Can you run a bolt extractor in the drill?
- Thread starter jsmoke
- Start date
As long as it fits in the drill/driver then use it.
easy outs?
like...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extractor-set-5-pieces/1112v ??
you need to push down on them and go quite slow, using a t handle/tap wrench - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunpla-Adj...wicXNhIjoiNS42NyIsInFzcCI6IjUuNDIifQ==&sr=8-5
like...
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extractor-set-5-pieces/1112v ??
you need to push down on them and go quite slow, using a t handle/tap wrench - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunpla-Adj...wicXNhIjoiNS42NyIsInFzcCI6IjUuNDIifQ==&sr=8-5
Yep those are what I bought, the problem is if the extractors snap inside the hole, very difficult to get them out.
If you’re talking about ezouts bare in mind that they are hardened, they are brittle, can break and a pain in the… to drill out. I learnt that the hard way.
If they are the type that go onto the outside of the bolt with teeth that bite in as you turn it, hammer it on first and then use an impact gun or a long bar. Depending on the situation you're going to either sigh with relief as it comes out or curse it forever as you shear the bolt.
If they are the type that "screws into" whatever it is you're trying to remove, drill a pilot hole if you can first and then GENTLY turn them by hand with some mechanical advantage like a T-bar or a mid-length bar. If you manage to snap one of these in place (not an unlikely outcome!) then you're now into drilling out hardened steel which is an absolute pig.
If they are the type that "screws into" whatever it is you're trying to remove, drill a pilot hole if you can first and then GENTLY turn them by hand with some mechanical advantage like a T-bar or a mid-length bar. If you manage to snap one of these in place (not an unlikely outcome!) then you're now into drilling out hardened steel which is an absolute pig.
Soldato
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This popped up on my recommended list a few weeks ago.
interesting video - can the guide he has for centering the extractor be purchased ? but, if it's broken off above ground, guess you just have to try and centre punch it accurately/manually to start the extraction,
do need to get more cobalt drills though, the couple I own are great.
have a 4mm bolt that broke off last week, cut a slot in the protuding section, that sheared, applied plus-gas & heat still no joy
do need to get more cobalt drills though, the couple I own are great.
have a 4mm bolt that broke off last week, cut a slot in the protuding section, that sheared, applied plus-gas & heat still no joy
Think this set has guides. If not I'm sure you can find them on Google.
US PRO 25PC Screw Extractor Drill & Guide Set 2632 | eBay
Extractor pins: #1, #2, #3, #4, #5. Extractor nuts: N1, N2, N3, N4, N5. HSS drill bits: 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 11/32". Can be used on thread sizes from 5mm to 16mm. Lighting & Security. US PRO Industrial.
www.ebay.co.uk
Soldato
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I suppose you could 3d print something to do the job as it is only for guiding the drill bit.
Caporegime
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You risk shearing the easy out using a drill or even an small impact driver. Drilling out a hardened steel easy out is ten times worse! Been there done that spending hours with diamond core drill bits!
I prefer using a copper washer and welding either a nut or bolt on top but I can understand not everyone has access to or can weld.
They are really handy for drilling central holes. Just replace the drill bits with something decent like dormer drill bits.
I prefer using a copper washer and welding either a nut or bolt on top but I can understand not everyone has access to or can weld.
They are really handy for drilling central holes. Just replace the drill bits with something decent like dormer drill bits.
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Break an ezi out off in a casting and chances are you will need to use spark erosion to get the thing out. They are an excellent way of taking a situation from bad to worse. The very nature of their taper thread form means they expand the bolt or stud remains as you apply torque to them, which is self defeating. A crude but better way is drill the broken bolt / stud dead centre (MUCH easier said than done)and to a suitable size, and tap in a Torx bit, and use that to try and extract it.
Safest way is again drill dead centre, and drill oversize to use a Helicoil insert. Drilling something already bolted to an engine, in the car is fraught with problems, or impossible, if it's something like a cylinder head it MIGHT be worth making a drill guide to mount on unbroken studs or bolts. Especially if it's a common problem you see a lot of, like Skyline GTSt turbo manifold studs. Even then some holes are plain inaccessible even to a miniature right angle air drill.
Usually I remove whatever has the snapped bolt and drill it out on the Bridgeport milling machine, under controlled and accurate conditions. Gets expensive but better than knackering some expensive casting...Often quicker than buggering about for hours only to find it needs to come off anyway...
Attempts at home usually end up going disastrously wrong with an off centre, angled hole, with no thread left and still the casting needs removing, but now the job is infinitely worse to sort out.
I have a rounded off bolt in a front subframe to remove today.
Modus operandi : Clean the bolt head up to bright steel with a die grinder. Grab a suitably internal sized quality plain full depth nut. TIG the nut to the rounded bolt head, using a lot of tungsten extension and a big cup, the heat helping break the thread of the rounded bolt free. Unscrew with a single hex socket, BY HAND. Invoice accordingly, expecting the usual "HOW much". Admonish customer for rounding it off in the first place
Safest way is again drill dead centre, and drill oversize to use a Helicoil insert. Drilling something already bolted to an engine, in the car is fraught with problems, or impossible, if it's something like a cylinder head it MIGHT be worth making a drill guide to mount on unbroken studs or bolts. Especially if it's a common problem you see a lot of, like Skyline GTSt turbo manifold studs. Even then some holes are plain inaccessible even to a miniature right angle air drill.
Usually I remove whatever has the snapped bolt and drill it out on the Bridgeport milling machine, under controlled and accurate conditions. Gets expensive but better than knackering some expensive casting...Often quicker than buggering about for hours only to find it needs to come off anyway...
Attempts at home usually end up going disastrously wrong with an off centre, angled hole, with no thread left and still the casting needs removing, but now the job is infinitely worse to sort out.
I have a rounded off bolt in a front subframe to remove today.
Modus operandi : Clean the bolt head up to bright steel with a die grinder. Grab a suitably internal sized quality plain full depth nut. TIG the nut to the rounded bolt head, using a lot of tungsten extension and a big cup, the heat helping break the thread of the rounded bolt free. Unscrew with a single hex socket, BY HAND. Invoice accordingly, expecting the usual "HOW much". Admonish customer for rounding it off in the first place
Which is why you should not use extractors on bolts that have been sheared of because they have seized in place with corrosion etc. They work fine for bolts/studs that been been sheared through overtorquing, fatigue or just plain overloading. In the applications that extractors are intended for, they should be turned by hand, not with a drill or impact driver, so you can get a much better feel if the extractor is starting to twist.
If you have the remains of a fastener corroded in place then either weld a nut to the top (if possible) or carefully drill it out.