Carpentry/cabinet making advice

[Lopéz]

I'm currently making some wardrobes and storage units. I've made things similar to this the past but I've come across an issue I've not encountered previously.

Please excuse the sharp edges, nothing's been routed/sanded smoothed or fixed into place yet.

As you can see the wardrobe/cupboards extend right the way to the outside wall of the house. This is where I want to mount my hinges. I can't see me being able to accurately fit hinges whilst also allow an opening door straight off the outside wall.

The way I see it I have a couple of options

1) Add another side to the left of the units. Easiest solution as it makes the carcass into a full box, but costs more due to the extra wood needed.

2) Use MDF offcuts fixed directly to the wall that go deep enough into the cupboard to allow hinges to be mounted on them.

3) 2x2 batten mounted on the wall with the hinges attached to it. Not convinced I could do this strongly enough to not have it flex too much when the door is open

4) Fit the hinges to the right hand side of the carcass and have them opening the "wrong" way, ie so they end up flat against the bed.

Any ideas or tips?

 

[Nightglow]

Option 3.

Why can't you mount three hinges on the door, I've done that in the past to stop door flexing.

Other way I've done it, is to make up compete frame (cabinet face frame) out of 2x1 assemble using glue & pocket screws, then if you have router or biscuit jointer, cut slots & use No 20 biscuits to attach it to carcass.

 

[Maccapacca]

You need a filler piece with some structure behind to be able to support the door and hinges, this is a corner or our fitted wardrobes

 

[Maccapacca]

Some more showing the same, this one is not finished as they sent us the wrong door size <100mm doh

They are handle free so the brushed chrome bar sits behind the door

The cabinet sits in front of the wall and the filler piece covers a void

Daughters room finished bar a bit of painters mate to hide the wavy ceiling

 

[Lopéz]

Cheers for the pics, so if I use a thick (deep) enough MDF offcut as a filler piece screwed directly to the wall, I should be able to fit my hinges on to that.

 

[Maccapacca]

100mm rip floor to ceiling screwed and grip filled to the wall should do then you can paint the edge you see

 

[Lopéz]

Yep, cheers

 

[WillyNelson]

Why not just screw a piece of battening to the wall, floor to ceiling, in lieu of a proper frame and then mount the door to that?

 

[bitslice]

100mm rip floor to ceiling screwed and grip filled to the wall should do then you can paint the edge you see

This,
Although I'd use 28mm plywood rather than MDF, and maybe some vinyl cover strip to neaten the edge.

 

[Maccapacca]

Why not just screw a piece of battening to the wall, floor to ceiling, in lieu of a proper frame and then mount the door to that?

A batten will constantly want to twist unless you use cls or similar where as a 100mm rip will take the hinges assuming using cabinet hinges and won't be able to twist

 

[Lopéz]

A batten will constantly want to twist unless you use cls or similar where as a 100mm rip will take the hinges assuming using cabinet hinges and won't be able to twist

Yep that was my fear in point 3) in my first post. Rips are now Gripfilled to the wall and ready to take cabinet hinges