Changing a CV gaiter
- Thread starter wijcc
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if its come away at the driveshaft end simply clean it up and use a zip-tie to remount.
if its come away at the joint end you will was some metal banding to refit it.
dont forget to add in some extra grease and clean everything off if it has been leaking.
messy work but easy enough.
if its come away at the joint end you will was some metal banding to refit it.
dont forget to add in some extra grease and clean everything off if it has been leaking.
messy work but easy enough.
Soldato
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Not a difficult job to do if you can use a spanner. But there's no point in doing it if its in good nick. Pack it full of grease, and re-secure it again.
tried re-housing it and also tried a metal banding but it just won't stay put. I have been advised to use a rubber gaither instead of a hard plastic one. I think I have worked out how to do fit a new gaiter, doesn't look too hard. WIll try a new rubber gaiter
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You could always cheat and use a already split gaiter .....nothing to take apart glue and you're. Although there is mixed reviews about these and they probably vary in quality and are mot passable.
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It's a difficult job to replace the CV boot if you don't have any mechanical experience (which i don't think you have) and a decent socket set and ball joint splitter. If it wont stay put with the car stationary, it definitley wont stay put driving the car to the mot station. If the car is driven for extended periods with a damaged CV boot, the grease leaks out and the CV joint will wear out very quickly costing hundreds instead of tens of pounds. Best thing to do is get the garage to do it. Should cost no more than £70 and 1 hours labour
Wheel off, undo hub nut, split balljoint, lift strut clear of driveshaft, cut off old boot, slide on new boot with one of those funky cone applicators they tend to come with nowadays, repack with grease, secure clips, reassemble.
This is why the current generation is missing out on the fun of digging around in the grease looking for a circlip.
Is it the inner or outer CV joint gaitor. Outers are easier then inners. Inners *may* require you to drain gearbox oil etc. As mentioned above, I would be inclined to get a local garage to take a look so as not to bugger things any more than they maybe. Its not a big job but if you're unsure and because you have asked here I would get someone who has done them before to do it mate.
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Just replace them, it's not expensive, you don't even need to take the wheel off in most cases.
It's not a huge job, but it's not a particularly simple one either if you aren't very experienced with cars. The hub nuts of FWD cars are (or should be) very, very tight. You will need a decent quality socket set, ideally something larger than 1/2" drive with a big breaker bar, or an impact gun.
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You don't need to do anything to the hub.
Just undo the wishbone at one end, usually. Some more minor dismantling and the wheel can swing out and the drive shaft is free.
Just undo the wishbone at one end, usually. Some more minor dismantling and the wheel can swing out and the drive shaft is free.
On every FWD car I have worked on you need to undo the large nut that holds the CV into the hub and they can be tightened to 300nm or more depending on the car. How else do you get the CV boot on? (unless using crappy split ones of course).
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My old Uno didn't need that. As I said, you just whip end of the wishbone off at the hub end, and the drive shaft with boots is almost free, once you can swing the wheel out.
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If you like doing CV gaitors every week maybe...
TBH Id get a garage to do something like that, lots of messy grease and if you havent dont much on a car before its far less hassle.
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Are you on about the inner CV joint there? Leaving the spider housing in the gearbox?
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Was doing the ones at the wheel end, could have done the inner ones had we removed a few more bolts.
Perhaps when you have more than 45bhp there's rather more than luck and good will holding the drive shaft in the CV joint.