Back again for advice.

Digital X · 10 Apr 2014 at 17:38

My idle temps on my CPU are 34 degrees, GPU 26, but about 70 after a few hours of gaming. Would it best to buy a H100/i for the CPU only, or save up for a custom loop? I do plan to get a K CPU so I am just thinking ahead.

ttaskmaster · 10 Apr 2014 at 17:49

Unless you find a closed loop for a low low price (mine was a recon unit for £40), you're almost into custom loops at that price anyway. If you plan to overclock stuff in the future, definitely custom.

Digital X · 10 Apr 2014 at 17:51

Which has less chance of leaking? I prefer custom for the nice aesthetics, but it's an awful lot of tubings and fittings and I don't think I'd cope very well setting up a loop.

I'll have a look around, thanks!

Tackle_Berry · 10 Apr 2014 at 17:53

ttaskmaster said:
Unless you find a closed loop for a low low price (mine was a recon unit for £40), you're almost into custom loops at that price anyway. If you plan to overclock stuff in the future, definitely custom.

£40 would barely buy him a CPU block for a custom loop. If you can afford it go for custom but if not go for a all in one or a decent air cooler.

Digital X · 10 Apr 2014 at 17:58

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-020-TL&groupid=701&catid=2330&subcat=2262 This took my interest. Little on the pricey side at the moment, and would it be possible to get this in blue at all? as my rig is black and blue themed.

ttaskmaster · 10 Apr 2014 at 18:20

digitalx said:
Which has less chance of leaking? I prefer custom for the nice aesthetics, but it's an awful lot of tubings and fittings and I don't think I'd cope very well setting up a loop.

In theory, the all-in-one unit. You may be one of the very few who encounters a leak from one, but they are supposed to be professionally sealed at manufacture.
There are some deals on reconditioned ones around at the minute, though I cannot really mention where they're in stock...

Ash2097 said:
£40 would barely buy him a CPU block for a custom loop. If you can afford it go for custom but if not go for a all in one or a decent air cooler.

Mine was on special offer. It would have been at least £100 back then... and for the resulting performance, I knew a custom loop wasn't that much more at the time.

However, if the OP is looking at seriously cooling more than just the CPU and especially if he's OC'ing, I'd still be thinking custom. Last time I considered one myself, a nice custom loop would have been around £200-250 IIRC, depending on GPU and what other bits you put in. Expensive for some, perhaps, but he did say he would be saving up...

As is, 70ºC on a GPU isn't that bad. My 6950 did that regularly without issue.

Avenged7Fold · 10 Apr 2014 at 18:50

Completely disagree with AIO having less chance of leaking.

A properly put together custom loop is far mroe reliable due to the pump. Pump failures on AIO units and Custom loops are the main cause of leaks/bursts after the loop is working together and past the leak test phase. This is due to pump failures more likely on the AIO as the pumps are on the block (meaning they operate at higher temperatures) and they are also considerably weaker. When the pump fails, you will soon find the very hot near boiling liquid at the block trying to find its way out.

Digital X · 10 Apr 2014 at 18:55

Yikes. boiling liquid is something I'd prefer to avoid. Custom it is then.

frostdragon · 10 Apr 2014 at 18:56

hey there

Go for an all-in-one water cooling setup. It is a great introduction to water cooling and will suit your needs perfectly.

ttaskmaster · 10 Apr 2014 at 19:13

Avenged7Fold said:
A properly put together custom loop

Seen many posts from people with various woes regarding this part.

frostdragon · 10 Apr 2014 at 20:31

Avenged7Fold said:
Completely disagree with AIO having less chance of leaking.

A properly put together custom loop is far mroe reliable due to the pump. Pump failures on AIO units and Custom loops are the main cause of leaks/bursts after the loop is working together and past the leak test phase. This is due to pump failures more likely on the AIO as the pumps are on the block (meaning they operate at higher temperatures) and they are also considerably weaker. When the pump fails, you will soon find the very hot near boiling liquid at the block trying to find its way out.

This is good information and I agree, the all in one units like thermaltake products are subject to pump failures, but NOT all the time. Coolermaster do some rather nice units.

All in one units have their place and that is a great gateway to custom loops.

Digital X · 10 Apr 2014 at 22:39

Thanks guys, I guess another bonus is it's easier to install than custom with all the bits and bobs. Now to decide which one..

Edit: If it sprung a leak and one of my components got damaged, what would happen ? for warranty, cover etc? That was my main concern as I cannot avoid another GPU/CPU at this time.

Jamin280672 · 11 Apr 2014 at 06:54

If you spring a leak on your GFX card or CPU and fry it then you buy a replacement, most warranty are voided as soon as you remove the stock cooler anyway.

I use EC6 coolant in my setup, its apparently non conductive, but im not willing to test that statement out, im sure it is in small quantities, but a massive leak or a popped off pipe, who knows !

Which is another reason why my cooling setup up is built the way it is, I use 10/8mm tubing with 3/8 (9mm) barbs, you need to dip the pipe in a cup of boiling water to soften it up enough to even get it over the barbs, once its cooled back down the only way I can get it off is with a very sharp knife, I use cable ties as an extra precaution to secure it, but to be honest, I don't think they are really required, that pipe is going no-where.

Although the pipe is quite thin, I love the fact that I don't have to remove my complete water cooling kit just to get the motherboard or a GFX card out.

deFiniLoGy · 11 Apr 2014 at 07:15

Jamin280672 said:
If you spring a leak on your GFX card or CPU and fry it then you buy a replacement, most warranty are voided as soon as you remove the stock cooler anyway.

I use EC6 coolant in my setup, its apparently non conductive, but im not willing to test that statement out, im sure it is in small quantities, but a massive leak or a popped off pipe, who knows !

Which is another reason why my cooling setup up is built the way it is, I use 10/8mm tubing with 3/8 barbs, you need to dip the pipe in a cup of boiling water to soften it up enough to even get it over the barbs, once its cooled back down the only way I can get it off is with a very sharp knife, I use cable ties as an extra precaution to secure it, but to be honest, I don't think they are really required, that pipe is going no-where.

EVGA / MSI are actually fine for removing stock cooler

Btw, there is no non-conductive fluid... As soon as you put a non-conductive (Deionized water) into a loop which contains soluble metal, the metallic ion will dissolve into the fluid sooner or later.

Or maybe use compression fitting