the entire cover.

I have also run a NHD14 in one too. So you should get away with that.

You don't need to overdo the wattage of the PSU. Just make sure the fan is above the mobo. Do not flip it over or the PSU will not breathe. The original case had a Hipro PSU and was a 80mm fan in the back. So if anything a PSU with a 120 or 140mm fan in will get more heat out of the case.

Also. I am not sure you will get the lighting working either. There were two versions of the small PCB in the bottom of the case. One (the cheap one) had DIP switches on it to change the lighting. This would work no matter what. However.. Looking at your one? that looks like the £90 upgrade. IE, it was active and could be changed in Windows with the command centre software. Great right? well no. Unless your board has been named in its BIOS to be an Alienware it will reject it. IE, only OEM Alienware boards (which back then were either Asus or EVGA) with their BIOS modded with a specific tool from Alienware (which even with friends INSIDE the company I was NEVER able to get).

So yeah, if that wee board has DIP switches on it you can change the lighting and it will work. If it does not? you will basically need to rip it all out and DIY bulbs yourself. The bulbs in there as stock are 4 filament. As in, one red, one green, one blue. And the DIP switches would merge them and allow you to have like purple and yellow etc. It was an extremely over engineered system. Hence the absolute ton of wiring just for a few random bulbs dotted around and the 6 bulb front white panel that sits just in the front.
Click to expand...
Oh wow thanks for the knowledge especially the nhd14 fitting and PSU info (that will save me a bit of money).

The sound insulation does look like it will act like a blanket, will have to see how temps go.

Good call on the back fan i’ve got a dremel so may remove one of the grills (not the plastic alienware one if I can avoid it).

Re. The lights, I believe mine has the dip switches, i’ll drop a photo at somepoint.

I just love this case, if only it was a bit more portable.
 
Build update pics attached below, all parts to get it going have now arrived (GPU im holding out a bit longer to see how the mid range looks after intel battlemage etc.),

Sadly come across my first issue, the PSU screws don’t align to the case bracket. This is a job for another day as I’ll need to drill some new holes for the screws. This gives me time to work out how best to mark the correct spot whilst holding the fairly heavy PSU on the small contact pads at the top of the case.

Due to the placement at the top of the case I can’t get away with just one.

kq9zSGW_d.webp


Headline specs;

- Ryzen 7600
- 32gb RAM
- ASROCK B650 Steel Legend WiFi motherboard (seems fairly well reviewed and whilst it is white / grey this case doesn’t have windows so will be fine!)
- Sata SSD to get it going (will move to nvme at somepoint)


MrDahmK_d.webp

I don’t think even a single screw hole aligns sadly, any advice here welcome!
 
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