Auto ISO settings?

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Soldato
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I was going to post this in the Fuji thread but it's fairly relevant to all cameras, so what auto ISO settings do you all use? If you do use it?

The first trip I took with my XT10 I was setting my minimum shutter speed to 1/60 -- I was only using the 35/f2 and 14/f2.8 so my theory was that followed the rule of 1/focal length for safety. However a few of my shots came out not quite blurry, but not quite as 'crisp' as I'd have hoped. What do you all use as your minimum shutter speeds when using auto ISO? Do you think the following settings might be a bit better? I'm setting them as Quick settings so in order would have Quick settings for bright light, medium light and not-much-light :p

AUTO 1: ISO base 200 + ISO limit 400 + Min shutter 1/160

AUTO 2: ISO base 200 + ISO limit 3200 + Min shutter 1/100

AUTO 3: ISO base 400 + ISO limit 6400 + Min shutter 1/80

Again, I'll be using the 14mm and 35mm primes, most likely with polarisers in the sunshine too. Am I being too conservative with the ISO limit in AUTO 1? The XT10 is pretty decent up to 3200...

Cheers.
 
Yeah I think you're right. I need to see some comparisons of the same scene shot at 200 and 3200 maybe. Struggling to find any right now?

Do you think 1/100 is a good shutter speed cut off for street shots and landscapes/architecture?
 
Not sure how the Fuji Auto ISO setup works but I'd say if you are struggling to get sharp handheld shots at 14 & 35mm at those shutter speeds above I'd perhaps look at how you hold the camera, your breathing techniques and foot placement when shooting.
 
My D800 is set to follow the 1/Focal length and will adjust automatically as needed ISO limit 6400, really absolutely no reason not to set it to the highest possible ISO value otherwise the shutter speed will be limited and you will get soft photos. Just be aware of what the ISO is being set to and adjust your aperture as needed.

I can also set the D800 to be more conservative with something like 1/2XFocal length which will all but guarantee a sharp photo but at the expense of an extra stop of noise.

However, you should note the rule of thumb is just approximate, some people will need much faster shutter speed for good results. Small mirror-less camera are not as easy to hold steady as a larger DSRL with more mass. It also refers to effective focal length so make sure you account for the 1.5xcrop factor.


Also, for landscapes and architecture you should really get in to the habit of using a tripod. The extra detail you will get from a tripod is paramount for landscape work.
 
I tend to leave auto iso on with a max of 3200..

Then keep the camera in manual and set shutter speed and aperture as appropriate.

I'll try and keep below iso 400 if I can.

Even at 3200 I get pretty good results. (nikon d7100)

Better to have no motion blurr and what I want in focus with more noise.
 
Thanks. I think some of the issues may have been user error. A bit snap happy, first time out with a mirrorless and forgetting simple things like breathing and bracing. Certainly need to remember those as it is such a lighter camera than my old Nikon D50! You can see some of them on my Flickr, just feels like perhaps some of them woyld have benefited from a higher iso and faster shutter speed, I'd sort of got in my head that it's sunny therefore anything over 200 is bad! Not really the case.

Oh and I always shoot aperture priority unless it's a tricky static shot I want to get.

So DP you're saying there's really no point having 3 different custom auto iso settings, one is enough? :)
 
I don't see why you would need more than 1. Either you want auto-iso or you dont (manual flash work, tripod mount). Let auto-iso do it thing and select a setting form base ISO right up to the max the camera supports. However, with my camera it will automatically select a shutter speed based on focal length. If you camera doesn't support that then you will need to adjust the shutter speed accordingly for each lens., and you will have to you the longer focal length of a zoom (in this case auto0-iso is not ideal and manual ISO would be best IMO)
 
Yeah got it. Seen as I only have my 14 and 35 primes the shutter speed limit wouldn't be too much of any issues.

I wonder though, by using auto iso at a min shutter speed of (say) 1/125, does that not mean all of your shots are going to come out at 1/125? :confused: Because if the camera thinks there is more light rather than lengthen the shutter speed it will lower the iso, and if it thinks there is less light it will up the iso until it gets good exposure at 1/125? :confused:
 
Scam said:
Yeah got it. Seen as I only have my 14 and 35 primes the shutter speed limit wouldn't be too much of any issues.

I wonder though, by using auto iso at a min shutter speed of (say) 1/125, does that not mean all of your shots are going to come out at 1/125? :confused: Because if the camera thinks there is more light rather than lengthen the shutter speed it will lower the iso, and if it thinks there is less light it will up the iso until it gets good exposure at 1/125? :confused:
Click to expand...

That is the whole purpose of Auto ISO. If you wnat 1/125th shutter speed then it will increase ISO until that can be reached. If conditions are bright enough it will reduce ISO to the base level, if it is still bright enough the shutter will increase in speed.
 
I tend to use the same prime lens all the time, so I'm pretty good at guessing what shutter speed I need.
So I set that first.

Then I set aperture.
Depends on what I'm trying to achieve.
I'll generally stop down a bit if there is enough light, or if I'm using a fast lens and want more in focus.

Then I'll see what iso I'm at.
If it's too high I'll shoot wide open (if shallow dof is OK)
Or I'll drop the shutter speed but only if I can get away with it.

As I'm mostly shooting wildlife I'm constantly changing shutter speeds and to a lesser extent aperture.
Moving or flying things need higher shutter speeds.
Generally no motion blurr and in focus gives me much better results than shooting low iso.

I guess what I'm really trying to say is keep your shutter speed fast enough and don't worry about iso as much.
 
D.P. said:
That is the whole purpose of Auto ISO. If you wnat 1/125th shutter speed then it will increase ISO until that can be reached. If conditions are bright enough it will reduce ISO to the base level, if it is still bright enough the shutter will increase in speed.
Click to expand...
No I get that, I'm just curious if it means ALL of your shots will come out at 1/125 :)

Holst1981 said:
(snip)

I guess what I'm really trying to say is keep your shutter speed fast enough and don't worry about iso as much.
Click to expand...
I work pretty much the opposite way. I'm generally shooting people/street shots or landscapes. But not fully blown landscapes with tripod, more like holiday snaps to be perfectly honest. I like to control aperture and keep an eye on the shutter speed, hence my interest in how auto ISO can help that. Each to their own :)
 
I guess that for wildlife in the uk I'm often wide open.
So I'm mostly changing shutter speed.
Bird on a branch can be ok at 1/400 but the same bird flying needs 1/1000

If I'm at iso 1600 it's worth changing, but the camera can't auto that yet..... Maybe one day :D

Without auto iso I wouldn't be able to use my camera. Rarely turn it off unless I'm using flash or doing long exposure or tripod. Normal shooting its always on.
 
Scam said:
No I get that, I'm just curious if it means ALL of your shots will come out at 1/125 :)

I work pretty much the opposite way. I'm generally shooting people/street shots or landscapes. But not fully blown landscapes with tripod, more like holiday snaps to be perfectly honest. I like to control aperture and keep an eye on the shutter speed, hence my interest in how auto ISO can help that. Each to their own :)
Click to expand...


Auto ISO jut tries to set the max shutter speed duration, it will let you shoot faster if there is sufficient light. at base ISO. And if you hit the ISO limit the exposure will come out slower. Auto ISO doesn't over write the automatic exposure
 
Holst1981 said:
I guess that for wildlife in the uk I'm often wide open.
So I'm mostly changing shutter speed.
Bird on a branch can be ok at 1/400 but the same bird flying needs 1/1000

If I'm at iso 1600 it's worth changing, but the camera can't auto that yet..... Maybe one day :D

Without auto iso I wouldn't be able to use my camera. Rarely turn it off unless I'm using flash or doing long exposure or tripod. Normal shooting its always on.
Click to expand...


For wildlife and a prime lens then I willl also use shtter priority, but these days I use my Sigma Sport 150-600 so a fixed shutter speed is not so useful, but auto ISO is just as important.
 
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