Bleeding breaks?

-=Maxed=-

-=Maxed=-

-=Maxed=-

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I need to sort out my girlfriends breaks they are shocking but i havnt done anything on break apart from helping with disks n pads (didnt do much myself)

Its a vauxhall tigra 1.6 so only front disks. The disks and pads are ok just a lot of travel on the peddle before somthing happens! and even when it dose they feel spungy.

Is it just a case of taking the wheel off then loosening the bleed nippel and pumping the breaks?

Or is there more to it? MOT is due next week so i want to sort them out.

Cheers
 
Yea, i think you need to get a special machine, also you cant let in any air otherwise youl have to do it over again :P
 
You don't need a special machine.

Just a pipe and a bottle.

I bought a pack of pipe and bottle for £5 from Halfords as they were sold out of pipe.

- Take the rubber cover off of the bleed nipple, dont lose it.
- Push the pipe on the nipple.
- Loosen the nipple.
- Get someone to pump the brake pedal, brake fluid will flow up the pipe (I say up as you should have the pipe and bottle above the bleed valve)
- More than likely you will see bubbles of air in the pipe too, this is why the pedal is spongy.
- Keep pumping the pedal until you see no more air bubbles, I would give it a few extra pumps just to be sure too.
- Tighten up the bleed valve (before removing the pipe).
- Remove the pipe.
- Replace the cover.
- Top up the brake fluid and repeat on ALL of the other corners.
- Brake fluid is quite corrosive so wash any of it off of yourself and your car immediately. It will definately wreck the paintwork of the car if it was to get onto it.

It is recommended that you start on the corner furthest from the driver, so rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. I am not sure why this is though and don't think it actually makes a difference.

I bled the brakes on the Rover I have got at the moment and it made them about 5x more effective, I was really pleased with the result.
 
Cause the brakes are split circuit / diagonally...

Keep the pressure on the pedal while you tighten up the bleed nipple otherwise air can come back in.

Oh and i think you need to take the brake fluid res cap off before you start bleeding or nowt will come out.
 
Firestar_3x said:
Keep the pressure on the pedal while you tighten up the bleed nipple otherwise air can come back in.

Oh and i think you need to take the brake fluid res cap off before you start bleeding or nowt will come out.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, knew I forgot some important info. Cheers Mark.
 
Those rubber ipes with the split in them to act as a one way valve are fairly useless, they don't stop air entering the bleed nipple threads. To properly bleed brakes:

Put clear pipe on bleed nipple and put other end of pipe into a jar which already has some brake fluid in (with the end submerged). This way you can easily see if any air is comming out, and should the assistant release pedal before you close the nipple, you don't get too much air sucked back in.

Start:
Have assisant press down on pedal
Open bleed nipple slowly
Have assiant shout when pedal is on floor
Close bleed nipple
Tell assistant to release pedal
Goto Start

Sounds complex but once you get into the rythym it's quite fast and no risk of bleeding air back into the system.

For one man operations the Easybleed kits are ok, providing you have the correct adapter for your master cylinder. Not so keen on the vacuum kits, as you have to make sure the bleed nipple threads are well sealed for them to work effectively.
 
-=Maxed=- If you are unsure about any aspect of the job don't even start. Ineffective brakes are very dangerous. As it is your girlfriend's car and you sound pretty inexperienced I would let the garage do the job. At least you will have peace of mind.
Many years ago I replaced the rear braking system and one of the front calipers on my sister's car, including new brake pipes. This job also involved bleeding the brakes. The job went well and she was very happy. A few days later my brother in law took the car to the garage to have my job checked over. Everything was fine but I felt quite miffed. He needed that peace of mind and I understood that in the end.

PeterT.
 
i'd be more concerned with why the brakes need bleeding at all?
unless the reservoir has run dry recently or you've replaced a pipe, then they shouldn't need bleeding.
 
Ive done the two man method many times and it is really the best way IMO, much less chance of air getting back in. Although i only do half strokes on the mastercylinder so you avoid getting the seals on *** virgin part of *** bore, probably makes no difference but im happier doing half strokes.


I might try getting a good solid jar and getting an vaccum take off from the engine to make my very own vaccuum bleeder for doing it one man. Just suck the fluid straight out the caliper then. :D
 
Jobs done and made a big difference.... I just wanted to check up to see if there was any thing i should know about this type or car before i started! im no wiz with a car but i know how to bleed brakes...
 
Thats why i said i KNOW how to bleed them! I havnt done them before now but i know whats involved! and like i said i just wanted to check how it was done and if there were any tip i needed to know...
 
-=Maxed=- said:
Thats why i said i KNOW how to bleed them! I havnt done them before now but i know whats involved! and like i said i just wanted to check how it was done and if there were any tip i needed to know...
Click to expand...
Apologies for offering my advice.
 
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