Could something be wrong temps high when overclocking

[2013]

I was wondering if something could be wrong, im watercooling with a custom loop, but my temps are 32c-42c on stock clock

when i overclock by only 200mhz temps go upto 58c

 

[2013]

parts in my sig, 1.38v
watercooling parts, black ice tri rad, ek 4.0 pump, ek supreme waterblock first gen, phobiya balancer

 

[2013]

Noctua fans
cpu block http://www.overclock3d.net/gfx/articles/2007/12/09113709683l.jpg
voltage on auto

 

[2013]

could the thermal paste be a issue too much or too little?
also im using CPUID HWMonitor to check the temps

 

[2013]

 

[2013]

i've removed and re applied the thermal paste. still hitting 50c running prime95 on stock clock

 

[2013]

Take the auto voltage off and set it manually. It also looks like you're using the block inlet as an outlet and the outlet as an inlet.

Neither of these really explain the high temps, though it wont hurt to fix them.

ok what should i set the voltage too ?
also does it matter, the block inlet as an outlet and the outlet as an inlet. or would it be west if i correct this ?

I dont really want to risk a leak changing them around

 

[2013]

Ok, i had to take it all apart too fix the fitting issue but now switched them around, ive also added new thermal paste again, flushed and re filled it. but im still hitting 50c

 

[2013]

the only thing thats should be on the inside is the small metal plate, I did check the block before fitting, the only think i can see that could be the issue is the plate moving.

 

[2013]

id say it was the voltage being bumped up with it being set to auto. for reference my 8320 is oc'd to 4.4ghz @ 1.320v

What are the default settings ?

 

[2013]

Thanks Guys,
I've re done everything now, check the block, sorted the fittings, set everything as default in bios, emptied and refilled the loop, added new thermal paste.

running CPUID HWMonitor to check temps im getting starting temp of 32c
Ive now re run prime95 and getting a temp of 45c better then before but im assuming it should be better.

 

[2013]

Ok thats fine but what should the temps have been, what would a after market heatsink or a corsair H100i get,

 

[2013]

OK, would it still be safe to overclock

 

[2013]

You have plenty of safe overclocking room. I would let it not go past 60 degrees under normal use for extended periods of time. This is not 60 degrees under prime but under a few hours of gaming, if that's what you do with your rig.

1.45 would be enough voltage for you to hit a substantial overclock, while keeping sensible temps i would imagine. Turn off turbo and auto voltage though. Auto usually overestimates the voltage you need and turbo may clock your CPU speed past stable limits after you set an overclock. I use to run my 8150 set up at 1.5V 24/7 without issue, though that chip was golden (bash BD all you want but this specific chip beat the vast majority of the PDs i have clocked and i have clocked many!).

If you are after a modest quick clock, try x22 multiplier at 1.4V. If that is stable, drop the voltage and see how low you can go before the chip disagrees. If it is not stable, bump the voltage. I have seen some people get away with 1.35 for x22 and some needing 1.44, its mostly chip and cooling dependent. Pray to the silicon god!

If you want to hit higher clocks and are willing to spend time clocking, i would start off with the bus rather than multiplier. Turn memory down to its lowest multiplier to minimize memory errors while finding your clock. Turn turbo, CnQ and simialr features off and set voltage to manual. Then start upping the bus bit by bit, upping voltage when you need it and stability testing using gaming if your a gamer. It would surprise me to see a 8320, which is sufficiently cooled, to not be able to hit 4.7Ghz at the least by using this method. When the bus clocking is done, you can turn emmory multiplier up to the nearest frequency it is rated at. If you start to get memory errors, send a voltage bump tot he CPU/nb or turn the memory down a notch to see if it helps. After that is all done and you still want more clocks, play with the multiplier adjusting bus up and down, all the best clocks on fx chips are usually done by changing both multi and bus whether it is going up or going down.

could you give me some more Info on the bus ?

I was thinking of starting off playing with the multiplier and voltage, vecause im still new to overclocking once i have a better idea I could go a step further.

 

[2013]

Thanks.

 

[2013]

I will double check, if there is a kink how do i remove it ?

 

[2013]

Might just be an optical illusion, but the tubing at the top looks quite kinked. That will obviously cause problems with the flow, although not to the extent it would massively increase temps I wouldn't think.

Thanks, there was a small kink and it has helped a bit.

 

[2013]

Either longer tubing, or angled fittings.

Or if you don't want to redo your loop again: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/search_results.php?keywords=smartcoil&_=1399578454848

Tbh though, you're using quite an old waterblock, which is most likely why your temps are around that of some of the newer CLCs. Each generation block improved temps by a few degrees.. Add up all of the generations behind you are and the difference is quite substantial.

Thanks, I have managed to fix the kink using a tie-wrap.
both the rad and block are a few years old, Im looking out for deals on a new block, any suggestions ?

 

[2013]

Ive, overclocked to 4ghz leaving voltage on auto, noermal usage temps are 34c with prime95 temps are 50c max im going to try and set the the voltage to manual and reduce it below the currant voltage

 

[2013]

That is normal, voltage drops under load. Use LLC or just increase the manual voltage to even it out. Dont use the same as auto, as it is normally too high.

If you read some of the guides, you can familiarize yourself more with the settings.

Thanks ill have a better look at the 83xx overlock forum