Changing Flexi Hoses and Bleeding Brakes

Tesla

Tesla

Tesla

Soldato
Joined
19 Jan 2003
Posts
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Location
Bristol, UK
Hi all,

Last Autumn I replaced the front calipers on my Mrs. Fiesta Mk5 (1.25).
At the same time I replaced the front flexi hoses.

A few months prior to this I had fitted new pads and discs up front and new shoes and brake cylinders to the rear.

When I bought the callipers I did actually purchase a full set of hoses but haven't fitted the rears yet. If I recall I attached the new hoses to the new callipers before fitting anything then I could just spin the caliper if needed when attaching the other end of the hose to the fixed brake line.

Obviously I cannot spin the rears very easily. What is the normal procedure for replacing the rear hoses? I assume each end of the hose can spin independently otherwise the hose will twist? (OK, I should have dug them out of the shed and looked before posting) Also, will I need to bleed all 4 corners of the car after replacing just the rear hoses? Are there any tricks to ensure air doesn't go back in (perhaps by making a steady flow of fluid come out?).

Cheers.
 
No you wont need to bleed all 4 corners, just the back. The best way to minimise fluid loss and air in the system is to open a bleed nipple at the back then get something to hold the brake pedel down to the floor while you do the rest of the work.
 
realscot said:
The best way to minimise fluid loss and air in the system is to open a bleed nipple at the back then get something to hold the brake pedel down to the floor while you do the rest of the work.
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I don't think it is, something about overextending the brake pedal and doing nasty things to the seals in the master cylinder. Just realise you're going to have to bleed the brakes anyway so take the time and do it methodically with some help?

Brake fluid is cheap, replacing your wife is not?
 
thepedster said:
I don't think it is, something about overextending the brake pedal and doing nasty things to the seals in the master cylinder. Just realise you're going to have to bleed the brakes anyway so take the time and do it methodically with some help?

Brake fluid is cheap, replacing your wife is not?
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umm ok? Well i've been doing my method about half a dozen times a week for the last 10 years and never had an issue. I can't see how pedal travel can have any effect on the master cylinder, before the wide use of self bleeding tools this is pretty much how it was always done.
 
I bleed all four corners as a matter of course if I do any work on a car with ABS and was replacing calipers or hoses on any part of the car.

Overkill ?

Perhaps.

Sensible? Definitely.

Bleeding brakes is so easy its not too hard to take the extra precaution.
 
realscot said:
umm ok? Well i've been doing my method about half a dozen times a week for the last 10 years and never had an issue. I can't see how pedal travel can have any effect on the master cylinder, before the wide use of self bleeding tools this is pretty much how it was always done.
Click to expand...

Its a precaution on old cars, that would or might have corrosion in the M/C.

Sticking your foot right to the floor CAN in some cases wreck the seals as they scrape against the corrosion in the part of the cylinder that was never used during normal braking and pedal travel.

Its not exactly a guarantee that it will happen, just a possibility on an old car.
 
TangoSixteen said:
Its a precaution on old cars, that would or might have corrosion in the M/C.

Sticking your foot right to the floor CAN in some cases wreck the seals as they scrape against the corrosion in the part of the cylinder that was never used during normal braking and pedal travel.

Its not exactly a guarantee that it will happen, just a possibility on an old car.
Click to expand...

This pretty much.

I'm also a user of the "Jam the pedal on" method, but over extending the pedal is something to be wary of. It's not common (I've never seen it happen) but it certainly possible.
 
I bled all 4 corners in the end.

The hoses connected to the rear cylinders first and then the nut on the flared end of the solid brake pipe screwed onto the hose.

The old pipes were not too bad actually, they had minimal cracking of the rubber, the fronts were much worse but then I guess the fronts move around more and in more direction than the rears.
 
I am bumping this old thread as whilst working on the Fiesta over the past couple of weekends, new clutch and cambelt, I have noted that the front flexi brake hoses I previously installed have been chafing/rubbing on the wheel arch or against the metal hose bracket. It's as if they are too long and the slack hose is in the way.

A picture speaks a thousand words:

Photo%2009-12-2012%2011%2047%2047%20%28Medium%29.jpg


This is taken with the wheel removed so the suspension is at rest. When under load there is more excess hose. The top of the hose cannot rotate, the caliper end can rotate so i can change where the hose bends. It seems to always rub on something, the arch, bracket or tyre.

Any ideas? I've tried googling for some photos to compare it to. Also checked parts websites and they all stock the same hose, 400mm in length. I will have to measure the currently fitted hose as do not know it's length. I have noted some hoses on ebay have some sort of extra ring/hoop to take up slack?

Cheers.
 
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Clarkey said:
You didn't compare the length with the old ones when you replaced them?
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I don't remember but I likely would have, I always compare new parts with their replacements. Certainly cannot rule it out though.
 
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Bend the metal bracket so things do not touch.
Make sure where you bend it too doesn't foul the tyre when you put the wheel back on though. (check it lock to lock as well)

But to be honest, that's what the spring is there for, to stop the hose itself from chaffing through.
 
Another bump, finally got round to fitting genuine Ford hoses this morning.

Hoses were identical in length but as discussed the Ford parts have an additional clip and sheath which prevents the hose from rubbing on the wheel arch or the retaining bracket.

Now just to cure the airbag light and hopefully will pass it's MOT.

Tempted to eBay it with the 12 months MOT and replace with some crappy RWD Japanese Roadster, for the Mrs of course.
 
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