Cant get my PC running. Fan error, crazy temps.

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I've been away for a month and when I started up my PC I got a CPU Fan error. I don't have a CPU Fan in the header I've got a water cooler. I hit F1 as instructed and in BIOS I can see the CPU Fan is N/A and I can see nothing else out of the ordinary apart from the temps. The Motherboard is at around 30 C but the CPU is at around 75 C, on boot up, well not even I'm just in BIOS I've not got it to boot yet. I get about 2-3 minuets in BIOS as the CPU temp creeps up and just before it hits 80 C the PC shuts down again.

Anyone got any ideas?
 
I believe its a Corsair H100 water cooler. Fans are working but I'm not sure how to tell if the pump is?
Could the CPU really heat up like that under no load in a few minutes?

I went into BIOS and told it to ignore the CPU Fan. Now it’s giving me: “CPU over Temperature error.” And it is. It’s at about 60C on entering BIOS, goes up at about a degree a second to around 74C then creeps up over the next few minutes till the PC shuts down.
 
If your CPU is reaching those temps when idle then there is definitely something wrong with the cooling system. Not sure how you can test it without pulling it apart though, maybe someone else can help.
 
To be clear it was not Idle it was off for a month and I tried to boot it up and got an error so I went into BIOS and saw a Temp reading of just over 60C then about 20 seconds later it was at 75C. I'm not too computer savvy but can a CPU under no load, running only BIOS hit 80C after a few minutes?

If I had no fan attached to my CPU, for example, would you expect it to be impossible to boot the PC due to CPU Temp errors?
 
absolutely it can, if you run with no cooling it won't complete post before it over heats. If it is a dead pump then its just a question of how long it takes to heat up the water. Even at idle it will keep heating up, just slower than at load
 
The H100 already has a power cable that comes from the CPU fan header and the power supply. It's also got a USB cable from the motherboard to the main unit over the CPU, I'm guessing that's what holds the pump.
 
it's got to be over 5 years old so I can't resent it too much for conking out. If the temps seem normal for a CPU with no cooling and no other common faults spring to anyone's mind that would lead to these symptoms then I'm going to presume that's the case and pick up a new one. hopefully, that'd do the trick.

No one likes spending money but staring at a PC that won't start for unknown reasons has sucked up such a huge chunk of my life at this point I'm always relieved to have an answer, even if it does cost money.

Thanks for the advice folks.
 
You could stick your head in the case - you can hear the audible hum of the pump. Just mind your ear on the fans :D
Alternatively, if you can rapidly get into Windows, fire up Corsair link (if installed) and it should give you a read out on what the pump RPM is.

If nothing has changed in your rig and all connections to pump & mobo are secure, it does sound along the lines of a dead pump.
 
Nothing's changed, I did a visual once-over and checked the sockets to be sure. I can't fit my head in there to put my ear on the block and there are too many fans going to judge it otherwise but C-Link, that's a smart idea. I uninstalled it years ago because it was so buggy but it's a small program so I've managed to quickly reinstall it from a USB before the PC shut down. I didn't have time to open it properly and it's giving me the overheating CPU error now but I'll leave it for half an hour or so and see if I can get it up and running long enough to have a look.
 
This was the first PC I built so I only have what I bought to put this together.

I put the CPU fan in BIOS as ignoring to avoid the CPU Fan Error and left it a few hours so it was cold to avoid the CPU Temp Error and it booted up. I ran Open Hardware Monitor and Corsair Link side by side and took a screen grab every minute till it shut down.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/2tfszpc0g/

C-Link read the temps as about 10C higher than OHM, the temps out of OHM looked about the same as the temps in BIOS. C-Link also recorded the Pump as working at about 2440 rpm up until the PC shut down.

By Stock Cooler you mean one of the metal blocks cut into fins with fans mounted on them? I could pick up just to test it out I guess, they seem to be cheap. I'm a bit less certain not C-Link is claiming the pump is working.
 
On the assumption that the pump is reporting correctly (and there is no reason to believe otherwise) that's odd.
From those screen shots, it looks like the heat isn't being dissipated from the radiator as both CPU and the pump temps are very high.

If you click pump in Corsair link, you can set it to Performance mode which pushes the liquid around a bit quicker.
I don't think that is the problem per se, but may give you an extra minute or two within Windows to troubleshoot.

I would personally perform a visual inspection of your H100 around the pump to ensure there has been no leakage. I would also inspect your radiator to see if it is heavily clogged with dust. Also ensure your fans are running as expected (visually can be tricky, but I mean along the lines that they are spinning at a decent pace).

If all above are ok, it may be that there is air within your loop. I read an article a while back which suggested that over longer periods of time, some Corsair AIO coolers will "lose" some of it's liquid and air pockets can appear. I'll see if I can find it.
Lastly, there maybe crud in the loop preventing a decent water flow. Not something that you could do to prevent, but again something I read some time ago whilst researching the Corsair AIO coolers for my rig.

If it's either of the last two, you could be adventurous and try and refill/disassemble to fix... But I would personally buy a new AIO.
 
All the fans, including the cooler ones, are in good shape and work when they should. The unit's a little dusty but apart from that, it looks as it did new. I gave a full and thorough inspection of the whole system, nothing to report. As long as these numbers narrow it down to the cooler and there is nothing else that could be making the CPU overheat like this then I'm good to go and I'll just replace it. My concern in buying a new one only to find the same results because something else like the CPU or motherboard is to blame, or worse some software issue, Corsair drivers or something wrong in the BIOS.
 
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