better help than google.(fencing)

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Hi

As some know I have to clean my garden and find a way to get this rubble to the tip at a cheap price, Well I've been having a look around for fencing and cannot find what I want but I've been looking into how to do fencing by a single person (by myself) all I see are people with others doing this stuff, I'm not one for having people help ( personal as I don't get blaming others for my mistakes)

I have not did any one this before and do not know how to mix what ever I need or what I will need to keep the post's in, would anyone know this stuff to help me along as I've looked on google and really people who show this and that really have wasted their time doing it as it don't help anyone.


p.s: sorry if i sound like a 5 year old lol
 
I guess the post holding is the only tricky bit?

At a 45deg angle, hammer in a few bits of 1" wood all around the post, min 2.
Level the post and then hold it in place by screwing it to these bits of wood.

Two bags of ready made postmix go in the hole, tamp down, add half a paint can of water.

The rest is whatever the video says, everyone has their preferred way of doing it. In America they just use gravel, not concrete, I'll have to try that one day.
 
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So there is a mix already done for post's, I seen on b&q that they sell these stands you put in the ground and put the post in it and put the mix in so it stays lvl do i really need these.

I'm going to get 8ft post and 6x6 feather fencing but sure if i need a 8ft or not as the ground has a lot of cley being a council house.
 
We have fencers on site a lot, some putting in ply hoarding and some final fencing, the trick is to get deep enough to hold the posts first, if you are capable of digging the holes properly the rest is easy.

You need

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Long-H...-21301-LH-FS?gclid=CIWlutmjzbcCFYTItAod3lUAnA

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-post-hole-digger-17lb/62496

The post hole diggers / screws are a waste of time really

It's brutal hard work, you won't get it done in five minutes, I'd suggest 2ft extra in the ground definitely, then post mix from a builders merchants not the stuff at Homebase

http://reviews.wickes.co.uk/9987-en_gb/221100/reviews.htm

One per post, it says pour in and fill with water but I prefer emptying into a barrow, knocking up a bit and pouring in, do about six an a time then you can pull string lines and levels, if you do one by one it gets tedious
 
It's a bit more expense, but I like the concrete runners at the bottom, fencing always rots at the bottom first so it helps raise it off the ground (rain always splashes back up 200mm).

Not seen the stands you referred to but they aren't required. A few inches of hardcore at the bottom will help with drainage. Clay soil needs a wider base, so cut in a bit if you can (at 2ft down this is quite hard though)
 
You don't need post base fixings, that is for if you are bolting the post to solid ground (block wall, slabs, concrete floor, etc)

All you need is post mix, b&q sell it for about 4.20 a bag. Dig the hole, get the post lined up in the hole (tool station sell a spirit level that screws to the post for about a fiver), 1/3rd fill the hole with water, then pour in the bag of post mix. The post usually moves a bit while you're adding the post mix so be quick to set it straight again as it goes off QUICK!
 
The post fittings are these

4701.jpg


I was on about getting gravel boards but not sure about it.

I will be getting everything from b&q unless I can get a better deal from a yard as I need it all delivered and over so much b&q are free delivery.

I will be doing one post at a time, The wife can help but not much as she hates getting to mess you big long heavy things.


So will the mix go first then water or water first then the mix? or will this say on the bag? I would get a post spade but i don't feel like buying and never use it again will just a normal spade do?
 
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I am in the process of adding an extra shed base in our garden and during this process I decided I wanted to hide the backside of next doors ugly block built outbuilding. As such I opted to erect a single 2.4m bay myself.
I have done a bit of fencing in the past, but this is by far my best effort and it wasn't really difficult at all on my own. Some things that may help.

I dug out holes using a combination of a fencing bar and an old rusty shovel. Whilst novelty gadgets may have made this a bit quicker, they were more than adequate to do the job. Using 4" 8' posts I dug out to 2' with approx. 8" of free space all the way around the post.

For one bay, I just used one of the rails to line up my second post, but on a long run probably easier to use a string line.

Posts were dipped in a bit of bitumen paint to just over 24" to try and protect them a bit.

I used a 6 to 1 (and a bit) semi dry mix of ballast and cement. Two 25kg bags of ballast per post. It worked out cheaper than postcrete and as long as you level,tamp,check, level,tamp,check ..... as you go, doesn't require any additional bits of timber etc to keep the post upright.

In terms of getting the post level, you can use couple of bricks to wedge the post roughly level and in place, and then just pop them out once you've got a bit of concrete in there and tamped down.

As I was using concrete, I left each post go off over night.

Once posts were set firm, I cut three rails to take the feather boards.
If you are using ready made panels this wont really apply, but the trick I found with fitting the rails on my own was to place a spare rail against the 'second' post and roughly level the rail by letting this take one end whilst I held the other at the first post. I could have asked the wife, but a piece of wood did just as good a job :)
Once its almost spot on, put a nail in the top corner of the rail, but don't drive it all the way home. This will allow a bit of adjustment to get it all level at the second post.

I used 6" round wire nails to fix the rails and predrilled each rail with a small pilot hole so I wasn't hammering for days to secure each rail.

When fitting the top rail, try and take the stress of the top of the post by placing your free hand behind it. The top of the post will bend and flex being so far from the ground.

After that it was just a question of nailing the feather boards on. (Though having an OCD moment, I did find myself measuring and levelling each board precisely)

Hardly rocket science, but surprisingly rewarding :)
 
lol thx for the info guys i've started on my garden clean up so will be about next week i will start the fencing i will take all the advice you have given me to work.
 
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