Anyone have a Worksharp Precision Adjust sharpener?

Goose

Goose

Goose

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I'm considering buying said sharpening system to do my kitchen knives but I cant find any UK sites that sell replacement stones, I'm hesitant to buy the thing if it becomes useless once the stones have worn out.

Also, I've seen people mention lapping films and found these on ebay and i'm wondering if anyone has used them?

Thanks
 
Lapping films are relatively popular amongst woodworkers instead of stones. And yes they are excellent you can move therough the films to get scary sharp chisels amd planes.

As to kitchen knife sharpening I have a Chef's Choice and find it to be easy to use and great results.

That sharpener is interesting, have you found the stones internationally and if so how much? Although at the price on Amazon for a new machine I'd be amazed if the stones weren't 50% of the cost if you bought replacements.
 
It has diamond plates. You'd need to do a lot of daily sharpening to wear those out, as these things tend to last decades.
There are both replacement and expansion kits, but they're taking a little while to reach these shores.

ANDARIAL said:
That looks like it is designed for small fishing/pocket knives
`Might` not have enough travel for a larger knife like a kitchen knife?
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I've done 16" hunting and combat knives on mine, so it should handle most kitchen blades in one sweep. If not, you can always do one half and then move it along, like you would with a Lansky.
 
ttaskmaster said:
It has diamond plates. You'd need to do a lot of daily sharpening to wear those out, as these things tend to last decades.
There are both replacement and expansion kits, but they're taking a little while to reach these shores.


I've done 16" hunting and combat knives on mine, so it should handle most kitchen blades in one sweep. If not, you can always do one half and then move it along, like you would with a Lansky.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

I dont suppose you have any tips or know of any good guides for getting the best results with this system?
 
Goose said:
I dont suppose you have any tips or know of any good guides for getting the best results with this system?
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Set the rubber stoppers to fit the knife you're working on. You want as much of the full travel as possible, which will be quite different if you're doing a Santoku or Bowie compared to a SAK.
Use light pressure, take your time (chuck on a movie or something) and work evenly.
Take time to get the feel for when the stones are biting into the grind and when they're gliding more freely. Check for a burr on the back side each time, especially if you're sharpening to a different angle with the Coarse stone.

I generally work back and forth on the Coarse stone in line with the rod with a 'sawing' motion while moving slowly along the edge until a burr forms, rather than just swiping along the edge like the Lansky method. Try and count your strokes, so you repeat it on the other side. Then switch to the Fine stone and make about 10 strokes either side, then do 9 either side, then 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. Finish with a gentle honing on the ceramic stone.
 
Goose said:
@PlacidCasual

According to people on Reddit the replacement stones only cost 8 dollars in the US.
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To be honest in this day an age that is surprising in a good way. The number of times over the last decade I've tried to buy spares for relatively inexpensive equipment and the spares have been a substantial portion of the whole cost is very annoying. Good on them.
 
ANDARIAL said:
Ahhh right :)
it looks like there was not enough travel on it,but if you take out knife to reposition does it not alter the honing angle?
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I didn't reposition it. That 16" (plus a bit extra) is the full length of the arm/rod travel from one side to another, assuming you clamp the blade at the mid-point of the spine.

If you do a very long blade and have to reposition it, then yes there can be a very slight variation in angle, but it makes very little difference and none that you'd detect without precision measuring equipment.
What makes a bigger difference is how deep and how straight you set the blade into the clamp each time, but again the difference is pretty slight unless you're wildly careless.
 
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