Diagnosing faults help

Charge it up from the mains over night.
Start the car in the morning.
Check the voltage of the battery while the car is running (you should be around 14.2) just to check the alternator is charging the battery properly.
Next thing to do would be a proper "drop test"
Basically this is a tool that puts a high amp load across the terminals and you check the voltage after 10 seconds of being under load. Anything under 9.6v and it is FUBAR.
 
Took it to a local specialist after I called in to chat with them and it turned out the chairman of the local district football team owns the shop.

They did a load test on the battery with a huge piece of kit and the voltage was still low. When they tested it in the car with it running the multimeter showed it at 10v after I'd had it running for a couple of hours.

Because I knew him the dude at Valley Batteries did the swap for £40 fitted.
 
Sounds like you're sorted now so this advice is pretty much redundant...

There isn't an issue with disconnecting the jump leads whilst the cars are running, there's just a certain order you need to do it in. It should say in the manual (iirc it's the reverse order to the order in which they should have been connected).
 
Sounds like you're sorted now so this advice is pretty much redundant...

There isn't an issue with disconnecting the jump leads whilst the cars are running, there's just a certain order you need to do it in. It should say in the manual (iirc it's the reverse order to the order in which they should have been connected).

and that's only to do with prevention of shorting the cables on anything.
Nowt to do with protecting the vehicles circuits/ECU
 
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