Building a lean to greenhouse

scarps said:
I just used normal timber, no fancy beading when I did mine. I even used normal cheap timber to do my wooden glass one I made, just put some clear silicone between glass and wood.
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Sorry what do you mean? I am using normal timber for the framing. But I somehow need to attach the polycarbonate panels.
 
danlightbulb said:
What do you mean 2x1 battens? Inches or cm? And how are you attaching these to the framing structure?
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It’s neither. It’s 22mm x 50mm. Basically a retangle bit of timber where one side is 2x as long as the other side. 2x2 is the same size but generally it’s meant to mean 1inch by 2 inch from back in the day. Where as a 3x2 is 70mm x 45mm so the 2in that is 5mm smaller :D

Slabs as well are the same, 3x2 is 900 x 600 and 2x2 is 600x600, Its just a quick way of letting the bloke behind the counter know exactly what you want rapid style.

Anyway back on point. Your making this way more difficult than it needs to be. Just get a bit of 10x38mm sawn timber, will be cheap like £2-3 for a 4.8m length. Take a hand saw if you if you have a car and cut it in half/quarter to get it in your car if you don’t have access to a van.

Build your frame and screw the timber into the fame. Use 2x1 (50mm x 22mm) battens to make your fame. Screw the 10x38mm into the frame where you need your panels to go so there is a gap of where the panel will sit. The 38mm section onto the 50mm giving you a gap of 12mm for the panel actually sit in.

Bit of clear stixx all around the panel frame, pop the panel in. That’ll hold it and seal it nicely.

Then angle cut at a 45° the front bit and go around the panel further holding it in and it’ll look like your above picture of the £30 frame.

Hopefully that makes sense.

*edit*

I really need to stop writing so much on my phone, the structure of that is so bad.
 
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aVdub said:
I take it you are using Snap Joiners for the sheets and if so I would suggest using Twin Wall fixings.

Watch this video and save money + time

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Thanks but that's not suitable method for my application. He is surface mounting the panels on top of his framing, I need to recess mine within my framing.

I won't have need for joiners, my structure is exactly 1 panel deep. The panels will need to be 'within' the structure like in this Amazon example:

 
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WEF6LGC.jpeg

A visual representation of what I mean. Then the panels go into those.
 
Reuben klang said:
WEF6LGC.jpeg

A visual representation of what I mean. Then the panels go into those.
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Yes I get you but that's why I was originally planning to use quadrant beading or just some stripwood to essentially provide a rebate for the panels to sit against.

Your idea of using 10x38mm stripwood is the same but that's way too big. My framing is 38x63 CLS from Wickes because it was the best value per m. Other sawn timber dimensions were a lot more expensive.

I was only originally planning to use 6mm X 6mm quadrant or square stripwood, or maybe 10mm X 10mm. But it's £3 a length and I'd need 10-15 lengths of it at least, in order to sandwich the panels.

aVdub said:
Twin Wall fixings and flashing tape.

Keep it Simple......
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I don't want to surface mount the panels it won't look as nice. This isn't a 2 bit structure I'm trying to build it well.
 
danlightbulb said:
Yes I get you but that's why I was originally planning to use quadrant beading or just some stripwood to essentially provide a rebate for the panels to sit against.

Your idea of using 10x38mm stripwood is the same but that's way too big. My framing is 38x63 CLS from Wickes because it was the best value per m. Other sawn timber dimensions were a lot more expensive.

I was only originally planning to use 6mm X 6mm quadrant or square stripwood, or maybe 10mm X 10mm. But it's £3 a length and I'd need 10-15 lengths of it at least, in order to sandwich the panels.



I don't want to surface mount the panels it won't look as nice. This isn't a 2 bit structure I'm trying to build it well.
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Well, unless you have a table saw and can strip it down to a small size your either going to have to buy thicker timber or buy quadrant beading. Its all well and good going for whats the cheapest per M but not when it’s not fit for purpose.
 
danlightbulb said:
I don't want to surface mount the panels it won't look as nice. This isn't a 2 bit structure I'm trying to build it well.
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TBH you are over complicating something and trying to turn a tiny plastic sheet covered frame into something Kew would be proud of.

Perhaps you would be better asking those who have done it, OH wait...

ZX8ls6e.gif
 
danlightbulb said:
What do you mean 2x1 battens? Inches or cm? And how are you attaching these to the framing structure?
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Essentially you build 2 frames with the glass in the middle, also this way gives you support for putting shelves in within the frame. Its very simple though, and cheap. But buying in Wickes is going to increase costs a lot. Surprised you chose CLS for outside, pressure treated timbers would have been better.

If you're trying to do it cheap just do what wleshman showed you above, it looks better than your idea of quadrant beading.
 
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200sols said:
Essentially you build 2 frames with the glass in the middle, also this way gives you support for putting shelves in within the frame. Its very simple though, and cheap. But buying in Wickes is going to increase costs a lot. Surprised you chose CLS for outside, pressure treated timbers would have been better.

If you're trying to do it cheap just do what wleshman showed you above, it looks better than your idea of quadrant beading.
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How would glass have been mounted in a wooden greenhouse? Beading.

I chose CLS because I can apply wood preserver and stain myself. It was twice as much at least to buy sawn treated timber. But whether I bought CLS or pressure treated timber I'd still have had the same problem with how to mount the panels.

Im accused of over complicating it when all I'm trying to do is replicate what you can get for £60 on Amazon...those have inset panels not surface mounted ones.

The reason I'm building it myself is because I need it to fit the space I have available.
 
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danlightbulb said:
Yes because your advice was crap.
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Suggested username change: Dandimbulb ;)

Good luck in your quest to polish a turd and may you learn to accept advice from those that know what they are doing, have done it and spend their time banging their heads against walls when trying to help people like you.

I will not stoop as low as the comment above, but will suggest that the below has another gif with something about a sandwich in it :cry:

tn1tBBy.gif
 
aVdub said:
Suggested username change: Dandimbulb ;)

Good luck in your quest to polish a turd and may you learn to accept advice from those that know what they are doing, have done it and spend their time banging their heads against walls when trying to help people like you.

I will not stoop as low as the comment above, but will suggest that the below has another gif with something about a sandwich in it :cry:

tn1tBBy.gif
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Look your advice was just not suitable for my application. You're telling me to surface mount my PC panels on my framing. It would look absolutely terrible with exposed edges top bottom and sides. If you've done it then put a picture up of your construction let's have a look at it.

The only way your solution would look half decent is to put additional cladding around the panels to provide a flush look. I'm not going to have room on my framing to fit extra cladding, it's only 38x63 timber CLS.
 
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danlightbulb said:
Look your advice was just not suitable for my application. You're telling me to surface mount my PC panels on my framing. It would look absolutely terrible with exposed edges top bottom and sides. If you've done it then put a picture up of your construction let's have a look at it.
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I could list all the edges you can use to make it something Kew would be proud of, but alas you would probably question that and then ignore the advice.
Good luck in the building of your tiny tiny £300,000 plastic shed.

oobxjri.gif
 
aVdub said:
I could list all the edges you can use to make it something Kew would be proud of, but alas you would probably question that and then ignore the advice.
Good luck in the building of your tiny tiny £300,000 plastic shed.

oobxjri.gif
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Lol can't accept he's given crap advice. Would be good advice for making a flat carport roof not a lean to greenhouse with opening doors.
 
You will have to buy the right tools to do it as you want it i.e. the router.
If you don't want to do that then you have to do it in one of the ways that have already been suggested or buy the amazon one and modify it to fit your space
 
964rs said:
You will have to buy the right tools to do it as you want it i.e. the router.
If you don't want to do that then you have to do it in one of the ways that have already been suggested or buy the amazon one and modify it to fit your space
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I'll have to buy the router or attempt to make a groove with a drill and hand chisel (drill a straight line of 6mm holes 10mm deep all the way along each piece of timber, and then use the chisel to clean it up and make it a continuous groove).

Not sure how long a manual approach would take. Obviously a router is better (more accurate, faster) and if I would use it again in future it might be worth having one. Not sure I will though.

Do you think a palm router or full size router is better for this? I will need to cut the groove in the centre of the 38mm edge of my timber, so not a lot of room for it to rest on.
 
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