lINK TO PHOTOS SO i just went to build my pc . Worked great all turned on okay but THE CPU overheat light came on and in bios it sitting at 89c . The fans are spinning including the one on the block AIO arctic Freezer Air II 420 however no joy. Ihave tried repasting it and check its connected tight no joy. Any help would be appreicated . I cant feel the pump tupes vibrating either. Dont know if thats relevant
CPU OVERHEATING IN BOIS
- Thread starter hellgreen
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Soldato
6 years I have one, you checked the mount to see if thermal paste is OK, also check the backplate.
i cant feel mine vibrating..
i assume you got it new?
and i assume it plugged into a fan header? not pump
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Either pump or CPU header will do.
For AIOs like the AF which merge the fans and pump on a single connector, better use CPU. For other AIOs which have one connector for pump and one for fans, better use the designated one.
Also worth checking in BIOS if the header is set to max, at least for initial testing. Some motherboards set first parameter at 20% PWM which is very low for an AIO. I always set manually, PWM as 50% 70C, 60% 75C, 70% 80C and 100% 85C. The AF will run the pump at 100% at any PWM over 40%, if I’m not mistaken. You’ll be basically setting the fan curve.
Also worth checking if your AIO was/wasn’t affected by the recall from AF which was reported by GamerNexus some time ago.
For AIOs like the AF which merge the fans and pump on a single connector, better use CPU. For other AIOs which have one connector for pump and one for fans, better use the designated one.
Also worth checking in BIOS if the header is set to max, at least for initial testing. Some motherboards set first parameter at 20% PWM which is very low for an AIO. I always set manually, PWM as 50% 70C, 60% 75C, 70% 80C and 100% 85C. The AF will run the pump at 100% at any PWM over 40%, if I’m not mistaken. You’ll be basically setting the fan curve.
Also worth checking if your AIO was/wasn’t affected by the recall from AF which was reported by GamerNexus some time ago.
I was checking the photos with a bit more “love” and would like to confirm if any capacitor near the CPU is actually interfering with the waterblock to achieve proper contact. I remember some posts in the past about few motherboard’s layout issues.
Not that a faulty pump would work but just another thing to check when you get a working unit.
As suggested above, for most CPUs, under normal use, a good aircooler will do and without headaches. As long airflow is good and you don’t push a power-hungry CPU 100% 24/7, a Thermalright Peerless Assassin is an excellent, and reasonably priced, option.
I’m using the EK AIO, as the Arctic was out of stock everywhere and would be an issue regarding clearance, even more when paired to T30s. Is virtually silent, but using an AIO, there’s a shelf life. And if the pump goes, there’s no other fix if not replacement.
Not that a faulty pump would work but just another thing to check when you get a working unit.
As suggested above, for most CPUs, under normal use, a good aircooler will do and without headaches. As long airflow is good and you don’t push a power-hungry CPU 100% 24/7, a Thermalright Peerless Assassin is an excellent, and reasonably priced, option.
I’m using the EK AIO, as the Arctic was out of stock everywhere and would be an issue regarding clearance, even more when paired to T30s. Is virtually silent, but using an AIO, there’s a shelf life. And if the pump goes, there’s no other fix if not replacement.
Soldato
I keep a bequest dark rock pro as a spare incase my aio packs up atleast I can carry on after switching over