Are some cameras more prone to shake

darreny

darreny

darreny

Soldato
Joined
19 May 2004
Posts
2,993
Recently got the Canon 70d and tbh I was set for sending it back thinking it had issues until I tried shutter priority starting at 1/80 and I was upto 1/320 before getting blur free images holding the body and one hand under lens. I can get to 1/125 using my shoulder but makes back button focus harder.

Tell me your speeds and holding technique as I may look a div outdoors using my shoulder.

That was with the nifty fifty btw
 
If your very steady then 1/focal length is think is generally regarded the minimum. With IS this obviously can go down a stop or two further.

I tend to aim to keep above 1/200 sub 70mm.

And to answer your question, no. If the camera is moving whilst taking the picture with too slow shutter speed it will always be blurry, that’s physics.
 
To a certain extent, yes, the camera can have an effect. A higher resolution sensor will show more blur when viewed at 100%, although when normalized for viewing size it makes no difference.

Biggest differences are mostly due to ergonomics and camera weight distribution. Larger heavier cameras tend to be easier hold steady, which is why the Canon and nikon pro cameras are big heavy bricks.



Also bear in mind the 1/focal length rule of thumb refers to the effective focal length. So on a 1.6x crop camera a 50mm prime would require 1/8th at a minimum for an average user getting an acceptable but not perfect success rate. E.g., at 1/80th a second out of 10 photos you might get 6 sharp, 3 acceptable and 1 failure. If you bump that to 1/152th you might get 7 sharp, 2 or 3 acceptable and maybe 1 failure. at 1/200 you get 8-9 sharp 1-2 acceptable and minimal chance of failure.

And that is if you are average. Poor technique of shaky hands and your odds go down so you need a faster shutter speed to maintain a reasonable success rate.


Also, if you shoot at very narrow depth of focus then you need a lot more care that focus is accurate so you might get a blurred subject simply because you moved a few mm.
 
Technique and lenses are likely to be more of a factor tbh. With something like a 50mm it should be pretty easy to get it down to 1/50th even on a crop camera.

As D.P. said weight is important however. Heavier lenses and cameras are usually easier to hold. As an example with IS/VR/OS switched off I can handhold and shoot a 120-300 f/2.8 (3kg) much more stably than equivalent focal lengths using a 150-600 Contemporary <2kg.

Its’ a lot to do with weight distribution.
 
My 300mm f/4 PF lens is really hard to ahndhold becuase it is so light 700g), which is kidn fo a shame because the whole point is to have a super lightweight telephoto handheld lens.
 
Thanks for all the input it's much appreciated. I seem to have nailed it now and got to 1/80 handholds. I was a bit worried at first I'd made a mistake buying the camera and tbh I've read it so many times with others when they've had a change
 
Cuchulain said:
You assign a button on the back of your camera to focus instead of using the half press method on the front.
Click to expand...
What is the advantage of that? Surely if your finger is on the shutter button anyway it doesn't make sense to have to adjust your grip to allow for back button focus? :confused:
 
For me it means when I'm on the tripod I can get my focus right and don't need to switch the lens to manual to stop it focusing every time I press the shutter.

Take a look at tony northrups youtube video on it (beware he will try and sell you or plug his book numerous times in every single video)
 
It's also beneficial if you recompose after focusing.

It's useless if you use your left eye though. All cameras are right eyed it seems.:p
 
I guess it depends on where the button is. On the D7000 it's just in front of the right eye when shooting with the left, so its pretty much impossible to use without poking your eye (if you can even reach it in the first place).
 
Amp34 said:
It's also beneficial if you recompose after focusing.

It's useless if you use your left eye though. All cameras are right eyed it seems.:p
Click to expand...
In general you shoudln;t recopose after focusing though, at least you need to try to minimize it and select a focus point closest to intended target.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom