Difference in bike?

Man of Honour
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Hi, thinking about purchasing either the Cannondale Caad9 Tiagra Compact or the Cannondale Caad9 Tiagra Triple 2008 Road Bike, both are the same price. Can somebody explain the difference and which one they would go for? I realise it has something to do with the crankset, but this means nothing to me.
 
I can't find the Tiagra Compact on the Cannondale website but the Triple gives you a triple chainring on the front so a wider choice of gears and I'd assume the other gives you a double if it is anything like the other Compacts in the range. You should save a little bit of weight with the Compact but you won't have the 'granny' ring so it probably won't be won't quite as easy on hills.

Have you done much biking before? These are both quite high end bikes and are likely to be overkill for you if you haven't.
 
No haven't done a lot before but am serious about getting involved so I want a decent bike. I plan on cycling at leat 3 times a week and to build up my distance. Which would you opt for ?
 
I think I'd go for the Triple, partly because the specification looks identical and partly because you aren't someone who has cycled much yet so it would seem sensible to have the option of a 'granny' ring to help on steep hills even if you don't use it that often.
 
You're paying for the Cannondale name, if you're not fussed you can get a better equipped bike from a "lesser" brand. Also look for last year models to save even more money, some usually 25% even 33%

£900 for a Tiagra equipped bike is pretty expensive, blame cannondale badge for that
 
£900 for a Tiagra equipped bike is pretty expensive, blame cannondale badge for that

Both are £700 in the links above but I take the point about the Cannondale badge being the main cost. I suppose what I should have said to start with is to go into the local bike store and try out a few.
 
When I first started cycling I had a 52/42 chain ring set up and that was fine for most hills.
I only wanted something smaller on the really step hills and the 34 of the compact would have been perfect. I now ride a mountain bike and find I never use the small ring as it really is too low for the road and I'd suggest that the 34 ring will give you gears that are low enough for any hill.
 
I now ride a mountain bike and find I never use the small ring as it really is too low for the road

MTB have tiny front cogs, large rear cogs so it'll still be different ratios to that of a road bike.

My two roadie's are triples it's useful having the granny ring. Most of the time I use middle front but sometimes do use the small front cog.
 
I run 53/39 with a 12-25 cassette on the back.
Can get all the way to work easily just using the 39 front ring.
Feels weird, but its helping with me getting used to spinning rather than grinding.
 
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Big consideration for me is where you live. If you are likely to be riding around the Lake District then probably the Triple. Bear in mind though that a Compact is not the same as a Double. I rode a 105 equipped compact flat bar around Scotland fully laden last year and while I was at the extreme end of the gears I never actually ran out. This meant that last year when I bought a proper Road Bike I opted for a compact on my Bianchi.

I do like Cannondales though. I had a carbon Synapse on trial and it was a lovely bike, and I don't really adhere to everyones thinking that you should buy a non-brand to maximise what you get. There is a reason why some brands are able to charge a premium, and this happens in other areas like cars and electronics. Personally if you are spending a lot of money then you want something that you love.

I also think that choosing a bike on price alone on the internet may be a mistake. Find a local shop with a reputation for road bikes. They will be able to help you choose an appropriate bike, you can be cheeky with them and tell them that you have seen the same bike online cheaper, if you are new to road biking then you may need their help in the future.
 
I hope that you aren't crossing though!

lost me there. think a day in sun watching my lad's sports day hasnt helped.
Does annoy me that the chain rubs on the front mech when on the bottom couple of gears.
Riding to work and back on the 39t is a result from being ramp tested and having a training plan to follow. I was quicker home sticking to the 39t and managed to average over 85rpm for the 14 miles.
Hit 110rpm on one of the downhills, poor legs didnt know what hit em!
 
You just need to adjust the barrel twist thing on the cable run, or adjust the end stop make sure the chain doesn't plop off the rung.
 
lost me there. think a day in sun watching my lad's sports day hasnt helped.
Does annoy me that the chain rubs on the front mech when on the bottom couple of gears.
Riding to work and back on the 39t is a result from being ramp tested and having a training plan to follow. I was quicker home sticking to the 39t and managed to average over 85rpm for the 14 miles.
Hit 110rpm on one of the downhills, poor legs didnt know what hit em!

Crossing is where you are using the wrong gears and the chain is 'crossed', Small front to small rear and Large to large. You should avoid using these gears as they cause excessive wear to the chain and chainset and can over-stress the rear dérailleur.

Personally I try to avoid the last 2 on either ring, but I'm sure that someone else will have other advice.
 
Crossing is where you are using the wrong gears and the chain is 'crossed', Small front to small rear and Large to large. You should avoid using these gears as they cause excessive wear to the chain and chainset and can over-stress the rear dérailleur.

Personally I try to avoid the last 2 on either ring, but I'm sure that someone else will have other advice.


aha, now im with you. Tend not to hit the 12t when im on the granny ring any way, too much noise from the chain on the front mech and if i do get onto that gear, i try to make sure im off it as soon as i start to put any load on it. found out from my old MTB days how much hassle it causes.
 
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