Anybody know the head bolt settings for a k-reg Fester?

Soldato
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18 Oct 2002
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"Sunny" Plymouth
Putting my mother-in-laws 1.1 pile-o-crap back together today but i can't find my autodata disc, meaning i'm stumped for head bolt torque.

Anybody?

Cheers :)
 
Been through my Haynes and could only find 'Cylinder head bolts' - is that what you mean?
It displays the following infomation:

Cylinder head bolt (may be re-used once only):
Stage 1 .... 30Nm, 22lbf ft
Stage 2 .... Angle-tighten a further 90'
Stage 3 .... " " " "
 
Yup, that's what i'm after, cheers.

(my mother-in-law is a nugget for car care, "oh the cars smoking a bit, can you have a look at it", discovered the headgasket had been blown long enough to fill all the breather tubes with grey/white sludge which was them fed back into the carb to be burnt in the engine :eek: )
 
I'll try to find my post about how to clean all the gunk out of the engine after a HGF.

It's rather lengthy to describe, but not to do..... BRB
 
Here it is.....

Mickey_D said:
A fun little trick for getting all the mayo out of the block after you've got it all together :

1. After final assembly, fill the sump with three quarts of the cheapest oil you can buy. The 99p per quart stuff. Add one quart of automatic transmission fluid. Stick on an absolute dirt cheap oil filter.

2. Fire the engine up for about 2-3 minutes. Just enough to circulate the ATF around every nook and cranny of the engine. The ATF will suspend EVERY little bit of water in the engine in itself and trap it all in the oil filter.

3. Do a complete oil change using a repeat of step one and two. Verify at the end that there is no more mayo (or at the most only a hint) in the oil. If there's still quite a bit, do another change. Even 1cc of water will completely contaminate four quarts of the best oil on the market and make it useless to your engine.

4. When there's no more hint of mayo in what's coming out the sump plug, put your favorite oil and a good filter on and you're ready to go.
 
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