DIY Radiator .
- Thread starter humax
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- 17 Feb 2006
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Pipe
Looks like 1/2 inch O/D Pipe
Looks like 1/2 inch O/D Pipe
Rough equivalent of a 120.1 format radiator... it's fully aluminium construction with internal turbulators. Won't run passive. Stands as much chance running passive as any other designed-for-pc 120.1 radiator.
It'll work, but the turbulators will reduce flow and the aluminium will end up eaten alive if you don't run the correct ratio of anticorrosive additive.
S'an OEM oil intercooler used in custom cars etc.
It'll work, but the turbulators will reduce flow and the aluminium will end up eaten alive if you don't run the correct ratio of anticorrosive additive.
S'an OEM oil intercooler used in custom cars etc.
Setrab, made in Sweden, is the number one supplier of oil coolers and heat exchangers to the professional racing industry and are OEM suppliers to manufacturers such as Rolls Royce and Ferrari. They are simply the best coolers available,very reliable, lightweight, efficient and offer low pressure drop. All models are suitable for engine oil, transmission or differential cooling.
Standard design coolers use shallow tubes, internal turbulators and external fins. All coolers are 2" thick and are available in a variety of sizes and fitting configurations.
Rolls Royce and Ferrari
Standard design coolers use shallow tubes, internal turbulators and external fins. All coolers are 2" thick and are available in a variety of sizes and fitting configurations.
Rolls Royce and Ferrari 
Soldato
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As Marci has said its probably going to be a little restrictive and I have been told to never put Aluminium into a water loop as it will corrode. Plus you have the hassle of trying to find tubing to fit or adapters for the barbs on the rad.
Personally I would go with your Kit 1 from your other thread:
# Swiftech Storm G4 Waterblock - as designed by Cathar
# ThermoChill PA160 Radiator - as designed by Cathar
# Nexus 120mm fan - giving good airflow at 12v, and silence at 7v (12v > 7v converter included)
# Alphacool Laing DDC Ultra Pump as recommended by Cathar
# Dangerden HPDE Reservoir
# 10' 7/16"ID Masterkleer Tubing and HoseClamps
# Arctic Silver 5
# Zerex Additive (to be added to distilled water at 5% by volume)
And just add a Maze 4 low profile block for your graphics card. I am sure the PA160 will handle all that and Marci will come in here and tell you different if i am wrong.
But I would post pics of your case mate so we can see if it will all fit and advice you on where to put stuff.
Personally I would go with your Kit 1 from your other thread:
# Swiftech Storm G4 Waterblock - as designed by Cathar
# ThermoChill PA160 Radiator - as designed by Cathar
# Nexus 120mm fan - giving good airflow at 12v, and silence at 7v (12v > 7v converter included)
# Alphacool Laing DDC Ultra Pump as recommended by Cathar
# Dangerden HPDE Reservoir
# 10' 7/16"ID Masterkleer Tubing and HoseClamps
# Arctic Silver 5
# Zerex Additive (to be added to distilled water at 5% by volume)
And just add a Maze 4 low profile block for your graphics card. I am sure the PA160 will handle all that and Marci will come in here and tell you different if i am wrong.
But I would post pics of your case mate so we can see if it will all fit and advice you on where to put stuff.
bugger just when i had the Rolls Royce and Ferrari of rads Design requirements for an automotive rad and design requirements for a PC rad are worlds apart. You'll never see an aluminium PC Rad proclaimed as the Ferrari / Rolls of the scene...
It means that that rad would slow down the total flowrate thru-out your loop in comparison to (for instance) a PA120.1.
It means that that rad would slow down the total flowrate thru-out your loop in comparison to (for instance) a PA120.1.