Assistance Needed: Power Supply to +12v DC

Luc

Luc

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Dear Overclockers,

I hope this message finds you well and thriving in the world of tech wizardry!

I've recently embarked on a mission to power my Netgear GS108Tv3 switch using my Corsair AX860i power supply, and I find myself in need of some guidance.

Here's the scoop: I'm looking to tap into the AX860i's +12V output, and I suspect the CPU input (on Corsair PSU) might be the golden ticket. My trusty Netgear switch has an input of +12V 1A DC male power, and I believe this Corsair powerhouse can deliver the spark it needs.

Now, my quest for the perfect connection has led me to ponder two options:

1. Ready-Made Magic: Is there an enchanted cable that converts goes from Molex pin to +12v DC male?

2. DIY Power Symphony: Alternatively, I'm not afraid to embark on a cable crafting adventure! Any product recommendations I'm all ears (and wires)!

Your expertise is my compass, any insights, recommendations, and any pearls of wisdom you might have are greatly appreciated.

Link to a little visual representation I've made on how I plan to wire everything together, so far: https://postimg.cc/vgMQjJDT
 
Hey 5abr3,
Thanks for getting back to me, such useful info!

Yes the PSU will be running a PC/TrueNAS server (i7 5960x, 32GB DDR4, Asus x99-E WS, GTX 970 + 12x HHDs), I wonder if connected to a computer would I still need a PSU test connector?

''Molex power extender'' sounds like a great idea, but not sure it will fit into my Corsair ax860i PSU: https://www.tweaktown.com/image.php...platinum_digital_power_supply_review_full.jpg

Originally I was planning on using a 2-pin ''CPU'' connector like such: https://www.moddiy.com/products/PSU-Modular-Power-Supply-2-Pin-Connector-with-Pins-Black.html
*as I would only be connecting + and - wires, so using a 6/8 pin PCIe/CPU connector seemed like overkill (+ all of the extra wires I wouldn't know what to do with haha)

My current pieces of the puzzle:
1. Corsair PSU with PCIe / CPU (the 24pin ATX I'd need for my motherboard)
2. Original 12v DC Male Barrel Jack (so it should be solid)
3. Mini Inline Fuse 1A (should I look for 2A?)

Looking for:
1. 2-pin PCIe connector
2. Insulated Wire, 10, 15 or 20 AWG?
 
OK, so in this circumstance the power status for the server will also directly determine the Ethernet switch power (server and switch both on or both off) so the test connector wouldn't be viable as the server motherboard will assume that role. Whether that's OK or not for you will depend if its a 24/7 on server and what else is attached to the switch and what their power and data loadings look like. E.g. if you have camera's attached to the server and they feed data only to the server then all on/off is probably fine but if one is just on the switch because that's where you had a free port and is something else then turning the server off may be inconvenient.


My supply wasn't modular, was just as an example in case an alternative connection plan is needed.


Before trying to nail it down to a specific connector it would ve more helpful to understand what you are already using on the PSU for the server. I would suggest the simlplest way to do this is to take an image of the power supply connectors and drop labels over the connectors you are already using so we can see what is free for use.



Before we can answer the Fuse and wire size question properly: are you planning to use the PoE functionality or do you want to just set it up as a 1.5A supply up front just in case?

Your current switch supply I think is 1.5A so a 1A fuse may not be sized correctly to avoid nuisance blows, but there are 1.5A fuses available from different fuse families.

Have you also considered how you plan to get the wires out of the case yet?

Edit: clarified a little around the 1A vs 1.5A availability
Hey 5abr3,

Excuse my incorrect terms, as this is not my field of specialty, however, I'm eager to learn. I will try to answer your questions to the best of my ability.

The server I am building will be a home/TrueNAS server acting as a website host, so will be turned on 24/7 (at least thats the plan).

Here is a picture of my PSU (the red is in use), leaving the : https://postimg.cc/WdK0VxNb

At the moment I am not using the PoE functionality and I was not planning on, however somewhere down the line I might, so probably best I prepare for that (happy to buy a higher AWG wire, if thats whats needed).

As for my Switch supply, the manufacturr states its a 1A supply, and the same is labeled on the power supply that comes with the switch +12v 1A
PAGE 14: https://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/GS108Tv3/GS108Tv3_GS110TPv3_GS110TPP_HIG_EN.pdf
 
5abr3 my amigo, thank you so much for all of the above, you've cleared up so many questions!

As for the connector you are 100% correct the 2-pin would not fit (intially I figured I'd just cut away the clip haha), but much better to go with a full 8pin CPU/PCIe connector and just use 2-pins. I've bought this one: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251....0.0.6b9238daKSLqty&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Copy
on the fuse (1A it is!), will also make sure to place it close to my PSU. May I ask the reason behind placing it closer to the PSU rather then farther away. Also I should add that the distance between the PSU and the switch is 20-30cm or 8-12 inch, so not long at all.

To give you a better understanding of my project, i've decided to build the whole server inside a vintage 1960s military crate (I just cant stand the plastic PC/server cases haha), so the whole project will be DIY and the route cable management you've asked about will all be done inside the case. The only cable inputs that will be connected to the outside of the case are the 220v power cable (for Corsair PSU), all the swtich ethernet inputs and a individual RJ45 input that will be going straight to the switch and motherboard. Very unconventional I know, it's just how I like to roll haha :cool:

Copy on the AWG 24 AWG (~0.25mm^2 with insulation diameter from 1.22mm) to 16 AWG (~1.3mm^2 insulation diameter to 3.15mm). Will probably go with 18 or 20 AWG, hit middle ground ;)
*would you be able to share the link to the Molex website you got this info from

Again thank you for all your help, much appreciated
 
You are a real maestro sir. Thank you for all of this, I feel I am on the right path and all is well planned.

Will make sure to properly test the connections (push, click, wiggle, pull) haha

Btw found a off-brand version of your 5557 deblocking tool, in case youd want one for yourself, only 5$ haha
 
One more thought on the "push, click, wiggle, pull" side of things: as we don't know how good the tolerance stackup is going to be for your 5557 type 8 way and your PSU header I would recommend repeating the push step if the housing moves back when you do the pull check but doesnt come back off just to make sure the terminals and housing are fully inserted if you decide not to replace the housing.

It shouldn't be an issue on such a small load but better to be certain!

Hey 5abr3, thank you for the additional input, will definitely make sure to test the 8pin connector thoroughly.

Additionally, taking into consideration the custom case Im building, space is a bit ''limited/tight'', so I was planning on placing the PSU (Corsair AX860i) and the switch (Netgear GS108Tv3) relatively close together (about 5cm/2inch).

With such close proximity to each other, should I be concerened about EMI, RFI, EFI... or any other interfernace that could potentially disrupt the functionality of my devices? Or both devices being high quality build this shouldn't be an issue? *I plan to use shielded ethernet cables

An alternative idea for a solution to the interfernace issue was putting a plastic/metal sheet wrapped in foam (so its not conductive) between the devices to minimize the chance of this happening.

Would absolutely love to hear what your thoughts are on this and if my concern is of paranoid nature haha
 
I wouldn't anticipate any issues, especially given they will be CE marked and the PSU and switch both have metal cases

Shielded Ethernet can't hurt you can spare the space for the stiffer cable where you need to bend it.
Fantastico, thats great! Thank you bud
 
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