Changing brake disc/pads - how difficult?

Duke

Duke

Duke

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I'm looking to upgrade my puma brake pads as I'm going on track a few times this year. From reading up it seems quite an easy job, also changing the discs isn't too much additional work?

I have found some drilled grooved discs online for £89 (for the pair I assume?). Will they give better performance or is it best just changing the pads for a good make (red dot are £37).

Any help or experience would be great :)
 
Right well changing the discs and pads is an easy job, just take your time and use copper slip grease on the back of the new discs pressing against the hub and behind the brake pads themselves

As for drilled and grooved discs? Well in my opinion discs that are drilled are a waste of time, and grooved really aren't an improvement either. Some people claim the grooves remove the glaze from the pads when you brake hard and they get hot, but if thats true I never noticed any difference

Look at it from this point of view. The only thing you have stopping you is your brake pads contact on the disc. By covering it with grooves and holes you are reducing that contact area...

Getting better pads DOES make a difference, however as with all these things it's a trade off. Pads that stop faster typically wear out faster so bare that in mind, they also produce masses of brake dust. The only exception to that rule that I have used are EBC's Greenstuff pads, many claim they warp discs however and I have to admit I warped a couple of my front discs on my old Fiesta turbo after fitting them so it's certainly possible
 
Got some grooved discs on my TD and noticed no difference at all (GTi calipers + discs), felt a bit of vibration through the pedal.

Save your cash and get standard discs mate, perhaps get some uprated pads...

As said, changing the brakes are really easy. Make sure you have someone to help you bleed the brakes after you're done.
 
I just upgraded my pad, calipers and discs, not the easiest job (subaru's annoying handbreak shoe adjuster was mostly to blame!) but certainly a noticeable difference, although given my rear discs are larger than most peoples front discs its all much of a muchness :p

certainly worth doing and good practice, I used a one man bleed kit from halfords in case you need to prime the brake fluid system :)
 
Enfield said:
Will, in what way did you notice a difference?
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had definite noticeable fade from the rears, and it was all too apparent that my fronts were doing 95% of the work, the car feels infinitely more stable now when jumping on the anchors at 130leptons, before it was mildly un-nerving now its actually fun and I look forward to breaking later safe in the knowledge I have the anchors to cope :)
 
Ah right, sort of skim read your post and imaged a few things. :p

Thought you said you fitted grooved discs. They only really stop brake but I doubt one would notice much difference. I guess the most noticeable changes would be in the size of the disc and the type of pad.
 
Enfield said:
Ah right, sort of skim read your post and imaged a few things. :p

Thought you said you fitted grooved discs. They only really stop brake but I doubt one would notice much difference. I guess the most noticeable changes would be in the size of the disc and the type of pad.
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I fitted 297mm grooved rears
two pot calipers (up from single pot floating affair)
braided hoses
brand new 03 pads

consider that before I had scored and dated discs (much smaller too), crappy floating calipers, rubber hoses and old pads you can quickly see the obvious upgrade and resultant performance im referring to :)
 
Very easy job, I did the pads on the Civic last weekend and I think it took me 40 minutes and that was stopping to photograph every stage to make a short guide for someone.
 
Thanks for the input :) I will probably just change the pads for now. The front discs (drums on the back) are tiny on the pre-2000 pumas - 240mm same as the fiesta mark4 it's based on :o (post-2000 come with 260mm).
 
Make sure you de-glaze the discs before you put them on - sorry if you already know this!

Brake cleaner is good for this.
 
And when you put the the calipers back (if you take them off) that you don't twist the brake hose, otherwise your car will fail it's MOT (whoops).

Get some molegrips clamped onto the brake hose before you unscrew it from the caliper aswell...don't pinch it too tight.

It's an easy job to do to be honest, just take your time and try to do it when it's not raining lol
 
Enfield said:
And when you put the the calipers back (if you take them off) that you don't twist the brake hose, otherwise your car will fail it's MOT (whoops).

Get some molegrips clamped onto the brake hose before you unscrew it from the caliper aswell...don't pinch it too tight.

It's an easy job to do to be honest, just take your time and try to do it when it's not raining lol
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thats good advice, saves you having to prime the whole brake system
 
Will Gill said:
thats good advice, saves you having to prime the whole brake system
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You'll still need to bleed the brakes though.

I use a little hose type thing and a jar. Undo the bleed nipple a bit, stick the hose on it, submerge the other end into water (fill the jar with a little bit) and get someone to pump the brake pedal till you can see the brake fluid going through the hose solidly (no air bubbles).

When there are no bubbles, get the other person to hold the brake down firmly and tighten up the bleed nipple.

Do this on both calipers. All should be hunky dorey.
 
Stonedofmoo said:
Why would you need to bleed the brake system if you are simply changing the discs and pads :confused:
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He might want to remove the calipers just to get them out of the way. Doesn't hurt to know though does it, all good practise.
 
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