Canon EOS 5D
- Thread starter tem07
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 7 Aug 2004
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- 11,342
as you seemingly know very little, use the pre done modes (landscape,portrait, macro etc, obviously for whatever situation your in), or just leave it on fully automatic, also take a basics of photography book with you on the plane
Which is odd seeing as he owns 3ks worth of equipment! More money than sense maybe.
It would seem so.
the Exifs of your images suggest that you have a EOS 10D, not a 5D. the 10D is fairly old though.
anyway there is no noise as far as i can see, and ISO400 isn't particularly high.
tell you what, you give me your 10D, and i'll give you my almost-new 400D?
by the way:
Canon EOS 10D = £999.99
Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Zoom Lens = £1044.00
Canon Telephoto zoom lens - 100 mm - 400 mm - f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM - Canon EF = £1049.95
Canon Canon EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM Zoom Lens = £829.98
total cost = £4143.89
what did you do? win the lottery? rob a camera shop?
anyway there is no noise as far as i can see, and ISO400 isn't particularly high.
tell you what, you give me your 10D, and i'll give you my almost-new 400D?
by the way:
Canon EOS 10D = £999.99
Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Zoom Lens = £1044.00
Canon Telephoto zoom lens - 100 mm - 400 mm - f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM - Canon EF = £1049.95
Canon Canon EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM Zoom Lens = £829.98
total cost = £4143.89
what did you do? win the lottery? rob a camera shop?
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unless you've got some special 10d it doesn't have a macro mode. I know mine certainly doesn't 
You really need to read up on the basics of aperture, shutter speed and iso. use M (manual - you control everything), Av (aperture priority - you pick the aperture and it works out the shutter speed) and Tv (shutter priority - you pick the shutter speed and it works out the aperture). don't bother with any of the automatic modes, they're all crap
the 10D is a great camera though, the only areas that mine lets me down is high iso performance (ie, there isn't any performance
) and general speed of use for photo play back and buffer speed
You really need to read up on the basics of aperture, shutter speed and iso. use M (manual - you control everything), Av (aperture priority - you pick the aperture and it works out the shutter speed) and Tv (shutter priority - you pick the shutter speed and it works out the aperture). don't bother with any of the automatic modes, they're all crap
the 10D is a great camera though, the only areas that mine lets me down is high iso performance (ie, there isn't any performance
) and general speed of use for photo play back and buffer speed
Well I think this is all going off at rather a tangent !!! Firstly you don't need a new camera, it will NOT make your pictures any better. .... Camera's don't generally make good or bad pictures, what ever their vintage. But the person holding them makes a big difference.
Secondly the issue of using various modes and the sometimes insistence of using manual modes, under some belief it will make your pictures better... load of rubbish if you don't understand what is happening with the camera.
What it all boils down to is understand and controlling light. To this we have two basic controls, Aperture and Shutter. Or simply "hole" and "time". As I doubt many walk around with a hand held meter, we all rely on the built in light meter system to measure this light.
So it doesn't matter if you set or the camera does, you both relying on the same information. All the modes are doing is selection a preference or bias toward either exposure time or aperture. They are the only variables we have to play with. (ignoring ISO for now, assuming it's been set to fixed).
Where the difference is made is reading the setting either you or the camera is suggesting, and understanding the effect.
So a little test
So the camera has measured the light, and it reported 1/15th Sec at F8, using 100mm lens. What are you going to think and do ??????
Next day your are out shooting the landscape, nice building in the foreground, hills to the far, camera says ..... 1/1000th at F4.5 ......... what are you going to do ??????
Next question, if the meter reading is 1/2000 at f5.6 what will the speed be at f16 ????
When you have grasped these basic, then you can start to think about being more clever than then the camera's meter. Dialing in deliberate "errors" or "compensation" to the reading.
It all come to understand and controlling light, all camera's have had that ability since they were invented .... newer and "better", just give you more options in the way you work. But some times all the technology and automation lets you down, if you don't understand the basics first.
Secondly the issue of using various modes and the sometimes insistence of using manual modes, under some belief it will make your pictures better... load of rubbish if you don't understand what is happening with the camera.
What it all boils down to is understand and controlling light. To this we have two basic controls, Aperture and Shutter. Or simply "hole" and "time". As I doubt many walk around with a hand held meter, we all rely on the built in light meter system to measure this light.
So it doesn't matter if you set or the camera does, you both relying on the same information. All the modes are doing is selection a preference or bias toward either exposure time or aperture. They are the only variables we have to play with. (ignoring ISO for now, assuming it's been set to fixed).
Where the difference is made is reading the setting either you or the camera is suggesting, and understanding the effect.
So a little test
So the camera has measured the light, and it reported 1/15th Sec at F8, using 100mm lens. What are you going to think and do ??????
Next day your are out shooting the landscape, nice building in the foreground, hills to the far, camera says ..... 1/1000th at F4.5 ......... what are you going to do ??????
Next question, if the meter reading is 1/2000 at f5.6 what will the speed be at f16 ????
When you have grasped these basic, then you can start to think about being more clever than then the camera's meter. Dialing in deliberate "errors" or "compensation" to the reading.
It all come to understand and controlling light, all camera's have had that ability since they were invented
.... newer and "better", just give you more options in the way you work. But some times all the technology and automation lets you down, if you don't understand the basics first.ermmmmm.....
Change the 100mm to a 15mm lens
Shout for the people in the building to wave out of the window
F16's - They fly at Mach 1.2
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ermmmmm.....
- Change the 100mm to a 15mm lens
- Shout for the people in the building to wave out of the window
- F16's - They fly at Mach 1.2
comeon, no need to be jealous!
For info - The 16-35 has a minimum focus distance of 28cm; anything closer will be out of focus.
My guess for your holiday is that you won't need the 24-70 and will rarely use the 100-400. Save the weight and hassle and leave them at home.
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Yup, exactly that
The portraits won’t need to be full frame people shots because you’re showing them in the Maldives environment.
Remember, the 16-35 is effectively 25-56mm on the 10D taking into account the 1.6x crop factor.
ermmmmm.....
Change the 100mm to a 15mm lens
Shout for the people in the building to wave out of the window
F16's - They fly at Mach 1.2
Would you like some easier questions ....so you can join in as well ??