Brake fluid bleeding/change

Unicorn

Unicorn

Unicorn

Soldato
Joined
24 Dec 2011
Posts
4,735
Hi just after some advice for some tools/equipment i will need for bleeding my brakes and changing fluid to all 4 calipers. And which caliper to start at/finish at to get the best flush of old fluids out? The cars 6 and never had a fluid change and its suffering spongy brakes so i assume someones just topped the master off with more fluid and somehow introduced air.

Clutch is suffering spongy too but its hydraulic clutch will this solve the clutch problem also?
 
Most people will tell you to work from the wheel farthest from the MS toward it. So rear left, rear right, front right, front left. Most modern cars it doesn't really matter, as the back and front are seperate systems. I've certainly never noticed much difference bleeding in a specific order.

As for the clutch, yes, it's basically the same system as the brakes, so bleeding it will reduce any fade etc that's been felt over the years. However, if it's feeling very very spongy, it may be the release bearing needing replaced.
 
Thanks! I assume the bleeding plug will be on the clutch slave cylinder or near it for the clutch system? If im doing it at the same time as the brakes should i do the clutch before brakes or after would you say?
 
Great! Ill get myself an easy bleed kit or get some clear tubing/bottle with some brake fluid in bottom the old way haha. Don't suppose you have a rough idea how much more fluid ill need if im bleeding the clutch also? Its a vauxhall astra h.
 
Make sure you get a spanner like this:

Ysbz9U2.jpg

Usually 10mm one end, 11mm other end, check your nipples though.

Do not use a normal open ended spanner on the bleed nipples (callipers and clutch slave cylinder)!
 
InvaderGIR said:
Do not use a normal open ended spanner on the bleed nipples (callipers and clutch slave cylinder)!
Click to expand...

I've never had a problem using the correct sized ring spanner and putting it over the nipple before the pipe. I just make sure it's clean and free of crud first. It doesn't have to be, and shouldn't be, he-man tight.
 
Howard said:
I've never had a problem using the correct sized ring spanner and putting it over the nipple before the pipe. I just make sure it's clean and free of crud first. It doesn't have to be, and shouldn't be, he-man tight.
Click to expand...

For the sake of £2 or so it's better to be safe than sorry. Just because you don't do it up stupidly tight, doesn't mean someone else hasn't. :p

Thinking about it though, bleed nipples are usually ~8mm so the 5 sided spanner is of more use to actual brake lines...I blame being up early and not thinking fully. :D

sigma said:
I prefer to use the "two person" method rather than easi-bleed.
Click to expand...

I'm the same. I don't really like the ones that run off tyre pressure and the 'reverse' ones (go onto the calliper and push fluid back to the res) can knacker seals on some systems so I'd avoid that too.
Two man method is easy, you can get anyone to sit and press the peddle whilst opening and closing the nipple.
 
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Same, I get a volunteer to sit in the car and press the pedal according to my "down!" and "up!" instructions.
 
To speed up the process and do a better job with less fluid it is a good idea to suck 99% of the fluid out of the reservoir before you start the bleed process - that way you haven't got to pump the usually dark and contaminated fluid through the entire system to get rid of it.

A big syringe works well.
 
Eazi bleed all the way, so so easy. I do the bulk of the task with the eazi bleed then a quick once over with the pedal pumping procedure just to be sure, never failed me yet.

It doesn't work for bleeding the clutch on an e36 though, had to remove the slave, turn it upside down and bleed manually then refit. Nightmare job when it's 2am and -6 out :/
 
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