DIY help

Colbaker · 6 Sep 2011 at 12:59

Hi all,

I am looking at putting a toiler downstairs but to do this i will need to knock out an old pantry which is brick and has a large concrete slab in the middle. How would i go about doing this, Is it likely to be a load bearing wall?
It is not positions in the middle of the house or anything, it is position right next to the back door in the kitchen.

Here is a paint floorplan showing the pantry

DBT85 · 6 Sep 2011 at 13:03

Anyone giving you any advice or a "yes/no" on the load bearing from that information you have given is not worth listening to.

Get a couple if images up and even a paint diagram of your floor plan and its possible we might be able to offer some advice without risking your house collapsing on your head.

SickAsAParrot · 6 Sep 2011 at 13:16

Have a look under the floorboards above it, I did the same job on our previous house and the joists weren't even resting on the bricks. The concrete slab was another matter, it took quite a few blows with a hella large sledge hammer to shift it.

ci_newman · 6 Sep 2011 at 13:35

I'm unsure on the laws since it's not a new build however I was under the impression that where appropriate all toilets must have at least TWO doors separating them from a kitchen area.

And get professional advice on whether that is a load-bearing wall. No one sitting at their PC can tell you that.

DBT85 · 6 Sep 2011 at 13:38

If I've read that right then you want to knock down the walls above and to the left of the word "pantry". Neither should be load bearing and both will probably be made of breeze.

Not sure about having a toilet in the kitchen though.

neil3k · 6 Sep 2011 at 14:11

you need 2 doors between a toilet and a kitchen

C.R.A.Z.Y · 6 Sep 2011 at 14:18

neil3k said:
you need 2 doors between a toilet and a kitchen

Wrong!

Building Regs now specify just a closable door between kitchen and bathroom/wc

Covered by requirement G1.2

/16th Ed. Sparky

Colbaker · 6 Sep 2011 at 14:33

C.R.A.Z.Y said:
Wrong!

Building Regs now specify just a closable door between kitchen and bathroom/wc

Covered by requirement G1.2

/16th Ed. Sparky

Did not know this but it may change my plans, I should have expanded on my full plans, I was going to add a partition wall and another door just above the now PANTRY but going to be Toilet and have that area as a sort of toilet with washing machine/tumble dryer and dishwasher opposite.

neil3k · 6 Sep 2011 at 14:34

C.R.A.Z.Y said:
Wrong!

Building Regs now specify just a closable door between kitchen and bathroom/wc

Covered by requirement G1.2

/16th Ed. Sparky

fair enough

but do you really want a toilet opening onto the kitchen ?

C.R.A.Z.Y · 6 Sep 2011 at 15:25

neil3k said:
fair enough

but do you really want a toilet opening onto the kitchen ?

Personally not really as I'm a bit of a clean freak, however depending on the size/layout and also the distance from WC to kitchen 1 door can be enough in some situations imho.

Tribune · 6 Sep 2011 at 15:29

It might be off putting to others if/when you come to sell. It's not something you would normally see is it?

jamief · 6 Sep 2011 at 15:37

THe only way to tell for certain if the wall is loadbearing is by lifting the boards upstairs to see if the joists rest on it. It *probably* isn't but you must check.

DBT85 · 6 Sep 2011 at 15:45

Tribune said:
It might be off putting to others if/when you come to sell. It's not something you would normally see is it?

A lot of older houses have toilets next to the kitchen. Every house in my mum and dads street (90) and all those around it have bathrooms on the ground floor backing on to the kitchen. A few have moved it upstairs but most haven't.

They were all built in 1895 ish though. Still sell for 220 -250k though.

drunkenmaster · 6 Sep 2011 at 15:59

Colbaker said:
Did not know this but it may change my plans, I should have expanded on my full plans, I was going to add a partition wall and another door just above the now PANTRY but going to be Toilet and have that area as a sort of toilet with washing machine/tumble dryer and dishwasher opposite.

Did you mean cutting the length of cabinets on the left hand wall there, putting a new wall from the top of pantry across to the outside wall on the left, and having that as a whole separate area, then, thats not a half bad idea. Loads of people do that, though in our road it tends to be kitchen/breakfast room and a small extension for a toilet + laundry room, infact almost everyone down the street has done that. Adding a separate small room disconnects the bathroom further which is definately the right move if you were going to have a toilet in there aswell.

Theres nothing wrong with getting a few builders in for quotes, you might find its cheaper than you think to get someone to do it, at worst they should give you an idea whats possible and let you know if its load bearing.

Also, ask neighbours, its almost certain someone else with an identical house has done exactly what you want to do, ask to have a look, ask if there are any problems, etc, etc.

ristac · 6 Sep 2011 at 16:50

Save money and just use the sink

LOAM · 6 Sep 2011 at 17:55

ci_newman said:
I'm unsure on the laws since it's not a new build however I was under the impression that where appropriate all toilets must have at least TWO doors separating them from a kitchen area.

And get professional advice on whether that is a load-bearing wall. No one sitting at their PC can tell you that.

You just need mechanical ventilation, no longer need lobbies.

Oops, thread read failure

londonbairn · 6 Sep 2011 at 18:36

Make sure title deeds/leasehold don't have a clause that makes you do it "properly" or require permission, in case you breach any covenants. I have a share of freehold flat, but the lease specified I needed to get permission from our managing agent (we're a residents managing agency anyway), and he wanted me to get a structural survey done.

Hyburnate · 6 Sep 2011 at 18:38

Get a free quote of a builder and ask him what would be his plan of action?

teejay73 · 6 Sep 2011 at 19:48

As many have said, we cant give you a direct answer on whether you are removing a load bearing wall, You will be better advised to either get a Builder in or a structual engineer to determine if it is load bearing or not, All exterior walls are load bearing, that is a given.

Also as a guide, If a wall runs parallel to the joists, it is most likely not a load bearing wall. If a wall is perpendicular to the joists it may be a load bearing wall. Finally, if two joists join above a wall, it's usually a load bearing wall.

Hope this helps.