Budget RCA interconnects

Soldato
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Hi guys,

I've started baby proofing my living room which means my B&W 603s and LCR60 have gone into storage and 601s returned as fronts (although away from little hands).

As I'm back to a stereo setup, I've taken the opportunity to 'upgrade' from my trusty Yamaha DSP AX620 and have bought myself a NAD C352, having wanted a C350 for as long as I've owned my 601s.

Anyway, losing the Yamaha and its digital inputs means I need to look at some new interconnects for my sources and was wondering if there were any popular favorites to consider. I already have a Mark Grant interconnect to use between one of the sources but looking around, they don't seem to focus on that end of the market anymore.

I'd be looking to spend around £20/m and will need 2 pairs, one from a soundcard (M-Audio 2496) and the other from a BD player. I'll just find any old POS for the Sky box ;)

Also, is it worth replacing the pre/power jumpers for short length decent jumper cables?

Thanks.
 
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Cambridge Audio?

I used to have some CA Atlantic's which seemed nicely built but was wondering if it would be worth considering anything else?

How do the QED Graphites perform?
 
I don't have a lot of faith in general that many retailers or even manufacturers know much about the cable they're selling. Mark Grant is one exception, but as you said they don't have anything in your price range; or at least nothing in stock. Their Canare LV61S at £30 for a stereo 1m pair would be a steal if they had them in stock. It has a braided shield rather than a spiral wrap and that means the shield wire covers a greater area of the cables inner surface (95%) which is really good. It's an all copper shield too, so a good conductor to drain away any electrically induced charges that we know better as interference signals. Have you looked on the classifieds in AV Forums or on Ebay?

Cables with moulded plugs always ring alarm bells with me. There's no way to see what the cable construction is like so it means you're relying on the sales info. Very often that's sadly lacking in anything substantial or useful. The Cambridge Audio AUD100 is a good example of this. Kudos to them for mentioning it has a screen, but they lose those points and more because the screen is aluminium Mylar (the same metallised plastic as those shiny helium ballons are made from) and that's useless as way to conduct interference down to a ground. All foils are relatively high resistance compared to spiral wrap or braided wire conductors. Aluminium is a worse conductor than copper. So the worst shield you can have is .... aluminium Mylar. Tah-da!! :D

QED have in the past been very scant with the detail about their cables. They're relied more on the sort of descriptions that gave rise to the whole snake oil debacle. I'm glad to see that some of this is changing, but there's still a lot of BS in their newly revised specs on the Performance Graphite cable. Our old 'friend' the aluminium Mylar shield makes an unwelcome return. At least they add a drain wire, but it's still not as effective as a full braided shield. What makes me laugh though is this idea of using a twisted pair configuration in what they call their "Quasi-balanced geometry" as a way to reduce common mode noise. I'm sorry, but in an unbalanced cable that's just complete bull crap.

Common mode noise is where the signal conductor and the return conductor are subject to the same amount of interference. The trick then is to use circuits at the TX and RX to phase invert one of the two lines so that when that line is inverted a secind time at the RX end the noise cancels out. We call this a balanced connection but it's also known as differential signalling and it's what is used in Ethernet signalling, telecoms copper wiring, HDMI and balanced audio connections. Most of the time in audio the connection for balance is an XLR or a TRS jack plug. They have three connections: signal live, signal return and a shield. However, it is possible to have a balanced connection with just the live and return wires. That's what Ethernet does which uses 4 pairs. Equally then it's possible to have a balanced connection using a phono plug, but here's the crunch... The source and destination devices have to have the TX and RX circuits in them to make use of that type of connection. In other words just having a cable that is configured for balanced transmission isn't enough. That's what QED are trying to pull here. It's BS.

There is one advantage to the twisted pair geometry that QED uses though. If done correctly then it can reduce the capacitance of the connection cable because the conductors no longer lie parallel to each other. What's curious then is that QED Performance Graphite ends up being a higher capacitance cable than a simple coaxial construction cable such as the Canare or similar. They have a capacitance of roughly 70pF/m. The QED is almost double that at 115pF/m. Capacitance changes the shape of the audio wave form by holding on to charge. In an analogue video cable you could see the effect as a ghosting on the image.
 
Thanks lucid, that's really interesting to know... especially about the shielding.

I'll have a look on AVF but nothing on ebay unfortunately. I have even though about getting myself some Canare cable and making my own.
 
Picked the NAD up yesterday and got it wired up and working today. Very very happy with it, much more detail and seperation than the Yamaha. Lots of power and drives the 601s very well with more weight in the lower end. It's really made the speakers come alive... I'm well impressed (which was to be expected, the Yamaha sounded great for movies but music was never its strong point).

lucid, very kind of you to offer me some cable. I've searched for each of the cables and the VD Red Series Plasma, is that more for video applications than audio? Do cables for different purposes have different resistance that could affect the end result if used incorrectly?

Thanks.
 
The paper specs put the Yamaha 10-20W/ch ahead of the NAD, but in the real world the NAD is immensely more powerful and better damped than the Yamaha, so it's no surprise that it has a real grip on your speakers. You'll enjoy that.

Re: cable...

Good cable is good cable. As an industry the use of coaxial constructed cable for audio as well as video is getting a lot more common. eg the Canare from Mark Grant along with the QED Graphite. So using VD Red Plasma for audio is no different to using the Canare LV61 you were already considering. They're both 75 Ohm cables, both use a 7 core centre conductor construction, both 8.5 Ohm/100m core resistance, both 13 Ohm/100m shield resistance, both 4.2dB/100m attenuation, both 6.1mm overall outer diameter... both ... both... both..... You get the picture I'm sure :D

Video cables are made to tighter specifications than most run of the mill audio cables. Even humble TV aerial/satellite coax has nailed-down specs which is why it's possible to say that WF100 (the good stuff) is way better than RG6 which is sold cheap online to people who think they're getting a bargain but are getting gyped.

Most audio cables sold for Hi-Fi use have very little in the way of solid specifications. Thankfully some of that is changing but there's still a lot of cable sold on vague promises of how it will sound and little else. The saving grace is that nearly all of it is substantially better quality that the awful freebie red and white phono cables. Lord knows what spec they are lol
 
Excellent post, very informative. Thanks lucid. I've seen plenty of 75ohm cables around but always presumed it was for video, as you say audio cables don't really conform to a standard so its not something you see advertised against your typical 'upgraded' cable... Or at least I've not noticed it in general.

I've been having a look around and having studied my Mark Grant cable a bit more, its the LV61S with C4A connectors. I'm sure you're familiar with them.

Having this info, I've found some of the same spec on eBay from the US. 30cm pre-terminated cable for ~£15 would make nice jumpers for the amp... What's the likelihood it's shoddy cable in a thick sleeve, lol

I gather that crimping is better than soldering when it comes to RCAs? When doing electrical work in my car/PCs, I've always been one to solder presuming it was the better method. Interested to hear your thoughts.

Thanks for the advice so far, very interesting.
 
I've seen plenty of 75ohm cables around but always presumed it was for video, as you say audio cables don't really conform to a standard so its not something you see advertised against your typical 'upgraded' cable... Or at least I've not noticed it in general.
There's quite a bit of Hi-Fi interconnect cable that's coaxial construction and has been for a while now. I have some Chord cables, and I know first-hand from repairing them that at least some of the old Van Den Hul cables are coaxial too. What's taken a while to catch up is the plug technology. For a long while everything way solder tag phono, even on some very expensive cables.

I've been having a look around and having studied my Mark Grant cable a bit more, its the LV61S with C4A connectors. I'm sure you're familiar with them.
Yeah, the cable spec is as close as makes no difference to the Van Damme I mentioned that I have. The Canare RCAP-C4A though are something I never really got on with. I find the length of the plug puts a lot of leverage on the phono sockets of domestic gear. I have seen the chassis's bending under the weight of the cable. That can't be good for reliability. Crimping can also be a bit brutal on the cable. We've done it in the industry for a long time so obviously it works, and there are still AV connector types where I have to use crimp, but for the most part the industry has moved over to compression fit plugs. They provide a superior join with better grip and far less distortion by gripping 360 degrees rather than at just 6 points with a hexagonal crimp. Where possible compression fit is the pug type of choice. It's what I use most often.

Having this info, I've found some of the same spec on eBay from the US. 30cm pre-terminated cable for ~£15 would make nice jumpers for the amp... What's the likelihood it's shoddy cable in a thick sleeve, lol
Unless you're working on a really tight budget then it would be possible to make up some jumpers that would be kinder mechanically on the chassis and not leave you with 15cm sticking out of the back :D

I gather that crimping is better than soldering when it comes to RCAs? When doing electrical work in my car/PCs, I've always been one to solder presuming it was the better method. Interested to hear your thoughts.
The current thinking is that crimp reduces the number of material boundaries (e.g. copper to solder to brass becomes just copper to brass) and it reduces mass. I know that Chord have gone polycarbonate on their plug end shields to save mass. That would certainly produce the biggest weight saving compared to a blob or two of solder. It can't be good for the shielding continuity though. Part of me can't help feeling though that some of this is just window dressing.

In terms of car electrics you're not dealing with coax cables, it's mostly single conductor wires, so either crimp or solder is fine. Solder takes more time but if done right then it'll never come off.
 
Time to revisit this one seeing as how I didn't get much further at the time, a new baby will do that to you!

@lucid, thanks again for the time taken to post such useful information. I'm not a cable connoisseur by any means but what you say is understandable and makes sense. From what I can gather, 75ohm co-ax is fine for the majority of video and audio applications unless over long distances.

I'd be looking to make a mixture of stereo analogue audio, digital co-ax and some short bridging cables to use for my NAD and Schiit stack. I've seen reflection and refraction mentioned when talking about really short cables, is this actually much of an issue and is there a minimum recommended cable length? Max length of the interconnects will probably be about 2m.

I've been comparing the Belden 1694A, 1505F and Canare LV-61S and they all seem much of a muchness spec wise, apart from the 1694A being RG6. Should I be using RG59? I guess all quality 75ohm cable will have similar specifications so it just comes down to price/preference?

You mentioned the Canare RCAP and I agree, they are pretty chunky. I've been looking at some compression fittings (namely ICM FS59/FS6). They look easier to work with than the RCAPs.
 
Time to revisit this one seeing as how I didn't get much further at the time, a new baby will do that to you!

@lucid, thanks again for the time taken to post such useful information. I'm not a cable connoisseur by any means but what you say is understandable and makes sense. From what I can gather, 75ohm co-ax is fine for the majority of video and audio applications unless over long distances.

Coax is highly suitable for analogue and digital (electrical) interconnects. Distance isn't really a problem either unless the cable is very lossy. Think about the aerial and satellite cable running around your house. Did anyone say "Oh, you can't have your telly/Sky box any more than X metres from the aerial/dish" ? No, probably not. The signal from an LNB is runs at anything up to 2,150MHz which is massively higher frequency than analogue audio at a few tens of kHz. Very high frequencies are where cable losses are seen most acutely. It also has a bit less amplitude @ +/-0.3V for satellite (0.6V pp) versus anything up to 2.0V pp from some audio sources.

So ask yourself, why is it okay to run 20-30-40 metres of cable carrying a 2150MHz signal of lower amplitude through satellite coax at £0.75/m, but the audio industry wants you to believe it's a big problem running more than 3 or 4 mtrs of coax carrying a 20kHz signal at 1Vpp through cable coasting ten times the price and more? Could it be that they don't have a good engineering reason other than some of their cables aren't that good?


To be fair, there was (an possibly still is for some brands) a bit of an issue with impedance matching within the interconnect design.

I use 75 Ohm cable and 75 Ohm rated plugs to avoid signal reflection points within a lead. It's just good engineering practise. What I can't control though is the source and load impedances. The load impedance shouldn't really be an issue. It should be very high; 50,000-100,000 Ohms, something in that range. It's the source impedance that can be hugely variable. A Creek CD50 CD player has an output impedance of 47 Ohms. An Onkyo C-7000R CD player is 330 Ohms, and an Astin Trew AT3000 CD player is just 1.5 Ohms (Yes, one point five. It wasn't a typo.) There's no way to practically and cost effectively engineer cables to cope with such a wide variance. Thankfully any audio reflections from the source/cable interface are dealt with inside the player. The best we can do is to ensure the minimum number of transmission boundaries within the lead.

Phono plugs weren't originally designed as 75 Ohm connectors. Solder joint ones definitely aren't. But thanks to companies such Canare and Belden (F-Conn) responding to the use of the phono socket as a video connection for analogue HD (Component video) it's now possible to buy plugs that are close to or exactly that standard.

With the correct cable I can run analogue audio 30-40 mtrs with imperceptible loss (<0.3dB @ 200Hz) which I do with my micro-diameter sub-woofer installation cable.


I'd be looking to make a mixture of stereo analogue audio, digital co-ax and some short bridging cables to use for my NAD and Schiit stack. I've seen reflection and refraction mentioned when talking about really short cables, is this actually much of an issue and is there a minimum recommended cable length? Max length of the interconnects will probably be about 2m.

This is to do with power transfer. When the signal encounters a high impedance load (as they all should be) such as a 47,000 Ohm impedance for the Line In of an amplifier there'll be a signal reflection. There's a relationship between the way the wave travels (propagates) down the cable, its frequency (and the harmonics) and the cable length that determines the size of the resultant voltage that the destination device sees. This is because the signal is represented by a simple sine wave, and a sine waves varies in amplitude from +100% through 0% to -100%. The power transmission level is affected by what happens when new signal waves encounter the reflected waves.

Since a high impedance load looks like an open circuit in electrical terms, then the reflected wave will have close to 100% of the amplitude of the source wave. At various points where the waves meet there will be constructive or destructive interference. IOW, the signal as seen in some parts of the cable could appear to double or be summed to zero. This is a standing wave and it sounds like a complete disaster for audio and video interconnects. A 20Hz electrical signal has a wavelength of roughly 15,000km. (Speed of light @ 300,000,000m/s in a vacuum divided by the frequency in Hz = wavelength in metres. Divide by 1000 to get km). A half-metre long interconnect really shouldn't cause too many issues. In fact QED are quite happy to make up and sell interconnects in 0.6m lengths. Do you think they'd do that if there was a risk of getting no sound out of the cable?

Looking at amps with pre-power bridging links, the little metal U's have about 2cm of exposed conductor. Once again, did any of these manufacturers suffer massive returns because the amps didn't work?

The current flavour of the month from some cable companies such as Chord is for standard interconnect lengths starting at 1.2 metres. That's double the 0.6m minimum from QED. If you're concerned then I'd say stick with multiples of 0.6m for anything between separate boxes.


I've been comparing the Belden 1694A, 1505F and Canare LV-61S and they all seem much of a muchness spec wise, apart from the 1694A being RG6. Should I be using RG59? I guess all quality 75ohm cable will have similar specifications so it just comes down to price/preference?
RG refers to Radio Guide, and it's a standard physical size guide, so it defines overall diameter, dielectric diameter and centre core size. There's a relationship between these dimensions that defines the cable impedance.

What the Radio Guide doesn't specify is materials. There's a lot of cheap crappy RG6 aerial and satellite cable that's made from a solid steel core anodised with copper, and the outer shield composed of sparse aluminium braid over a metalised plastic (Mylar) foil. It's RG6, but nothing like the quality of Belden 1694A, or even Webro WF100 satellite/TV coax.

RG59 is still a 75 Ohm cable but a smaller outside diameter (aprx 6mm vs 7mm). Again, the Radio Guide doesn't specify materials. 1505F uses a multi-core centre and is a double shielded with braid rather than a foil/braid combo. This makes it more flexible than foil/braid cables but not as suitable for very high frequency signals such as for use as satellite coax. It's good for audio though.

My Go-To RG59 is Liberty Interflex SD. It's a Serial Digital cable with the electrical properties of 1694A (high bandwidth, low loss) but is almost as flexible as 1505F so it a good all-round solution for audio and for digital coax. I also use Van Damme Plasma Grade RG6 if I need something very flexible for audio. In the past I tried Belden 1694A but found the solid core and its thickness combined with the foil/braid shielding just made the whole thing far too stiff. The Liberty does everything that 1694A does but in a much more install friendly way.

You mentioned the Canare RCAP and I agree, they are pretty chunky. I've been looking at some compression fittings (namely ICM FS59/FS6). They look easier to work with than the RCAPs.
Yes. I use the F-Conn connectors and also some from Liberty. They're all short-body 75 Ohm plugs and work well. The Canares are just too damned long IMO, especially for free standing gear on a standard living room Hi-Fi rack.

Have you factored in the cost of a decent compression tool? I've tried the cheaper alternatives but found that they don't quite fit or don't close the plugs up completely so I stick with my Liberty compression tool. They're a lot of money, but buggering up the plugs and then having to remake the cables gets expensive and time consuming.
 
I don't know if you got any cables sorted, if not check out https://www.designacable.com/ pro grade cables for great prices, they can probably custom make pretty much anything you needed.

Nice site but a basic problem is that all the phono plugs are solder-tag Neutriks or similar design.

Why take the time to research the benefits of shielded 75 Ohm coax, then spend good money on said cables, only to throw away most of the advantage with unshielded plugs of indeterminate impedance when there are properly specified plugs easily available?

I know that compression plugs are a bit harder to fit and have to be done properly 1st time, and also that the correct plug needs specifying for each diameter and type of cable, but if I can do this on site with the gear I hold in my van then surely someone working out of an industrial unit could do so too? I think the guys at Designacable are missing a trick.
 
I buy it in 1000ft / 305m drums. I don't have a huge amount left at the moment, buy I'm not yet ready to buy a new reel either. I also carry Van Damme Plasma Grade coax and a couple of lesser-known but very-well-shielded coax cables.
 
I buy it in 1000ft / 305m drums. I don't have a huge amount left at the moment, buy I'm not yet ready to buy a new reel either. I also carry Van Damme Plasma Grade coax and a couple of lesser-known but very-well-shielded coax cables.

Ah ok, would you consider selling any so I could make a couple of RCA interconnects?
 
you can pick up xke or onyx @ ~1.30 p/m on ebay both well specced nice-handling

(

just did DIY option for rca&3.5mm extension cables onyx2025/van-damme xke £1-2/pm + rean connectors, but had to drill out back of connectors because diameter was too big
29030236618_faf827e6b2_b_d.jpg
)
 
Andy. I have an absolute pile of various ones in my lift from the days I had multiple boxes etc.

Happy to drop them off and you can keep whatever you want. There’s a range of Mark Grant, Nordost, Chord, Kimber cables etc.

Edit. Just realized your post is about 3 years old!
 
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