Bent Disk Brake,Anyone had one?

Nevakonaza

Nevakonaza

Nevakonaza

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Joined
7 Jan 2009
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Hey chaps,

Anyone ever had a Bent Disc Brake on their bike?..did the problem correct itself on its own after riding it in some or did you have to get it replaced?

Bike shop told me mine was slightly bent but that it could fix itself with some breaking/getting the disk hot and it could go back to shape.

Otherwise they said it will be £30 for a new disk.

I think what happened,The "other" bike shop i taken the wheel to a few days ago (to have an inner tube replaced) they either dropped the wheel or the wheel fell over,Either way the disk become slightly bent in their hands. :mad: ,But accidents happen. :/
 
I don't have a bike with disc brakes but it would be dependant on what the rotor is made of, but odds on that it won't straighten itself but you will get loads of brake judder if it even spins properly between the pads dependant on how bent it is. If it is very slight, you might get away with it and may not notice.
 
Thanks for replying fellas. :cool:

Bear said:
I don't have a bike with disc brakes but it would be dependant on what the rotor is made of, but odds on that it won't straighten itself but you will get loads of brake judder if it even spins properly between the pads dependant on how bent it is. If it is very slight, you might get away with it and may not notice.
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Well i went home on it this morning (2 miles),And even only using the front (bent) brake i didn't feel any judder or any issues with breaking,It defiantly stops and you cannot move the bike at all if you squeeze the brake fully and push forward..but it just makes a noise that was not there before.

scrivz69 said:
Change is ASAP of it will just lead to problems and you don't mess about with brakes.
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Well i was going to,But he didn't have a suitable 160 size (i think he said)brake disk in stock and wouldn't get any in till the middle of next week,Then id have to wait for it to be done so you can add another 2-3 days on top as its a large busy shop.

I cant do without the bike for a week,I use it daily to get to and from work you see,I mean if the problem doesn't go away then of course it will have to go in and i will have to do without it but i thought id do what he said and see if the issue goes itself.
 
If you can't feel there is any problem, then you may as well carrying on riding it while the shop gets stock for a replacement. You could fit it yourself as it should be a 5 minute job as its only 6 bolts or a lock ring, then you won't be without your bike.
 
 
Bent rotor? They must've dropped something heavy on it as they don't just bend. Cant see a bend coming out on its own either, certainly not before doing some other damage.
 
Rotors can go out of shape quite easily. They certainly wont straighten up through use though. You can bend back by hand or with some sort of non marring tool. Most rotors have slight bends in from new anyway, every avid rotor i've owned has been slightly off, shimano seem to be the straightest i've encountered but not perfect.
 
Wow,glad i asked here!

Okay so i know i can get a new disk for a tenner,Cheers for that link.

Just one thing,Can i change the stock disks with better higher quality disks such as these as they have an option for 160mm version.
https://www.evanscycles.com/hope-floating-disc-rotor-EV269181

Or would my stock brake calipers not be up to the job?


My bike is a Cube Analog CMBT 29er 2016
http://www.cube.eu/uk/products/mtb-hardtail/analog/cube-analog-greynblue-2016/

EDIT - Under close inspection it looks like my disks are like this

4RfT22m.png

NOT like this with the holes.

5yw4K4u.png
 
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The 6 bolt pattern is still standard. All that matters is that and the size. I'd even be tempted to consider something like this:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-one-piece-stainless-disc-rotor-160mm/

More expensive discs are really just going to be a bit lighter, which isn't a factor at all unless you're competing at a really high level. If you want to improve braking performance, you'd probably do that with new pads.
 
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PermaBanned said:
The 6 bolt pattern is still standard. All that matters is that and the size.
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6 bolt might be the more common standard, but he's not gonna be able to fit 6bolt to a centrelock hub without an adapter.

You can get an official centrelock rotor here for £15.99:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-slx-centre-lock-160mm-disc-rotor/

Nevakonaza said:
Do you think these would be any better than the stock disks i got on?
Click to expand...

Personally I wouldn't spend more than double for the icetechs unless you've specifically had issues with brake fade due to heat build up. Otherwise, I'd get the regular shimano ones.
 
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Right yeah, I was mistaken on that front. Was thinking they meant the design of the rotor with the holes above the mounting ones for some reason. Bit of a brain fart :p

But yeah, still would basically just get the cheapest ones you can. Pads and calipers will make much more of a difference to performance.
 
Do not have discs either but will a warped disc damage the calliper ? (or does it float completely)

I guess you considered going back to shop that may/did damage the disc, a reputable shop would consider an 'at cost' compromise ?
 
jpaul said:
Do not have discs either but will a warped disc damage the calliper ? (or does it float completely)

I guess you considered going back to shop that may/did damage the disc, a reputable shop would consider an 'at cost' compromise ?
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Nah,From what ive read online about the bike shop that changed my inner tube,if you have any issues they dont want to know,How true this is i dont know but i cant be bothered with the hassle to be honest,i just want the issue sorted...and i cant really prove they damaged the disk,I know for sure it wasn't me though.

Ive contacted a LARGE bike shop near me to get it in for both disks changed and a service so this should get it all set up correctly again. (fingers crossed)
 
Yeh I've bent disks back, just takes a keen eye to identify the part that's rubbing, so you need to get eyes down each side of the disk whilst slowly turning tth wheel, to see where it's fouling on the pad, then just use some mole grips or pliers to gently tease them back to straight.
 
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