Calibre Bossnut v3

Harl0

Harl0

Harl0

Associate
Joined
23 Oct 2012
Posts
213
Hey!

Last year I purchased a v3 Bossnut. Its a great bike which successfully got me into hitting the trails. I’ve added a dropper post and recently upgraded the shifter to the SRAM Eagle GX. I’m finding I bottom out every now and again and was wondering if anyone could recommend an upgrade for either the front or both shocks as having lockout wouldn’t go a miss either ;)

My regular trails are around the Cannock Chase.
 
if you're bottoming out, why not add more psi or a token (or, your rebound could do with being increased, if its not recovering between hits)? changing shocks wont necessarily stop you bottoming out, it's more the sag/pressure settings and adding a ramp-up with more tokens. If you've tried higher psi and they're not keeping the pressure, then it could be worth a service?

If you're hitting big jumps/trails and regularly blowing through the suspension travel, then just increasing the travel of both shocks on the same frame generally won't work that well, as you'll end up changing the bike's design/geometry. The Bossnut is a pretty capable budget full suss, so I'd be surprised you're hitting gnarly enough stuff to need a bigger travel bike after 1 year of riding.

I'm just thinking you don't need to spend the substantial cost of a new fork and rear shock, as it should be fixable. if cash is really burning a hole, then save and upgrade the frame. by the time you've paid for new groupset, new fork and rear shock, then new brakes etc then you're still stuck with the same frame/geometry
 
oops, looks like the Rockshox Recon doesn't support tokens. so, I'd suggest looking at increasing the psi and playing with the rebound (assuming it's got that).

(or, are you landing nose heavy, with all your weight going into the fork and it bottoming out? Could also be your riding style?)
 
DereksDontRun said:
if you're bottoming out, why not add more psi or a token (or, your rebound could do with being increased, if its not recovering between hits)? changing shocks wont necessarily stop you bottoming out, it's more the sag/pressure settings and adding a ramp-up with more tokens. If you've tried higher psi and they're not keeping the pressure, then it could be worth a service?

If you're hitting big jumps/trails and regularly blowing through the suspension travel, then just increasing the travel of both shocks on the same frame generally won't work that well, as you'll end up changing the bike's design/geometry. The Bossnut is a pretty capable budget full suss, so I'd be surprised you're hitting gnarly enough stuff to need a bigger travel bike after 1 year of riding.

I'm just thinking you don't need to spend the substantial cost of a new fork and rear shock, as it should be fixable. if cash is really burning a hole, then save and upgrade the frame. by the time you've paid for new groupset, new fork and rear shock, then new brakes etc then you're still stuck with the same frame/geometry
Click to expand...

I echo this, shock/fork setup or your riding style. Pay for some lessons would probably be a bigger benefit.

Plus to upgrade fork and shock your probably talking what, a grand?

I've rode cannock chase (it's also my local :) ), unless your riding the offpiste/dh park stuff then you shouldn't really be bottoming out. I'd adjust air and go from there. Have you set up sag on them?
 
http://calibrebicycles.com/bike/bossnut-3/
the bossnut 3 has 130mm travel front and back, which while isn't as much as some trail bikes, it's still not an XC bike... The rear shock is ok and can be tweaked with spacers/tokens, but I admit the fork is a little basic.

tbh, before buying a new fork, I'd be making the wheels tubeless if you haven't and probably shoving some 2.4-2.5" tyres on it


I enjoy riding my hardtail as much as my 150mm Jeffsy, and I dont really feel massively less capable on the hardtail - at the end of the day, you have WAY more travel in your arms/legs than the shocks, so it's worth getting used to using them to absorb impacts and pump the bike and let the shocks absorb the chatter.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys.

I’ve checked the PSI on the shocks, and tuned my sag etc not much required to be honest since my last few rides as I tend to check my pressures after every ride.

I’ll stick with the current parts for now as it’s probably just my technique that needs work hehe

Yeah, good shout with tubeless, I’ll be doing the conversion (bike ships tubeless ready).
 
I have a bossnut evo so same travel and I've had no noticeable issues with bottoming out and I've done snowdon a number of times and bike park Wales. Also taking it to Morzine in July (if it ends up going ahead :o)

My main issues are that it's a bit of a pig for climbing with no rear shock lock out so I don't really use it for big cross country rides mostly just trail centres

It is set up tubeless too
 
Harl0 said:
Thanks for the feedback guys.

I’ve checked the PSI on the shocks, and tuned my sag etc not much required to be honest since my last few rides as I tend to check my pressures after every ride.

I’ll stick with the current parts for now as it’s probably just my technique that needs work hehe

Yeah, good shout with tubeless, I’ll be doing the conversion (bike ships tubeless ready).
Click to expand...

Theres a guy floats about on Facebook for some instruction. Adam Coxon.

Tempted to go myself, when this is all over.
 
Sorry to bump this up, just stumbled across it.

I've got a V3 also, awsome, very capable bike, love it.

If you wanted a rear lockout, the Monarch RL or RT3 would do the job.

Not sure if you have done the tubeless conversion yet, but although the tyres are tubeless ready, you will need to replace the tape on the wheels as it is not suitable for the job, I used Gorilla tape, and a muc off tubeless kit.

If you havn't already, join the Calibre Bossnut Riders Group on facebook, great bunch of people with loads of knowledge about everything Bossnut, TripleB and Sentry (amongst others).

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My steed
 
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