Cooking with Jonny69: Picking cooking knives. BIG SHINY ONES!!!

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Trying hard here to not scare everyone but I like big knives and I've got loads of them! Big knives impress me and I'm drawn to them when I see them shining in a shop. Luckily mine are all in the kitchen and I only use them for hacking food up but I've noticed that some make more of a mess than others. I'm not professing to be any kind of expert and this is by no means an extensive guide but this is where you might like to start.

First things first there are lots and lots of knives out there and you've got fashionable knives and classic cook's knives. I would avoid the fashionable knives and go for a classic style knife any day. This is purely my own opinion but the way I see it is the kitchen knife evolved into a certain shape because that's what worked best. By fashionable knives I mean all those ones with the funny shaped 'ergonomic' handles, designery names etc. You might prefer them but personally I don't, the best thing to do is go and try some out and see what you like.

What to look for:

Most important is the steel on the blade. Cheap knives use softer steel and go blunt quickly. They bend, you'll be forever sharpening them and you'll wear it out in no time. A good guide to the quality of the knife is if it's a Sabatier. Sabatier isn't a 'make' it's more of a conformant to how the knife is made, the grade of steel used and it's a pretty good start if you haven't bought knives before. If you know your steels then ultimately the best way to judge your knife is to have a feel of it and you'll be able to tell if it's good or bad. Generally a hard steel goes *schinnnngggggg* satisfactorily when you pull it out the block and you'll smile when it happens and call someone over so you can show them. Then when you buy them you will want to show all your mates or they will pick the knife up and be impressed that it sounds Hollywood good. Hard steel rings and soft doesn't, harder steel is also duller in colour and less chrome looking as a general rule.

Make sure the blade has a constant curve along its length. Some knives have a straight section down near the handle end of the blade and if the quality control isn't great you can end up with it going the wrong way and your knife won't cut all the way through your food! Just something to look for and be aware of...

Price:

These are the knives I have at the moment:

knives1.jpg


I got the block of 5 for just under £100 in Debenhams. It was a brand I hadn't heard of but I was so impressed with the quality of the knives I knew they were the ones. The set comprises of a 10" cook's knife, a very sturdy 10" bread knife, a 10" carving knife, 4" paring knife and 6" vegetable knife. I also have a thin bladed cleaver which I use a lot of the time.

As a guide on price you want to be spending at least £20 per knife if you buy them individually and at least the same again on a steel to keep them sharp. You don't need a lot of knives, for day to day cooking these are the knives I use the most:

knives2.jpg


The cleaver gets used for practically everything and it sharpens up much easier and better than my other knives. That's more down to the shape of it I think but I use it for slicing meat, vegetables, chopping onion and garlic and chopping herbs. The added height of the blade also means I can chop quite fast against my knuckles without hacking my fingers off and note it's not a hacking type of cleaver for going through bones, it's more of a tall bladed knife. The cook's knife I tend to use for heavier duty stuff where I need the added blade length that the cleaver doesn't have and the paring knife is just the most used knife of the lot. It's just 'right' for practically everything and is razor sharp.

I paid £25 for my cleaver and it was money well spent, I've seen a similar model in a shop in Bluewater called Professional Cookware or something like that but it looks almost identical and the steel felt very nice.

Keeping them Sharp:

knives3.jpg


You need a good steel. Again use your own judgement on this but usually price is a good indicator of quality above a certain mark, I think mine was about £30. The steel must be as hard as your knives or you will shave it smooth. I used a cheap Kitchen Devils steel on my good knives and it got me nowhere apart from blunt knives, a pile of metal shavings and a dead steel. There are two types of sharpening steel: metal and ceramic. I've only ever used a metal one and that's been enough to keep my knives sharp. Global recommend you use their ceramic one and that may well be the best for their knives but I can't comment as I haven't tried it myself. To learn how to use a steel it really is best if you can get someone to show you how to do it properly. Most department stores with a cooking section will have someone there who is good at sharpening knives and will be able to recommend you a steel and show you how to use it. John Lewis is good for this. How much you have to sharpen them is down to the knife and what you use it for but I give them a once over every fourfth or fifth use as they stay pretty sharp.

I also recommend a wooden block as it helps keep the knives sharp. The last thing you want is for them to be rattling around in the cutlery drawer or to be stuck in a put with other utensils. They will go blunt and big blunt knives are bloody dangerous. The reason blunt knives are more dangerous than sharp ones is because of the added pressure you put on when you're cutting. A sharp blade will slice through most stuff when you pull it towards you but a blunt one will need lots of downward pressure. My 10" cook's knife will go through a raw chicken carcass like butter and your fingers are no different! Some people like to keep their knives up the other way in the block so the blade is facing upwards, again, personal preference but I haven't found it detrimental keeping them blade down.

Naturally your cutting board should be either plastic or wood. Don't use those glass ones on 'hygiene' grounds as you'll slip about on them and blunt your knives. Chopping boards are cheap, your knives aren't!

There are a few pro chefs in this forum so hopefully we should get some quality input from them, because as I said this is by no means meant to be an extensive guid and is no doubt inaccurate in places.
 
Actually on second thoughts the logo I was thinking about is Victorinox, unfortunately a bit out of my price range at the moment but probably when I come to replace these ones I'll get them.

Edit: what I forgot to say was those ones in my block are 6 years old now and go through the dishwasher every now and then. You should NEVER do this :p because it ruins the knife :o but I have a special place in my mini dishwasher where they aren't touching anything else and they seem to survive ok. Make sure they don't touch anything else metal if you do this...
 
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Those Shun knives look good, I've seen a few now with that layered feathered steel. Quality Shun marketing video here: http://www.altonbrown.com/shun/shun_flv_sm.html :D

M0KUJ1N said:
I hate trying to prepare food with blunt/ crappy knives, and ironically I find its more of a problem chopping vegetables than cutting meat.
The worst is anything with a skin, especially tomatoes and peppers. You're there sawing away pressing down way too hard and it's just too easy to slip and go through your fingers. A sharp edge just drops through it with one slide of the knife :cool:

Interesting how many people like Globals. I just can't get on with them :( find that the metal handle makes my hand sweat (even when it's cold) and they get slippery.
 
Col_M said:
I was tired of using cack, cheap, serrated knives so on the recommendation of my friend i'm going to get a Global too.
I'm going to find a shop that stocks them here and have a good feel of the ones i have shortlisted ;)
Yeah it's a shame you can't try them out in the shop really. I'm on my second set because my mum stole my Sabatiers :D but I knew exactly what I wanted in that second set.
 
Tholy bread hevival ratman!

Before that I used to use a MinoSharp Water Sharpener which kept my Global nice and sharp.

In addition to what Jonny says, don't think that a steel will sharpen any knife. It'll only keep a sharpened knife sharp; you'll need a whetstone (or similar) if yours has lost it's edge. Best to take it to a pro if that's the case.
I just went out and bought a knife sharpener with stones and it turns out it's this one. I'm no good with a whetstone so I wanted one that would re-grind the edge at the right angle without my input. At 8 years old even with regular use of a steel my knives were getting harder and harder to keep sharp. I was starting to doubt the 'knife for life' adage but they all seem to have come back up nicely with a new edge and I'm dead chuffed.
 
Is there any reason why these sharpeners are suggested for Global knives, and no others? Marketing?

We have only a Steel for sharpening our Henckel knives, which we are both useless at doing, so I am on the lookout for something similar to this.
Ok, as I mentioned before you need a steel that exceeds the hardness of your knife, or the knife will shave the steel bald and you don't want that. Given time using a steel, because the angle you use it at is unlikely to be exactly at the angle the knife is ground to, you will wear the ground edge down and you won't be able to get a nice edge with the steel any more. You'll then need to regrind it with a stone, which may be the stage where you have got to with a steel.

The thing to remember here is any whetstone method restores the shape of the ground edge but over-use will wear the blade down prematurely. Use a steel most of the time and only use the stone when you have to.

I wondered if the 'recommended for Global' thing was something to do with the angle but in the instructions it says that other knives can be used but may need more passes than Global blades do.

Is it worth getting a whetstone? Ive got 3 global knives that I regularly sharpen with the global ceramic "steel" If so which one would you recommend?
The thing to remember with a whetstone is you have to be able to grind the edge at a very precise angle which either takes a lot of practice or you need a guide. I decided to go for a system that already sets the angle, hence the MinoSharp block is quite good for me.
 
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