Bright clouds on fully overcast day - bleed/overexposure

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Hey guys,

Started off taking photos as a hobby some 12 months ago (with a D60 on loan) and I'm having some trouble with bright white clouds in taking photos. Basically, when taking photos on a bright day that's completely overcast I find that the sky looks really overexposed (i.e. blank) and bleeds onto the landscape. When I try to counteract that I get a really dark scene with relatively detailed clouds. I mostly use my 10-24mm Nikon lens on my D5500. I don't use a tripod. In these conditions I tend to use a Hoya Pro1 CPL.

This isn't a problem on clear or partially cloudy days as the blue sky is a gentler contrast to the landscape.

Some google searches haven't been too fruitful so personal advice or references to some websites would be very helpful.
 
I don't do any editing or have any software at present. Any good free/low cost software? On a bit of strict budget as I'm about to go back to university for 4 years. I will look into a graduated filter.
 
I don't do any editing or have any software at present. Any good free/low cost software? On a bit of strict budget as I'm about to go back to university for 4 years. I will look into a graduated filter.
Free - gimp
Cheap(ish) - get the student edition (e.g. discounted price) of Adobe Lightroom or the Adobe Photography subscription which also includes LR & Photoshop
 
I'm quite prepared to pay £60 to get the student edition. That is for version 5, is that okay? I can only find 6 on subscription which I'm not too keen on.
 
I'm quite prepared to pay £60 to get the student edition. That is for version 5, is that okay? I can only find 6 on subscription which I'm not too keen on.
v6 isn't available as a student / teacher edition sadly, they are pushing people towards the subscription model with that release so only available standalone versions are as an upgrade or full fat version. Nothing wrong with 5 though, it does lack some of the features of 6 but none that i would personally call a 'killer' feature but has the potential to get better (gpu acceleration is in it's infancy in LR6).

Try gimp it'll cost nothing if it works great, if not grab the 30 day trial of LR5 and see if that works for you before parting with money.
 
v6 isn't available as a student / teacher edition sadly, they are pushing people towards the subscription model with that release so only available standalone versions are as an upgrade or full fat version. Nothing wrong with 5 though, it does lack some of the features of 6 but none that i would personally call a 'killer' feature but has the potential to get better (gpu acceleration is in it's infancy in LR6).

Try gimp it'll cost nothing if it works great, if not grab the 30 day trial of LR5 and see if that works for you before parting with money.

Gimp is great if a little confusing at times and ometime lacking in features compared to paid for software, I've found it to be able to do pretty much everything i need from a processing perspective but I try to go with a pretty light touch.

Also don't underestimate the software that comes with the camera, I'm not a Nikon user but I have used DPP that comes with Canon cameras for RAW processing on and off over the years and while it is nothing like as powerful as lightroom it is simple and quick and a good way to learn without all the options. The latest versions of lightroom can be quite overwhelming to the newbie.
 
Hey guys,

Started off taking photos as a hobby some 12 months ago (with a D60 on loan) and I'm having some trouble with bright white clouds in taking photos. Basically, when taking photos on a bright day that's completely overcast I find that the sky looks really overexposed (i.e. blank) and bleeds onto the landscape. When I try to counteract that I get a really dark scene with relatively detailed clouds. I mostly use my 10-24mm Nikon lens on my D5500. I don't use a tripod. In these conditions I tend to use a Hoya Pro1 CPL.

This isn't a problem on clear or partially cloudy days as the blue sky is a gentler contrast to the landscape.

Some google searches haven't been too fruitful so personal advice or references to some websites would be very helpful.


Wait for a non overcast day, preferably scattered clouds and take the photo at sunrise.

If there is full cloud cover, but th clouds have a decent texture and contrast then an ND-grad filter will help. But if the you have a boring sky then there is nothing you can do.


One thing to note is that composition should help here. In general the sky line should only be about 1/5th of the vertical height, nothing like the 1/3rd or 1/2 begginers think. If 1/5th if the frame is a blown white then It will just act as framing.
 
One thing to note is that composition should help here. In general the sky line should only be about 1/5th of the vertical height, nothing like the 1/3rd or 1/2 begginers think. If 1/5th if the frame is a blown white then It will just act as framing.

This interests me as surely it depends entirely on the actual shot and the sky in question? and setting a 'rule' of 1/5th is no different to sticking to the rule of thirds?
 
Hey guys,

Started off taking photos as a hobby some 12 months ago (with a D60 on loan) and I'm having some trouble with bright white clouds in taking photos. Basically, when taking photos on a bright day that's completely overcast I find that the sky looks really overexposed (i.e. blank) and bleeds onto the landscape. When I try to counteract that I get a really dark scene with relatively detailed clouds. I mostly use my 10-24mm Nikon lens on my D5500. I don't use a tripod. In these conditions I tend to use a Hoya Pro1 CPL.

This isn't a problem on clear or partially cloudy days as the blue sky is a gentler contrast to the landscape.

Some google searches haven't been too fruitful so personal advice or references to some websites would be very helpful.

Are you using Auto White Balance?

Have you tried any of the cloudy/overcast settings?
 
This interests me as surely it depends entirely on the actual shot and the sky in question? and setting a 'rule' of 1/5th is no different to sticking to the rule of thirds?

I didn't state a rule but a suggestion for improved composition. And sure, it depends on the actual scene which is exactly why I made caveats and alternative suggestions. At the end of the day if the sky is boring and flat then there is nothing you can do about it so you are best minimizing it.

Theropod that complain about compositional rules of thumb are normally those with the worst compositions in my experience. Nothing wrong with learning about classically compositional techniques and applying centuries of artistic exploration and research to your own work.
 
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