Clutch Adjustment? Dogbreath?

AmDaMan

AmDaMan

AmDaMan

Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
4,020
Location
Wellington, NZ
Hi, my clutch has been annoying me so i decided to get a new clutch assembly.
Basically there was like 3-4cm in the pedal before any pressure is felt. So I assumed it was the rachet system or springs.

However if i try and adjust the cable (to remove any slack) with a say 0.5 cm washer at the cluch arm side the slack in the pedal goes away BUT i'm left with a strange feeling pedal, it kinda has 2 stages to it which makes it undrivable really. it goes about 3/4 down then more pressure is felt for a split secont then the rest!

So I doubt a new cable would sort that out. So with a new clutch installed the pedal bites right at the very bottom which sometimes makes it hard to change gear, especially reverse.

What's the problem with it? Why is there so much slack before the rachets bite?

Oh and installing that clutch assemble was the most annoying irritating thing i've ever done. The only thing that comes close is when I had to get the exhaust manifold of my mini :eek:

TIA
 
You need to make sure that movement at the pedal is being translated into full movement at the clutch release arm, obviously you will need someone to operate the clucth pedal as you look at the operating arm (usualy) on top of the gearbox. If the arm on the gearbox dosen't appear to be moving very much, then you need to trace where the motion is being lost.

A possible cause for these symptoms is either a cracked bracket somewhere in the pedal/cable assembly, or possibly a cracked clutch operating arm (which could easily be at a point inside the clutch housing). Any of these will cause loss of movement and give the pedal a horrible springy feel that makes getting the biting point repeatably very difficult.

Did you install a full 3 in 1 clutch kit, i.e. friction plate, clutch cover and release bearing or did you just install a new friction plate? If so, a cracked diaphragm spring could potenetialy be the cause of your problems, though this usualy results in the clucth slipping as well.
 
1.the biting point should be closer to the floor,but not on it as you seem to be saying.
as the clutch wears the biting point usually rises.

2.i'd advise against using any kind of spacer on the release arm.

3.i'd check the condition of the pedal ratchet,although you have my deepest sympathies if this is the problem as it can be a bad job to change depending on the vehicle.
 
Hi, when the clutch got in it had all of it I think defintely the clutch plate and release bearing.

I have changed the pedal, it was the worst job ever. I did this to make sure it wasn't the rachet or the spring.

What seems to be happening is before the ratchets catch there seems to be about 4cm before the teeth meet (i've looked at this and it wasn't comfortable) Now what would be the reason for this? A streched cable right? So that's why I put a washer at the clutch arm end to emulate a shorter cable. This fixed the excessive pedal travel BUT in return I get the horrible 2 step springy clutch as mentioned.
 
it could be a stretched cable...best way to check is remove it and take it to an autoparts shop where you compare lengths (oo err matron).
the spacer you're using will damage the existing cable and or the release arm over time.
if you're sure the ratchet isn't damaged and missing any teeth then you need to be looking elsewhere.

are you sure the release arm is sitting on it's pivotal point correctly?
did you change the full clutch or just the plate?
does the clutch slip at all in operation?
 
Wouldn't that rubber spacer emulate a smaller cable?

The rachet and spring are fine as the pedal is new.

I'm sure the full clutch got done, the plate, the bearing and this other part with lots of splines on it (the bit that the release bearing presses against)

The clutch doesn't slip at all.

I'm not sure how to check the release arm, looks ok, just a bit old.

Oh and when i'm pulling away or on full lock I somethimes hear a clunking noise and I think it's a driveshaft.. is a new driveshaft the only way to sort this or is it a bearing or something?

Funny how it all happens after the MOT. It's a 1.4 M Reg clio.
 
AmDaMan said:
Wouldn't that rubber spacer emulate a smaller cable?
Click to expand...
it would,but it wouldn't stand upto the force for any real length of time.
AmDaMan said:
I'm not sure how to check the release arm, looks ok, just a bit old.
Click to expand...
sorry i thought you meant you'd changed the clutch yourself.the pivot point is inside the bellhousing so the only way to check it is with the gearbox removed.
AmDaMan said:
Oh and when i'm pulling away or on full lock I somethimes hear a clunking noise and I think it's a driveshaft.. is a new driveshaft the only way to sort this or is it a bearing or something?
Click to expand...
even though medical advice is forbidden in here,i feel it's my duty to tell you that your balls are worn.
new driveshaft i'm afraid.
 
Hmm right ok so lets assume it's not the pedal assmebly or cable what else could it possibly be? Just the pivot point? If so what exactly needs to be done to it?

My balls are worn?? :eek: :( Gutted! really I am.
 
AmDaMan said:
Hmm right ok so lets assume it's not the pedal assmebly or cable what else could it possibly be? Just the pivot point? If so what exactly needs to be done to it?

My balls are worn?? :eek: :( Gutted! really I am.
Click to expand...
try checking the cable length first.
you aint changed the cable recently have you?
no possibility you may have the wrong cable fitted?

sorry to hear about your balls.
 
Hmm well if the cable was longer that definately would cause problems, and if it was shorter (as i demonstrated with the washer) if has the horrible 2 step spring in the pedal! :(

Edit: no not changed the cable recently. I was never really bothered about the clutch pedal travel before as my clutch was worn so it didn't bite at the floor.

Now it's a nightmare. I have to turn the engine off to get it in reverse or it crunches like hell. Once it's in reverse I can't get it back into 1st.

But if i put the washer in its ok but that spring 3/4 of the way down makes it impossible to smoothly bite.
 
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Err well I can only assume so. It has a 2year warranty so...

Ive just been outside and disconnected the cable then I noticed there is 1bout 1-1.5cm play in the release fork... What does this indicate?

cheers.
 
AmDaMan said:
Err well I can only assume so. It has a 2year warranty so...

Ive just been outside and disconnected the cable then I noticed there is 1bout 1-1.5cm play in the release fork... What does this indicate?

cheers.
Click to expand...
assuming the correct clutch has been fitted, and properly so, then the cable may be stretched or the release arm excessively worn although if the latter were true i'd have expected this to be picked up upon when the clutch was changed.
 
I thought we had come to the conclusion it wasn't the cable (i've bought a new one just incase) because of how it performed with the washer on?

When he fitted the clutch he assumed it was either the pedal or arm iirc. I've rung him up anyway and he's going to have a look but I can't see it being anything else but the arm.

He says that it's hard to tell though without having another working one to compare it to?
 
Hey up, an update:

Took it in today and he's had the gearbox off and can't find a problem? He says the arm looks ok but he's ordered another to be sure (it did look battered to me anyways)

So if it's not the arm or pedal it can only be the cable but this seems fine and it's been demonstrated that the shorter cable was causing the strange spring step in the clutch pedal and excessive free travel on the clutch if the cable is left in it's normal state?!?!
 
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