CVT Aygo issues

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25 Jan 2013
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304
Hi all

I have a Toyota Aygo with what I believe is CVT transmission (I can put it in automatic but also switch to a manual + and - mode). For the last 6/7 months or so, it's started to become very jerky/kangaroo like when you're first moving off, much like you'd get in a manual if you were doing something funky with the clutch. This jerky/kangaroo movement is apparent in first and reverse (it will jerk and lurch forward a few times before eventually moving smoothly). Additionally, when it's behaving like this, the transition from first to second gear can be quite heavy/jerky too.

The issue only seems to happen if the car has had a chance to cool down; once it's been going for a while, there aren't any issues with this moving off smoothly.

The car has done 55,000 miles and as far as I know, has never had any work done on the auto clutch.

Do I need to start worrying about this? I do know automatics can be very expensive to repair when clutches start to go. I'm coming up to exactly 2 years of ownership and all my tax/insurance are due so if I should get rid of it, it's a good time to do so.

Many thanks for any thought.

#29.
 
Yeah ditch it, trade it in and make sure its warm when they look at it in case of the unlikely event where they move it

Most parts for the aygo are dirt cheap but diagnosing the problem with the box could run you up a bit of a bill, plus I don't think there will be that many good used boxes about
 
The clutches changed to 190mm from 180mm later in 2008, not 100% if the autos have the same clutch as I have a manual.
 
The clutches changed to 190mm from 180mm later in 2008, not 100% if the autos have the same clutch as I have a manual.

This. Our Aygo is a 2007 manual and the clutch is needing replacing on ours (I don't think it's even got 50k on it and I have heard of a clutch needing replacing at 18k). One of the most common problems with Aygos, aside from leaking, is the clutch. Most people replaced early ones with the 190mm unit from the Yaris, before Toyota made the switch themselves to the 190mm unit after the first face lift, which was 2009.
 
I have a bit of experience with CVT drives from my days as a Volvo mechanic. I don't know anything about the Toyota set up however.

When the CVT started jerking in the Volvo's it was often a sign the drive belts between the pulleys or cones were starting to wear. The belts use to be rubber but I believe are some kind of metal in modern cars.

I am not sure if they are serviceable now or if the unit is sealed for life. Other things it could be is a gradual break down of the secondary cones.
 
This. Our Aygo is a 2007 manual and the clutch is needing replacing on ours (I don't think it's even got 50k on it and I have heard of a clutch needing replacing at 18k). One of the most common problems with Aygos, aside from leaking, is the clutch. Most people replaced early ones with the 190mm unit from the Yaris, before Toyota made the switch themselves to the 190mm unit after the first face lift, which was 2009.

£100 clutch from c1oc.co.uk and local garage fitted for £150, job done :) mine died at 40k just waiting for the water pump die but its been fine in the time I've owned it, the only 2 things that really go wrong on pre 2008 aygo/107/c1s
 
Not familiar with these boxes, when was the last time the fluid was changed?

It's basically a manual gearbox and clutch with motors to do the gear selection and clutch actuation. It's not a slush box with a torque converter.

Smart use a similar system in their cars, and jerky operation when pulling off is usualy down to a problem with the clutch actuator, which sometimes gets a bit sticky. The Smart system also requires calibration for the control unit to learn where the bite point is, not sure if the Toyota does this or not but maybe worth talking to a dealer or specialist.
 
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