Blue Microphone problems.

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Joined
2 Oct 2017
Posts
7
Sooo Overclockers rejected my RMA saying that the microphone works fine.
But infact its confirmed to me by Blue Microphones that it is a faulty microphone.

The microphone I have received worked perfectly fine out of the box.
Out of nowhere one day it began to display itself as an "Advanced Audio Device"
Instead of the usual "Microphone (Snowball)".
The sound quality became AWFUL as well as it began being detected as a speaker rather than a microphone. I have tried everything, different USB ports, different devices, reinstalling and uninstalling in device manager but nothing has fixed it. I read up on the Blue official website in FAQ under point - 23 - That this is not fixable and may only be replaced or fixed by a specialist also i spoke to one of the staff and said that i should contact the store where i bought it as they should replace it without an issue.

Does anyone know if there is anything else that I could do? The microphone used to sound great and now it is so bad.. its horrible, worse then my mic in a headset for £25. Many people had this issue and i dont understand why Overclockers rejects this problem.
 
Why dont you get Blue Microphones to contact OCUK, surely they can sort it out between themself if Manufacturer already confirmed microphone being faulty.
 
So OcUK have had the microphone back and have tested it? Assuming that is correct, odd that they have not found the same problem, unless something else is going on.

When you put, 'I have tried everything, different USB ports, different devices, reinstalling and uninstalling in device manager but nothing has fixed it.' When you say 'different devices', do you mean you tried the microphone with a different computer/laptop?
 
Just a thought...

Not a Windows 10 issue is it by any chance? Seems a lot of USB audio devices are having problems lately. My Schiit Modi DAC has worked faultlessly for three years but around two months ago (after a Windows update) it started becoming "unrecognised" by Windows 10, resulting in me having to do a major USB port and reboot dance before it's recognised again. Seems the only surefire remedy is to use a powered hub as it's something to do with Windows limiting the power available via USB.
 
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