Another model finished.

Soldato
Joined
17 Sep 2003
Posts
3,431
Sorry guys, its the plastic kit type !

Finished this fella a couple of weeks ago, its the new Hasegawa Avro Lancaster BIII in 1/72 scale. Took me a little over 2 months. Markings are for a 100 Sqn Waltham Lanc that was lost in the Nuremberg raid of 2nd Jan 1945.

Lanc2.jpg


Lanc1.jpg


lancsmall2.jpg


lancsmall5.jpg


lancsmall6.jpg
 
cheers peeps :D

Nah - it can't fly, well not in the traditional sense anyway..

Drunken - unfortunately its never just out-of-the-box these days, I superdetailed the interior, including scratchbuilt navigators table, radio sets, radar display, as well as all of the turret interiors and cabling. (I needn't have bothered in many places in hindsight, as it just can't be seen anymore) I also added flaps made from etched metal parts.

about 95% airbrushed.

Thanks again

John
 
iv-tecman - I'd love to see some of your work, I use a double action Iwata copy I bought from a well known auction site for a very reasonable price, I use Lifecolour Acrylic paints which are water soluble and odourless, so the missus doesn't complain quite as much these days!

Tamiya are very much the kings of model kits, and you get what you pays for, Hasegawa are very much along side Tamiya for aircraft kits, but like all manufacturers there is only so much detail an injection moulded kit can manage, so aftermarket bits and scratchbuilding is the norm for pretty much any project I attempt.

I must admit I have considered doing commission builds in the past, but its hard to put a price on something that sometimes takes up to 6 months of work.

I have a couple more builds here

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal4/3101-3200/Gal3172_Lightning_Morrey/gal3172.htm

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal5/4201-4300/gal4282_Tornado_Morrey/gal4282.htm
 
Phantom said:
what do you do when you've built them? do you hang them from the ceiling with cotton thread?

Hi Phantom, nah, they just go on a nice safe shelf out of the way of cats and fiancees with dusters :D
 
Goliath said:
Fabulous work John, the GR4 in particular looks awesome.

Are there any reference sites regarding modelling and painting techniques you could link to? Building kits isn't a problem for me, it's just the painting side of things that i inevitably screw up :o

Thanks goliath.

These videos by Brett Green from Testors Scale Workshop are about the best reference I've found in a long while,

http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop.htm

Needless to say an airbrush is a must-have, but they go a long way in explaining the techniques.

John
 
STUNNING work Techman - how did you achieve that mirror-smooth finish on that Boxter ? I ask with interest as I'm looking to do a High-gloss Royal Navy FRADU hawk in a gloss black paintjob soon.

John
 
iv-tecman said:
The boxster, in fact all my car models are painted the same old tried and tested method I’ve used for a long time.

I always prime the plastic first using a good plastic lacquer primer. Halfords sell good plastic primer, as it will protect the plastic from melting, as once I’ve primed I then use automotive lacquer paints or sometimes Tamiya TS lacquers, and lacquers can sometimes etch or even melt plastic. Tamiya Lacquers are formulated to work directly on styrene, but I always prime anyhow.

I sand the primer with good automotive 1200 grit, wet n dry. This means the primer has small scratches, but it’s smooth, allowing the lacquer paint something to bite into, but not etch the plastic, as the primer gives a good barrier against the hot lacquer solvents.

Once I’m happy that the primer is smooth and even I then wash and allow to dry. I also use a pre coat of white or red etc primer for lighter colours. Yellow for example needs a cream primer, white needs white, whereas red needs a pink primer. You need to gauge the paint you are using. Yellow for example is less opaque then black. Black covers anything, so grey primer is fine.

Apply two – three mist of top colour. Allow to dry, then a slightly wetter coat. Allow to dry, cut back with 1500 to smooth the orange peel out. Finish with a further two wet coats. Last coat so wet it almost runs. Then allow to cure off for about a week. (this does depend on type of paint used, drying conditions etc. Auto Lacquer dries within a day, but takes a week to fully cure off, Tamiya TS paints take a little longer, Acrylic nearly a month to fully cure and enamels forever)

Now with the paint cured, you need to fully inspect the final finish. Look for orange peel. This is where you need to decide, do you need to flatten the paint with 2400 grit or can you get away with just using a good compound polish and then wax. It’s hard to explain, but to get a mirror finish you need to ensure the surface is smooth like a mirror, as any dimple in the paint will reflect the light at the wrong angle, and reduce the shine. You get the surface smooth, by sanding and compounds, but

too much and you run the risk of sanding to the primer.

Great stuff - many thanks for that, the end result is VERY impressive !
 
Will said:
Somehow missed your Lanc over at ARC Skii :o looks great though! Those cars are awesome too, love the two Skylines :D

Skii, do you mind me askin how you get the panel lines to stand out like that?

I know about this idea of using a thinned out paint wash and all that, but i do worry about how it will turn out - I always use Humbrol enamels and humbrol matt/gloss coats, and I wonder how using cellulose thinners and a wash would react with these.

I always get paranoid about ruining a good paint finish :( and tend not to bother, I just do a bit of dirtying up with a HB pencil and my fingers which looks 'okay' for light dirt smearing but is no use at all for panel lines. If you could tell us what paints you use, what oils/paints you use for the wash, and what sort of dilution, that would be really helpful!

Will - the panel lines are post shaded - where you spray a darker shade along them, and then I use an oil wash (oil paint mixed with thinners).

The secret to a wash is the protective coat. When you finish your basic paint job, you completely coat the model in a protective shell which keeps the oil wash from staining the paintjob - the best technique by far is to spray (or brush) a coat of Johnsons floor polish (klear) onto the model, this gives it a glossy appearance. The oil wash will now flow along panel lines without affecting the paint, and the added bonus being you can simply wipe any mistake away without affecting the paint underneath. The gloss coat also is the best surface to apply decals to. When you get tho the final stages you can simply spray a matt coat on to restore the matt paintjob.

iv-tecman - I love that Nissan Skyline R33 - really nicely done !

John
 
pieman109 said:
I also converted the airfix FW190 into a "D9" and skinned that as well, and it ended up in the Tamiya model magazine with a fullblown article (took me ages to write it).

Wow - that must have been a hell of a job, I'd love to see that.

John
 
Back
Top Bottom