Bleeding EK-KIT L360 Watercooling Kit?

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13 Mar 2015
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Morning folks. My previous builds have used self contained/closed loop "out of the box" liquid coolers and this is my first water cooled build (please excuse my ignorance). I went for a EK-KIT L360 starters kit from EK (https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-892-EK&groupid=962&catid=1532). Kit has some good step by step instructions but I'm curious how to effectively bleed the system safely. I have a new Phanteks Enthoo Primo case in which I've mounted the 360 radiator horizontal in the top (inlet/outlet pointing downwards) and the reservoir/pump combo in the bottom. My main question is: how can I get the air out of the system when it comes to priming it for the first time? The only way I can think to do it is unbolt the pump/reservoir base legs (while powered) and try and get it (while full) to a higher point that the radiator to encourage the air to the high point? What would people advise? Thanks. :)
 
Added a photo of the setup:
LXgYlPn.jpg
 
There should be a fill hole in the top
Of your res fill it to the top and switch the pump on. Keep filling it up as it pumps it should reach a point where the res is always nearlry full. Dont fill it right to the top, leave a small gap for the air to settle.
 
I have the same combo res/pump as you do. The guidance NobbCannon gave is what I did. Make sure you use the jumper on the 24pin mobo cable to fire up the pump only to move the fluid around and you will be fine. I was surprised at how easy this was and I had no issues with air blockage.
I would advice that you mange the DDC pump via PWN on the CPU header of your mobo and aim to lower the speed of the pump. This will reduce pump heat and noise which are the only downsides to the DDC.
 
Thanks for the response guys. I just assumed that, with the radiator being the high point, even if I tried my best to top the system up, that I would still be fighting an air pocket in the radiator? Maybe need to rethink my logic? :)
 
Nothing wrong with that logic. The only difference here is that the pump is creating pressure, moving water and air very well. The DDC pump is know for being able to overcome resistance very well in tight spaces, with such a small unit.
 
System is leak testing and seems to be looking ok. Aesthetically I'd have maybe liked some clear hose but I'm not going to rock the boat at this stage. Will leave it running overnight to make sure nothing is amiss.

B8O9xZo.jpg


Have gently rocked the case and I think the majority of the large bubbles are out - I get micro bubbles ATM but hope they will clear with a few cycles. Sounds like an old HDD with the micro bubbles in the system.

Thanks for all the above info. :)
 
Looking really good and the start of more to come no doubt!. I guarantee that you will want to add a GPU next and then you could swap out the tubing for Primochil clear and some great Mayhams fluid.
As long as you run the CPU and GPU at stock, you can getaway with the 360 RAD. You have effectively got the equivalent of the new Predator 360 plus tube res so you are set.
 
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