Brand new machine, not running as intended

Tunahamster

Tunahamster

Tunahamster

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8 Mar 2019
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12
Hi guys, im hoping this is the correct place to ask for support!

I'd like to mention firstly, im not a complete potatoe when it comes to PC's, Im not a professional, nor is IT in my trade, but I've been deeply invested into PC's since a young age so i have a reasonable knowledge.

- PC SPECS I will post at the bottom of this post -

So I chose OcUK this time round for my new system! I received this PC yesterday whilst at work and eagerly anticipated home time to try out my new beast!

Unfortunately however I've had problems from the get-go. Upon hooking my pc up and booting it up for the first time, I'm greeted with 'No Signal' from my monitor. At first I thought it was most likely a monitor issue as I had problems with this monitor when I first purchased it for my old system. So I drove myself and my new system to my friends house, hooked up to his HDMI monitor to test, same thing, no signal. All lights where booting up, RGB keyboard, RGB Ram, MOBO and LED strips where all illuminated, but no signal on monitor.

We decided to remove the RAM stick in slot 3 to see if it would boot with the one stick, still no signal

Next we decided to move the RAM stick in slot 1, into slot 2. Booted the system up, boom, straight into bios, the monitor was alive! (currently no OS installed hence straight into bios)

So from that point I went back home and tried both RAM sticks in slot 2 / 4. Again the machine booted up, and so I resumed with a fresh installation of Windows 10.

After windows installed I continued to install relevant hardware drivers. Upon finishing installation of drivers I downloaded and installed RainbowSix Siege to give me new PC a quick test drive before I went to bed. Unfortunately I was greeted with nothing higher than 60fps, not to mention intermittent FPS drops down to 10 - 30fps, for it then to shoot back up to 60FPS for 5 or so seconds, for it then to drop back down again. I mean this was practically unplayable, ran way worse than my old machine that is by far, inferior to this new machine.

After a bunch of scrolling on google for no answers I decided to try putting the RAM sticks in the correct positions of 1 / 3, to my surprise, the PC booted up without a problem, and everything seemed to load faster! It booted my start-up apps faster, loaded the game faster, even gave me a consistent 120+ FPS on Rainbow Six Siege, my face lit up with a massive grin as I thought to myself, I FIXED IT!

So the next day comes along and the hype for high FPS competitive gaming was real! I got home, booted up R6 Siege... 10 - 30 fps.

I thought to myself perhaps there is a conflict between my hardware and R6 Siege. Fortunately I had left the PC downloading a bunch of games overnight , including Battlefield V. So I booted BFV up.

I couldn't even get into a match. The menu was super laggy, once I finished loading the map, the screen was black and the cursor was visible but had a lot of delay. I could still hear in-game audio.

So now im at a point of thinking, do I send my PC back to overclockers? This really is my last resort, I would much prefer to trouble shoot he issue myself! I just don't know where to go next. To me this sounds like a RAM issue. I still have my old system here with 16gb of ddr3 corsair vengeance. Should I try them? Any help would be mega appreciated!

Thanks for taking time to read

Dan


Customized OcUK Kinetic ZX Configurable Coffee Lake

Case - Phanteks Enthoo Evolv
Graphics Card - Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Gaming OC 8192MB
Heatsink - Asetek 240mm 670LT Thick Radiator + Premium Retention kit
Memory - Team Group Night Hawk RGH 16GB (2x8gb) DDR4
MOBO - Gigabyte Z390 UD Intel (Socket 1151)
Processor - i7-9700k 3.6ghz
Power Supply - Kolink kl-600m 600W 80 Plus Bronze Modular
Storage - Samsung 500GB 860 EVO SSD + Seagate BarraCuda 1TB 7200RPM SATA
Water Cooling - EK Water Blocks
(As you can see these specs definitely cover the requirements to games such as Rainbow Six Siege and Battlefield V)
 
Tunahamster said:
Unfortunately I was greeted with nothing higher than 60fps, not to mention intermittent FPS drops down to 10 - 30fps, for it then to shoot back up to 60FPS for 5 or so seconds, for it then to drop back down again. I mean this was practically unplayable, ran way worse than my old machine that is by far, inferior to this new machine.

Power Supply - Kolink kl-600m 600W 80 Plus Bronze Modular
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Did you check CPU temperatures if there was anything corresponding in them to FPS changes?
Would be good to monitor CPU load/temps while trying gaming.
Aida64, Hardware Sensors Monitor, Intel Extreme Tuning Utility/Power Gadget, or OCCT could show graphs.
Or MSI Afterburner.


And that PSU is total garbage for PC with expensive graphics card, overpriced no upgrade path platform CPU and certainly more expensive than heatpipe coolers waterpipe cooler with likely little if any cooling per noise advantage.
There simply wouldn't be excuses for medieval 80+ Bronze PSU in such PC even if it were quality PSU.
Something what such dishonestly named PSU isn't: It's 500W PSU at most.
 
Hey EsaT that's for replying, I did have concerns about the PSU once I had originaly ordered the machine, however after talking to a member of staff at OcUk over the phone he reassured me that the PSU would be appropriate for the PC, and so I took his word for it.

Could this potentially be an issue? Is my PSU going to pop due to strain?

In response to
EsaT said:
overpriced no upgrade path platform CPU and certainly more expensive than heatpipe coolers waterpipe cooler with likely little if any cooling per noise advantage.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Are you implying that my CPU is also no good? I was under the impression the 9700k was amongst one of the best cpus available.

Also I did not check temps, I assumed that the cooling would have handled the stock CPU
 
It's a 450W PSU:

wbfgjfB.png


Has enough power, on paper. Long as you only overclock either CPU or GPU. I wouldn't OC both of them.

These types of cheapo PSUs kill your components quicker than a good one and isn't a good companion for an overclockable 9700K and RTX 2080 (unless you told the guy on the phone you weren't going to overclock). The 2 year warranty says it all, when other PSUs have 5, 7 and 10 or more. Although having been built by OcUK, the system is covered by 3 year warranty.
 
Hey Danny cheers for the info, I didn't tell the guy on the phone wether or not I was going to overclock it, simply asked him if the PSU would be appropriate, and he confirmed.

And to be honest I wasnt planning on overclocking just yet, I feel even at stock the GPU and CPU will handle most games I throw at it without a problem

One of the reasons I purchased a pre built machine this time round was for the cable management and warranty! ( my previous machine builds literally would spill their guts with wires when you open the side case, it was also a mission to get the case closed without a wire hitting a fan, don't judge me ;)

Is cable management on these new cases much of a task? If I where to purchase a better PSU re doing the cables is something I'll have to do
 
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Tunahamster said:
Is cable management on these new cases much of a task? If I where to purchase a better PSU re doing the cables is something I'll have to do
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Yep, cable management on a new, good case, is a lot easier. And a fully modular (not semi) PSU can be very handy for 24-pin ATX connector on motherboard that is sometimes very tight, and can be a pain to detach and insert with the motherboard mounted inside. With fully modular you can detach from the PSU and take out the mobo if need be so the connector doesn't get damaged. To be fair I've only experienced this twice but it was those times I wished PSU was fully modular. Either semi-modular or full, will also help lessen the spaghetti, of course.

That's yet another lie in the Kolink KL-600M name by the way. It's called "Modular". It's not, it's semi-modular. Does specify semi-modular in the description though (devil in the detail).
 
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Good stuff, I'll keep that in mind. If the troubleshooting dosent provide results I guess I'll have to return the machine anyway, in which case I'll get them to fit a new PSU for me.

Hopefully I can resolve this with a little help! Just waiting for this memtest to finish which is taking longer than brexit
 
Tunahamster said:
Good stuff, I'll keep that in mind. If the troubleshooting dosent provide results I guess I'll have to return the machine anyway, in which case I'll get them to fit a new PSU for me.

Hopefully I can resolve this with a little help! Just waiting for this memtest to finish which is taking longer than brexit
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Hopefully it'll find some errors. The worst thing is when it doesn't because it doesn't mean there aren't any, just that it can take longer and more runs to catch them lol. Anyway, if it passes, fair chance of no errors and start checking other stuff. Just don't discount it completely so you can come back to that if need be.
 
Okay so I've made 2 passes on the memtest, 0 errors found.

I've looked at RAM settings on cpu-id, and to be honest I don't know what im looking for there as the troubleshooting guide is a little vague there.

HOWEVER, big however; should have checked sooner, all cores are running at 100 degrees Celsius AT IDLE, according to both HW Monitor + AIDA64

I've felt the radiator, cool air is being blown out of it, the water block feels luke warm / warm. So perhaps a faulty temp sensor? Are there 8 sensors in total, one per core? Or maybe CPU is genuinely getting that hot at idle?!

Also worth mentioning, overall CPU utilization is at 4 - 6% at idle and none of the cores have dropped below 96 degrees nor gone over 100 degrees ( they've all maxed at 100C / 212F )
 
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Tunahamster said:
Could this potentially be an issue? Is my PSU going to pop due to strain?

Are you implying that my CPU is also no good? I was under the impression the 9700k was amongst one of the best cpus available.

Also I did not check temps, I assumed that the cooling would have handled the stock CPU
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Bad/failing PSU doesn't behave like some worker taking drunk days off the work/doing bad work in drunk days and good in next.
So right now it's working, or what ever level of performance that means for it.
Just don't expect it to survive many years of daily gaming.

9700K is certainly good CPU right now and faster in games than current Ryzens, which are made on originally Samsung's phone/tablet CPU node and are clock speed "handicapped".
But Intel overprices their CPUs seriously compared to actual performance advantage and especially considering it won't stay long as high end CPU.
At summer 8 cores/16 threads with at least same performance is likely available for below £250 and for hundred more there's likely 12c/24t model.
(which can be put into current AMD motherboards)


Waterpipe cooler has lot more weak points/things which can go wrong than heatpipe cooler.
In heatpipe cooler only thing which can fail is fan and its failure doesn't remove all cooling capacity.
In waterpipe cooler all cooling power depends on good circulation of coolant.
And if say pump isn't working properly there could be moments without really any cooling, which would make CPU run at overheating limits and throttle badly even at idle.

Just like this:
Tunahamster said:
HOWEVER, big however; should have checked sooner, all cores are running at 100 degrees Celsius AT IDLE, according to both HW Monitor + AIDA64

I've felt the radiator, cool air is being blown out of it, the water block feels luke warm / warm. So perhaps a faulty temp sensor? Are there 8 sensors in total, one per core? Or maybe CPU is genuinely getting that hot at idle?!
Click to expand...
That's exactly what bad/failed waterpipe cooler would cause.
So I think we can focus on that.

If coolant is flowing properly one tube should feel warmer than other. (which returns coolant from radiator)
If both tubes are always equally warm, that's sign of no significant coolant flow.

EDIT:
Improper CPU block mounting could also cause problem, but it's very unlikely that it could work perfectly in some days.
 
Yeah focus on pump. But use HWiNFO64 to monitor temps etc. Report back.

Also, something I don't understand, why is there an EK waterblock with an Asetek 670LT AIO?
 
Thanks for the replies guys,

So the pipes are almost identical in temperatures, they are both pretty cool, wouldn't even say luke warm, however one is probably very slightly warmer than the other, although that could just be me wanting one to be warmer than the other! The temperature at the water block is perhaps a few degrees warmer, definitely doesn't feel like there is something cooking underneath at 100C! Also I would expect some form of water boiling / bubbling noise to occur if its reaching those sort of temperature?

The CPU has been under 10% utilization for the last 2 hours now and still sitting between 97C - 100C at all cores (HWMonitor)

Danny75 said:
Also, something I don't understand, why is there an EK waterblock with an Asetek 670LT AIO?
Click to expand...

No Idea, I didn't question that as it was an anomaly to me, that is just how the PC came built, or at least is specified on the spec sheet

Also would it be possible to link these issues to my framerate issues? Even if the CPU's aren't all sitting at 100C and the sensors are providing wrong readings, could there be some MOBO implementation that prevents or denies CPU / GPU power demands to prevent overheating, which in return would cause framerate lag?
 
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