Automobile paint?

depends what kind of finish your after. Paint meant for cars applied correctly will look best, however I've seen more than a few old vans that have been brush painted with dulux white gloss. Looks naff but it stays on!
 
Yes, cars use 2K. It is resilient enough against the weather, constant wind blast and associated bugs and stones fired into it. Resilient against most chemicals. All of this while retaining good gloss.
No other paints can offer all that.
 
Clarkey said:
Yes, cars use 2K. It is resilient enough against the weather, constant wind blast and associated bugs and stones fired into it. Resilient against most chemicals. All of this while retaining good gloss.
No other paints can offer all that.
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I thought most car manufacturers use water based paints at the factory these days (although most bodyshops still use 2k).
 
What's best to use for alloys? I'm looking to refurbish a set on the cheap (don't have to be fantastic, they've been so bad for ages anyway).

I was thinking; damn good clean, emery cloth/wet+dry to remove corrosion, filler stuff for chips/gouges, primer (any in particular?), paint (again, what's best?) and finally a lacquer (once more, which?).
 
Wicksta said:
I thought most car manufacturers use water based paints at the factory these days (although most bodyshops still use 2k).
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No. The basecoat is water-borne these days, original or refinish. Clearcoat is 2K, regardless. Primers are mostly still 2K also.

There seems to be a lot on confusion around this. The only thing which has been replaced with waterborne is the basecoat which was never 2K anyway, it was just solvent-borne, then mixed in with even more solvent in the form of basecoat thinner. The VOC emissions caused by these solvents were deemed damaging to the environment and unacceptable hence the change.

You can still get solvent basecoat very easily, no problem for a private individual to buy it and use it. Professional shops can only use it for classic restorations though.

The only real disadvantage of waterbase is that you need loads of heat and ventilation to evaporate the water content. Solvent basecoat is obviously highly volatile and will flash off quickly without any assistance. DIY users wouldn't normally have the required equipment to dry the waterbase (big, very expensive Infra red lamps).
 
I knew by your original post there had to be something more to it and that I was taking some kind of 'bait'. Well done for hooking me - you got to say what you really wanted to. ;)
 
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