Search for the ICE Clients' Guide: Reducing the Risk of Leaking Substructure.
BS8102 is the code for waterproofing stuctures in the ground and it recommends (for anything non-trivial) 2 independent forms of waterproofing for habitable basements and the like.
Water always wins so SFAIK the best route is to always aim to make one of those a drained cavity solution with a pump to deal with the water that does get in. You lose space by installing the cavity drain, but it can be plastic egg crate faced with moisture resistant plasterboard fixed back to the existing walls if they are good enough.
For an existing structure your other method would be some form of tanking, probably behind (ie outside of) the cavity drain, but it will obviously depend on the specifics of your building and requirements etc.
Any system will need to be designed for the head of water pressure it is being asked to resist - in this case of flooding that is above ground level! It only works if the water can't over-top the basement and come in from above, eg down the internal stairs. If that is the aim you also need to consider the flood resilience of the ground floor too, and how the water is kept out of, and ideally away from, the property itself to begin with.
Find an independend consultant to design you a system, do not go to a supplier who has a vested interest in selling you products (often with heavily caveated warranties like "we only cover the goods themselves, not consequential damages or losses" - i.e we only pay to fix the membrane, not the finishes removed in getting to it, or the contents that were damaged when it sprung a leak). Probably either a waterproofing consultant or a suitably qualified architect.