Clutch starting to go...

Elixir

Elixir

Elixir

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Joined
17 Jul 2011
Posts
2,079
Hi all,

I currently drive an Audi S3 8v (2014), and I’m starting to get clutch slip when accelerating hard in higher gears. I first noticed it a while ago but it’s getting worse over time, as you’d expect.

Unfortunately some basic internet research shows that the clutches in these cars are made of peanut butter and don’t tend to last very long. I’ve got the manual version, and it has done just over 34,000 miles.

This is the first time I’ve had clutch issues, so was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to proceed. The car is still very much drivable, I just need to be more conscious about how much juice I’m giving it in 5th/6th, but I’m not sure how long this will last? Should I just carry on with the current clutch until it becomes a real issue and deal with it then?

The second part of the discussion is about what to replace it with - it’s clear the OEM clutch isn’t up for the job, so I’ve been looking at Sach’s clutches as a replacement. Presumably I’d also need to replace the flywheel as part of this change? I think I’d be opting for the organic clutch rather than the sintered version which sounds a bit aggressive, I’m not too bothered about launching the car into the back of whoever is in front of me at traffic lights... but happy to hear any experiences or opinions related to clutch choice either way.

Cheers!
 
I'm currently looking into getting an S3 and have heard horror stories about the manual clutches.

In regards to the flywheel at 34k I can't imagine it's taken a huge amount of wear. I'd get it inspected to be sure whilst it's in bits but most likely wont need replacing.
 
Hi looking at it seems that it is the pressure plate can't deal with the power and 4wd system.
If been slipping you'd probably need to change flywheel as gets blued hot spots from grabbing could maybe get it refaced?
Have a look at uprated clutches Sachs are good mind there OE most probably for AUDI anyway.many have gone four paddle type but need to check if suitable for you.

But it isn't the "Launching" it's to do with torque when on boost V drivetrain drag so the little ole clutch is in the middle and gives up!

Best place is a Motor sport place somewhere that works/deals with heavily modded VW/Audi as will have turned up to them to deal with.
Also Trading standards if give Sh!tes as a very well known issue that there trying to dodge but some have stood there ground and got sorted.
 
Delta3D said:
I'm currently looking into getting an S3 and have heard horror stories about the manual clutches.

In regards to the flywheel at 34k I can't imagine it's taken a huge amount of wear. I'd get it inspected to be sure whilst it's in bits but most likely wont need replacing.
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It’s a shame, they are great cars other than the clutch issues. I’m not a huge fan of autos as I find them less fun to drive, but probably going to end up going that way if I upgrade in the future.

Thanks for the comments regarding the flywheel - hopefully it’s still in reasonable nick.

area51 said:
Hi looking at it seems that it is the pressure plate can't deal with the power and 4wd system.
If been slipping you'd probably need to change flywheel as gets blued hot spots from grabbing could maybe get it refaced?
Have a look at uprated clutches Sachs are good mind there OE most probably for AUDI anyway.many have gone four paddle type but need to check if suitable for you.

But it isn't the "Launching" it's to do with torque when on boost V drivetrain drag so the little ole clutch is in the middle and gives up!

Best place is a Motor sport place somewhere that works/deals with heavily modded VW/Audi as will have turned up to them to deal with.
Also Trading standards if give Sh!tes as a very well known issue that there trying to dodge but some have stood there ground and got sorted.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I’ll try and find somewhere suitable in the Aberdeen area and see what they think about the flywheel. Looks like it’ll be an extra £400-500 for a new one so if it can be avoided then that’s obviously preferable.

Does anyone have any experience with a sintered/4 paddle clutch? There are a lot of comments about it being a bit harsh for everyday use.
 
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I guess the question is how knackered the flywheel is as a result of the duff clutch - you wouldn’t usually expect to have to replace either after 34k miles!
 
Elixir said:
It’s a shame, they are great cars other than the clutch issues. I’m not a huge fan of autos as I find them less fun to drive, but probably going to end up going that way if I upgrade in the future.

Thanks for the comments regarding the flywheel - hopefully it’s still in reasonable nick.
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Yeah it's a real shame. I'm looking for an Auto one partly because of that, but also just to try one out really. Going from an 86 and will miss the slick gear changes :(

In my eyes about the flywheel is that it could quite likely last up to around 80-100k, so chances are you may either get rid before then or even (hopefully not) burn through another clutch around then which would save labour costs anyway.

Would certainly avoid a paddle clutch and go for an organic one still. Should be able to get a tougher than OEM one somewhere I'd imagine. Paddle Clutches are notoriously bad for driving smoothly at slow speeds and will probably get right on your nerves within a few weeks.
 
samw part numbers as the 2.0 TDi clutch parts

saying that I've got 62k on mine running 360hp + 330 ftlbs and no slip

pedal has been mush from day one though, more feel from a polo!

In my experience not doing the flywheel at the same time can lead to all sorts of bedding in issues, whether it has life left in it or not
 
jsmoke said:
May as well get the pilot bearing changed as well. Flywheel debatable. Can get them skimmed also.
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Always get the spigot bearing done! very false economy as that little roller bearing can foock the whole job up even the gearbox if breaks up as it's the support for opposite end of first motion shaft ie input shaft and other end is a single row ball race which can't tolerate lateral float/motion why when Bell end gearbox monkeys do clutches hanging gearbox on shaft you can't get into first gear!
 
eviled said:
samw part numbers as the 2.0 TDi clutch parts

saying that I've got 62k on mine running 360hp + 330 ftlbs and no slip

pedal has been mush from day one though, more feel from a polo!

In my experience not doing the flywheel at the same time can lead to all sorts of bedding in issues, whether it has life left in it or not
Click to expand...


That was what i found clutch isn't upto the spec of that power and drive train drag needs a heavier pressure plate at minimum.

With flywheel if clutch has been slipping/juddering you get like burn't spots on the flywheel surface which can even crack seen em do that before
 
Elixir said:
It’s a shame, they are great cars other than the clutch issues. I’m not a huge fan of autos as I find them less fun to drive, but probably going to end up going that way if I upgrade in the future.

Thanks for the comments regarding the flywheel - hopefully it’s still in reasonable nick.



Thanks. I’ll try and find somewhere suitable in the Aberdeen area and see what they think about the flywheel. Looks like it’ll be an extra £400-500 for a new one so if it can be avoided then that’s obviously preferable.

Does anyone have any experience with a sintered/4 paddle clutch? There are a lot of comments about it being a bit harsh for everyday use.
Click to expand...


Try and get it all as a kit from somewhere is cheapest but not always best! id look at all the uprated options esp pressure plate at minimum.
It's isn't the issue so much pulling away as in first gear it's easier for it to propel but when in higher gears with engine on boost it's just to much drag from transmission and torque from engine for it to handle

There are more than one type of paddle clutch seen them with the springs in centre like an OE unit but also without for competition use.

Try these people they are more a Trade/Competition only place but excellent knowledge plus kit used to get my brakes bits there http://www.questmead.co.uk/

Say your running it on the road for now then hoping later to play with looking to do track days etc so need something roadable for the time being
 
My own experience with paddle clutches on my track car was a nightmare, altho it was cable and not hydraulic.

I had everything from snapped clutch cables to bent gearbox arms. Then upgraded the cable and actually snapped the clutch pedal :(
 
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