• Competitor rules

    Please remember that any mention of competitors, hinting at competitors or offering to provide details of competitors will result in an account suspension. The full rules can be found under the 'Terms and Rules' link in the bottom right corner of your screen. Just don't mention competitors in any way, shape or form and you'll be OK.

Delidding my 8700K, how to glue HSF back on?

I depends , i don't bother bonding the lid back on and just use the socket to hold the heat spreader in place. So in reality and unless you need to rma the cpu there is no need to bond the lid back on.

The main reason i say this is while all the liquid metals are very good conductors how long they last is debatable , i have used liquid pro, ultra and the thermal grizzly stuff and had very mixed results , my 4970k requires re doing every year or so , the liquid metal tends to dry out and turn to a flaky alloy along with obviously degrading thermals, yet on my gpu its been fine and was still liquid the last time i cleaned the block. I made the mistake once of using it between a 5960x and a nickel monoblock, it alloyed with the heatspreader and destroyed the surface completely requiring me to lap the cpu.

If you must just use standard automotive Silicone black (loctite 5910/5940).
 
darket said:
I depends , i don't bother bonding the lid back on and just use the socket to hold the heat spreader in place. So in reality and unless you need to rma the cpu there is no need to bond the lid back on.

The main reason i say this is while all the liquid metals are very good conductors how long they last is debatable , i have used liquid pro, ultra and the thermal grizzly stuff and had very mixed results , my 4970k requires re doing every year or so , the liquid metal tends to dry out and turn to a flaky alloy along with obviously degrading thermals, yet on my gpu its been fine and was still liquid the last time i cleaned the block. I made the mistake once of using it between a 5960x and a nickel monoblock, it alloyed with the heatspreader and destroyed the surface completely requiring me to lap the cpu.

If you must just use standard automotive Silicone black (loctite 5910/5940).
Click to expand...

Now that you mention it I have noticed a slight rise in my CPU temps. My 8700K is currently overclocked to 5100MHz @ 1.345v LLC6, I've had it since release and I used the Ultra liquid metal stuff. It idles between 20-25c and on full load it's between 65-75c depending on ambient temps. I remember when I first got it, it used to idle in the teens, now it doesn't. Maybe it's a good time not only to re-apply the thermal paste but to de-lid it too in the process.

What do u use to remove the liquid metal paste? I've heard it's got to be alcohol based remover is this true?

And is it a good idea to get a de-lidding tool like this: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/der8auer-delid-die-mate-2-hs-003-dr.html

EDIT: The reason why I want to glue the heat spreader back on is for resale as I'm planning on upgrading to the 9900K in the near future.
 
@evo4ever86 is not need to glue back the cover, however shall you want to do so, use tiny drop of superglue at the 4 corners.

Regarding your high temps, did you applied the liquid metal on both sides? Have you removed the glue residuals on both sides?

FYI HSF is the cooler (heatsink fan) what you referring to is the IHS (integrated heat spreader)
 
Last edited:
Panos said:
@evo4ever86 is not need to glue back the cover, however shall you want to do so, use tiny drop of superglue at the 4 corners.

Regarding your high temps, did you applied the liquid metal on both sides? Have you removed the glue residuals on both sides?

FYI HSF is the cooler (heatsink fan) what you referring to is the IHS (integrated heat spreader)
Click to expand...

I'm referring to the IHS, not the HSF, I got mixed up lol. I use an AIO cooler, I've got the Corsair H115i 280mm Extreme Performance.

So how do I clean off liquid metal paste?
 
Last edited:
Use a very thin layer of gasket maker, the Loctite mentioned above works well. I even used it as a insulator for the internal test pins instead of nail polish and it's fine (also easier to get off if needed). Never use any type of glue, stick with gasket maker.

evo4ever86 said:
So how do I clean off liquid metal paste?
Click to expand...

Isopropyl alcohol should do the trick.
 
Bugbait said:
True but it's not like gasket maker is hard to de-lid. Far, far easier then the original seal from Intel and you'd already have the tool anyway.
Click to expand...

Thats true too. I've never resealed any of mine. If im selling them on I ask the buyer whether they want it sealed or not etc. :)
 
Thanks for the replies guys it's much appreciated!

I think I'll leave re-sealing the heat spreader until I resell which won't be for a while anyway.
 
Bugbait said:
Use a very thin layer of gasket maker, the Loctite mentioned above works well. I even used it as a insulator for the internal test pins instead of nail polish and it's fine (also easier to get off if needed). Never use any type of glue, stick with gasket maker.

Isopropyl alcohol should do the trick.
Click to expand...

I've not yet been able to clean liquid metal off either the CPU or cooler. Above didnt work. Akasa cleaner didnt work. It just stains both parts even when I scrub it religiously. Tried leaving it on for a few minutes to. Admittedly it is still smooth it just makes the copper or whatever silvery black. Sometimes I wish I hadnt used it.

I didnt bother gluing mine just use the cpu holder on the motherboard to keep it in place. I did have liquid under and above before but since getting a new motherboard just left the liquid underneath and grizzly on top. I also coated it in nail polish inside just in case. I think maybe in the summer I`ll replace the liquid metal with grizzly. Delidded it with a 3d printed one off the bay for a couple of quid. Worked a treat.
 
Have never re sealed my 7700k after delidding and never needed to. The pressure from the cooler will keep the lid in place, allows for any minor adjustments that may be required, Also like to replace my liquid metal after a year or so and makes this job a little easier.
 
I wouldn’t use superglue just in case it pulls some of the pcb off if you delid again.

I used plumbers silicon tape. Just a thin layer along each edge. This doesn’t seal it back on permanently but stops the ‘skidding’ of metal on metal and once clamped it does require a little effort to delid again so it does ‘bond’ a little.
 
Cheers guys. I've gone against replacing my 8700K with a 9900K so I won't be resealing it back on.

EDIT: Tell you what tho I'm getting 5100MHz without delidding with decent temps which is really good imo. I'll try and push to 5300MHz delidded lol. I think ive hit the silicone lottery with this 8700K!

Temps: 20c idle, 50-65c full load @ 1.345v LLC5
 
amzoun95 said:
Delidding can greatly improve your temps but be aware its a very delicate and risky procedure- you can easily destroy your cpu if not done properly so be confident in your skills before trying out.
As far as the kraken x62 goes I'm positive the contact plate is copper- the only aluminium I can think of would be the rad itself.
Click to expand...
On a 8700k it is much easier than people think. If you have a delid tool not much can go wrong
 
Only mildly dsappointed that no long time forum member suggeted mustard. (please be very aware that mustard is only suitable for recovering full hair growth and not for any other purposes at all, incuding human consumption).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom