Diy + Woodwork + Book case = Help

Soldato
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Looking for some book cases as our current ones are cheapo sagging ones which are made out of fake type wood stuff any hooo. Looking to make one, now here are the questions..

What sort of wood would be good for a tall (2m) Book Case?

How thick should the wood be 1cm or 2cm?

How would I cut out groves to slide the shelves into (including the back so that you don't get shelf slagging?

How do i cut 45 degree cuts for the back corners?

Nails + Glue or Screws + Glue or something else?

How much and where would i get the materials from? (looking at 2m high by about 1m wide and about 50cm depth plus 5 shelves [50cmx100cm])
 
Looking for some book cases as our current ones are cheapo sagging ones which are made out of fake type wood stuff any hooo. Looking to make one, now here are the questions..

What sort of wood would be good for a tall (2m) Book Case?])

MDF, Pine - what ever you like


How thick should the wood be 1cm or 2cm??

Im no expert but i think about 15 - 20mm. Google a few plans


How would I cut out groves to slide the shelves into (including the back so that you don't get shelf slagging?

Use a router or a table saw if you have one

How do i cut 45 degree cuts for the back corners??

Mitre Saw

Nails + Glue or Screws + Glue or something else??

I would use glue and screws - hpwever nails would be more discrete

How much and where would i get the materials from? (looking at 2m high by about 1m wide and about 50cm depth plus 5 shelves [50cmx100cm])

Your local wood yard or B&Q or any other DIY Store


Have a look at this

http://www.shelvingsystem.co.uk/shelfbuilder_depth.asp

http://pages.areaguides.com/ubuild/interiorbookcase.htm
 
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I'm no expert but my choices (baring in mind that we've got all the tools).

1: I'm not sure - I would guess Pine would be a cheap and suitable option.
2: I would guess and say about 20mm looking at the book cases in my brothers room.
3: Relatively easy - either a chisel the right width, a steady hand and plenty of time, or a router, good marking skills and a bit the right size (I'm using a router on my units when I finally make them*).
4: I would guess setting the angle on a jigsaw/circular saw and using a straight edge (good bit of artificial wood for example) to help prevent wantering.
5: I would probably go for a few screws and some biscuit joints (or maybe even all biscuit joints as they would be totally hidden) - although if you do that you won't need to cut the back edges at 45 degrees.
5a: If you do use screws, you can hide them if you recess them a bit and use a set of plug cutters on some scrap to make plugs to go over the screws.

6: A decent wood merchant, or possibly being very selective at your local diy superstore if they do the wood (most B*Q/Wickes type stores seem to only support wood in two places, making it resemble wood from the banana tree).

A quick suggestion, invest in some large clamps (probably about 4, shoudn't be too expensive), and take your time when marking and setting up :)


*I've been planning on making a set of DVD units (drawers with decent full extension runners, specifically designed to take DVD's) for about 2 years - i've had the hardware for most of 18 months.
 
..jigsaw/circular saw and using a straight edge (good bit of artificial wood for example) to help prevent wantering...

Cheers I was thinking of using butt joints as they seem easier

Wantering what that? I realised about a router after I posted, do you mean clamp a piece of wood besid where you want to cut to guide the router or something else?
 
Tools to make your life easy if you havent already got them

Table Saw
Mitre Saw
Jigsaw
Router
Biscuit Cutter

Obviously dont need them and could do the same job with a handsaw and a chisel
 
This may not be what your expecting, for you information, Netgear don't make these sort of routers but Bosch do :) :D

Burnsy

Lol!

What sort of cost should/would it be for the wood ?

Got a router and can borrow a table/mitre saw (is a mitre a table one that can tilt?)
 
Yeah if the table saw blade can tilt then you wont need a dedicated mitre saw. The cost of materials obviously depends on what material you want to use. Its probably cheaper to buy the wood "rough".
 
Yeah if the table saw blade can tilt then you wont need a dedicated mitre saw. The cost of materials obviously depends on what material you want to use. Its probably cheaper to buy the wood "rough".

So the rough wood is just unsanded or would it need something else doing to it? (going to try builders mechant tomrrw)
 
That about right, its basically just wood thats cut to the dimensions you ask for and you have to sand it so to speak.
 
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Honestly, by the time you have purchased all the tools you will be spending the same as buying a bookcase anyway.

There is nothing like building your own stuff though :)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/1273111.html

A little guide on building a small bookcase, use it as a rough guide. I would also recommend you buy a couple of cheap woodworking books.

Before you even start cutting, make sure you have measurements of where it is going to go. Then sit down and design what you want including measurements. You can then plan what type of joints you want etc.

Personally, I am just getting back into woodwork after years of absence. Loved designing and building but my knowledge about treating the wood etc is very poor. However I am the sort of person that hates using screws or nails in furniture, just good joints, glue and pegs etc.

One really important tip, although it may seem obvious, remember the measure your books and leave enough room between the shelves :D

Try Yell.com and search for lumber yards in your local area.

Got a router and can borrow a table/mitre saw (is a mitre a table one that can tilt?)

yes is it is, it allows you to cut the wood at set angles, although that is not really needed for a simple bookcase. Something you may not be aware of, some mitre saws can leave a very rough edge once cut. Never try to cut down the line, instead cut slightly on the side of the waste wood and then sand down to the line.
 
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Just a thought: instead of inserting the shelves into a groove, support it with a thin strip of wood all around or several strategic places.
 
If I was doing a book case I wouldn't even think about using fixed shelves. Get yourself some shelving strips or a bit more tricky is boring a series of holes & using shelf studs.
Much easier than trying to house the shelves into the gables & you can adjust them to suit the size of your books.

Edit: Forgot about material thicknesses for you. Top/bottom/gables, I'd use 18mm. Shelves depending on span 18/25mm.
 
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