Building a single speed

Soldato
Joined
27 Dec 2005
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Bristol
So I replaced the Ridley wheels on my ~4 year old Boardman and I'd like to use them as part of a single speed project for pottering about on; cheap, flat pedals, etc.

I really like the look of the basic frames, only way I can describe them from second hand adverts is 80s racers or BSAs/Peugeots. What should I be looking out for when buying a second hand frame like that?

Also what would I then need to turn it into a single speed? And how do you decide on what gearing to go for? I've never even ridden a single speed so have no idea!

Thanks for any help :)
 
Aluminium, is it? Old lugged aluminium is usually quite heavy and it can come apart at the lugs. I'd look for a peugeot or BSA frame as you originally mentioned, in steel. Or bianchi if you have loads of cash that needs spending!
 
Check the width of the wheels. They are probably 130mm OLN.

Just be aware that most bikes into the 90's were designed with 126mm spacing (6-7 gears) and before that, 120mm (old 5-speed). If you get a very old frame it might be 110mm (3-speed freewheel, SA hubs, old track spacing and some SS hubs).

You'll be ok squeezing a 130mm wheel into a 126mm frame, but you won't get it in anything narrower without a lot of swearing, chipped paint and pinched fingers.
 
Plenty of old chod out there all the time. Whole bikes are usually cheaper than frames, ironically. Raleighs always ride well, no matter what grade of steel they're made of. You're binning the gears and stuff anyway, so it won't exactly be heavy whatever you go for.
 
Just got an email back from this guy: http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/1980s-raleigh-pursuit-frame-20-inch-fixie-project/1071012818

"From the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube is 51cm". I'm 5ft 7" (inside leg 80cm) so I'm looking for about 54cm. I'm assuming he's measured it not including the seat post so this should be absolutely fine, no?

Part of the reason I want to build a single speed is to learn more about bikes and whilst I paid for a bike fitting I'm pretty clueless with regards to geometry/proper sizing so advice appreciated.
 
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If he knows what he's doing he'll have measured it "centre to centre" ie the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the seat tube at the join between it and the top tube. Maybe worth checking as "to the top of the seat tube" suggests it might actually be 48cm c2c.
 
If he knows what he's doing he'll have measured it "centre to centre" ie the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the seat tube at the join between it and the top tube. Maybe worth checking as "to the top of the seat tube" suggests it might actually be 48cm c2c.

I would always measure centre-to-top (from the middle of BB to top of seat tube).

I'm looking for about 54cm.

It's too small. Even if you have a long seatpost on it the top tube will be too short.

Also, it doesnt really have the right sort of dropout for a singlespeed. It's horizontal, so would be better than a vertical dropout but it doesnt look like there is much adjustment in it at all.
 
Also, it doesnt really have the right sort of dropout for a singlespeed. It's horizontal, so would be better than a vertical dropout but it doesnt look like there is much adjustment in it at all.
Should be ok. Long drop-outs like those are ideal for budget SS conversions. The problem with the ones on this particular bike are that it's got pressed drop-outs with a short one on the drive side, like the Equipe had. You need to drill it a bit further down and file or cut the slot to match the other side. It's not a difficult job because the drop-out isn't hardened on this bike.

Size-wise, depends how long your arms are. Also, if you're going to use bull horns you'll want a shorter frame.
 
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Bumping this for progress updates. How did you get on OP?

Thinking of starting a build as an over winter project, so scouting out eBay/Gumtree etc for suitable frames at the moment.

Longer term I've got a real jones for a Leader 725 frame, swoon.
 
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